Chasing a Current Leak

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Been having me tea, Chaps. Thanks for all of the replies.
Ok, I've been back out with the meter
Engine off = 12.46v (lower than before)
heater plugs on = 12.30v
Starting = 10.57v (lowest value I saw flash up on the meter)
Tick over = 13.89v (lower than before)
Headlights on and fan full on = 13.64v
Constant revs = 13.64v

I know batteries can go at anytime, but it's only 2yrs old
battery terminal are nice and clean with good connections. No grease on terminals.
Haven't checked earths tonight or connections tonight. However, earth was rubbed down, clean and shiny just over two years ago. But, also might have deteriorated I suppose. I took the connections off the alternator mid January to see if it was causing the current leak. Connections seemed good.

Do those new figures add more evidence towards a particular conclusion?
 
My chassis/ battery earth gets checked and cleaned twice a year, it can cause so many issues that get normalised over time, dull lights, lazy starting etc, Also check live connections at the starter solenoid, I don't normally do this as often as I should but it's worth doing from time to time, run some sand paper or a half round file through the terminals and get them nice and bright. I think the battery might be toast but a new one won't work properly in a compromised electrical system never mind a worn out one.
 
kermit_rr said:
Don't quote me, but i thought lion batteries charged at a different voltage to regular lead acid? Whether it's the right tech for you and your vehicle is a whole different conversation
Click to expand...
I took it to mean Lion brand (I think ECP do them) rather than Li-On
 
Also I don't think you have a drain there, as above either alt or battery (or both), maybe easiest is to buy a battery locally then return it if it makes no difference?
 
nobber said:
My chassis/ battery earth gets checked and cleaned twice a year, it can cause so many issues that get normalised over time, dull lights, lazy starting etc, Also check live connections at the starter solenoid, I don't normally do this as often as I should but it's worth doing from time to time, run some sand paper or a half round file through the terminals and get them nice and bright. I think the battery might be toast but a new one won't work properly in a compromised electrical system never mind a worn out one.
Click to expand...

Cheers, nobber. I'll take them all apart and clean them up at the weekend.

kermit_rr said:
Don't quote me, but i thought lion batteries charged at a different voltage to regular lead acid? Whether it's the right tech for you and your vehicle is a whole different conversation
Click to expand...
Kev12 said:
I took it to mean Lion brand (I think ECP do them) rather than Li-On
Click to expand...
Yes, Lion Brand.
 
IMHO 13.64 volts (assuming his meter is accurate!) is not a healthy battery being charged by a healthy alternator.

I assume this is across the battery terminals. Check positive to chassis as well? Check actual voltage on the B+ (big) terminal of the aternator?
 
j_g_uk said:
IMHO 13.64 volts (assuming his meter is accurate!) is not a healthy battery being charged by a healthy alternator.

I assume this is across the battery terminals. Check positive to chassis as well? Check actual voltage on the B+ (big) terminal of the aternator?
Click to expand...
Yes, across the battery terminals.
What will positive to chassis tell me? I'll try it tomorrow.
Do I check from the B+ terminal to chassis?
 
You're trying to work out if the alternator is giving out a decent voltage or not and ruling out bad connections, bad cables etc
You should be getting around 14.4v ideally
 
j_g_uk said:
Comparing Positive to chassis would tell you if there was a fault in the battery earth lead.
Click to expand...
Ahh, that makes sense.
kermit_rr said:
You're trying to work out if the alternator is giving out a decent voltage or not and ruling out bad connections, bad cables etc
You should be getting around 14.4v ideally
Click to expand...
Presumably the B+ terminal to chassis will tell me that? If the battery is carped can that prevent 14.4v being detected at the battery terminals?
 
Al2O3 said:
Ahh, that makes sense.

Presumably the B+ terminal to chassis will tell me that? If the battery is carped can that prevent 14.4v being detected at the battery terminals?
Click to expand...

It will tell you if there is a voltage drop between alternator and battery wouldn't it?
 
Right, I've just mentioned this to the Mrs. Who, I must admit, has a memory like an elephant. She has reminded me the first battery I bought failed to hold charge straight away and I took it back and this is the replacement. Could be the local motor factors had a bad batch of batteries or the brand is poor, or something. On another note, my memory is becoming a bit of a concern! :eek:
 
Ideally..
Charge the battery off the vehicle, once it's full, leave it to rest for 24 hours then measure the voltage. 12.8v is perfect, 12.6v is ok. Under 12.4v and it's not looking good.
 
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