chasis protection - whats best

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Rudd,

I've not always used hammerite, but I intend to this time (when the welding is sorted and the temperature warms up). I think the two important issues are to ensure that the surface is free of crap and remember that the inside is just as important as the outside.
 
Rudd,

By inside I refer to the inside of the chassis and doors. If you can't get access then drill a hole and put a plug in it (hammerite do a 10mm plug kit) - keep spraying until it drips out.
 
Rudd,

I've not always used hammerite, but I intend to this time (when the welding is sorted and the temperature warms up). I think the two important issues are to ensure that the surface is free of crap and remember that the inside is just as important as the outside.
...well yes & no ! the inside is ALL important {outside just surface rust...pretty harmless..paint old engine oil} this is from where your ROT may appear.Cure?....flush out mud with clean water let dry & spray a mist coat of 'Dinitrol' [penetrating AND tacky] rust treatment.;)
 
so get some water in, wash out the mud, dry, spray this dinitrol (http://www.rejel.com/product/10983.aspx) which all seem to come in packs. Or are there retail outlets that sell it? and then job done? Its all about the inside. So drill holes? spray like crazy and plug it up? and clean and dry on outside, then just use engine oil or something such as. no need for hamerite etc. right?

I also read, that the chasis expands etc, so anything like hamerite which is a solid paint, would crack and maybe let water in and be infact worst?


Do you know how many different suggestions there is for keeping your chasis protected? count each reply :) TONS, and it leaves me some what confused lol
 
another point, how much of this stuff do you need to get? Ie I was going to buy a 5 litre of hamerite, as cheaper, but would I even need that much. If I were to use hamerite, instructions say two coats if rust present and I have a defender 90
 
Ah steam cleaned mine, checked fur any dodgy bits, sprayed plenty of zinc rich primer on....

chassisprimed.jpg


Got a big tin (5ltr) of hammerite Smooth, mixed it with some white spirit or whatever it says on the tin and stuck it on with the spray gun and compressor...

chassispainted.jpg


then ah diluted Waxoyl and sprayed it on anaw;)
 
alrighty, cool (seen 5 litre of hamerite at wilco £55) and a compressor at halfords for £99. Says ideal for spraying, but any advice on what type and which compressor to get. I cant imagine ill need it for anything els rather than spraying, but you never know!


link for compressor, oil free says needs no maint.

SIP Airmate TN1.5 6-0 230V Oil Free Compressor from Halfords Price £99.99


If you get 12 months out of that compressor then I'll be amazed. Personally I'd be having a look for a proper one on ebay or in your local Ad-Mag that will last you a few years.

Your chassis wont stretch, twist or flex. I've known 600bhp Tuscan race cars that have been hammorited, and even they have not had any problems with chassis flex and paint coming off. If they are ok, your 100bhp Defender will be.

Personally I'd stay clear of using old engine oil on the outside. Hammorite isn't exactly expensive and personally I'd prefer to keep oil away from my tyres as much as possable. Plus I'd have thought that oil will wash off quicker than hammoite would chip away. If you do the job once and do it properly, then you should only need to spend half a day a year each summer touching it up.

What the chap above did I reckon is the best bet, (Nice job BusterBuss).

Clean all the crap off
Flush out the inside of the rails
Fill rails / sills with waxoil and seal afterwards
Apply a couple of coats of Karust, zinc rich primer hammorite top coat, then waxoil.

Job done.
 
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Rudd, don't go paying a fortune for hammerite. Have a look on fleabay - you'll find some good deals for 5 ltr tin but it will probably not be black. If you're happy with grey or similar you could pay as little as £20. Hammerite is best sprayed with hammerite thinners which is about £10 for 2 1/2 ltrs.

Disco is spot on with the advice on buying a compressor - a good one will last you a life time.

As I said earlier, remember the inside. Have a look at the waxoyl site to get an idea about treating, plugging etc.
 
yeah I agree, I am one to buy for the future, rather than present (ie cheapy and buy again later). Weather has turned poor, so will have to wait for it to warm up so that paint can go on. Thanks about that haze, as in shops £55 is cheapest for 5 litres, but your right who cares about the colour! better get saving for that compressor. I have seen some for about £250 -£350 that look proper. Is oil free a good thing, or do they tend to be a bit poor, as I guess its done so they are easier to keep for the DIY person.
 
Rudd,

I got a sip 2 hp 50 ltr oil free one about ten years ago and it's still going strong - that was all I could afford then (£120 I think). Got the welder coming around this weekend to sort the chassis out and then just waiting for some warmer weather to get stuck into painting myself.
 
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