Central locking problem

Hi I’m new to this forum but really hoping someone can help....
I have a freelander 1 TD4 2001 it used to belong to my Dad who had a problem with it starting, after his local garage did several different things to it, it turned out to be the cam position sensor, one of the things the garage did was mess about with the central locking which now will only work with the fob if you try opening the doors with the key it does nothing! Has anyone any idea whatthey may have done to stop the keyworking..? I can’t ask my dad as he’s now in ahome with Alzheimers and the garage which did the work/bodge is no longer there.Thank you
Ps sorry for the long post.

The key should open the driver's door, even if the battery is flat. Turning the key actually moves a mechanical linkage to unlock the door. At the same time, a switch in the lock assembly closes which triggers the Central Control Unit (CCU) to remove the deadlocks or completely unlock the other doors, depending on the programming. So if turning the door key does nothing. It suggests that the linkage has become detached from the lock assembly.

Nodge68 said:

The key should open the driver's door, even if the battery is flat. Turning the key actually moves a mechanical linkage to unlock the door. At the same time, a switch in the lock assembly closes which triggers the Central Control Unit (CCU) to remove the deadlocks or completely unlock the other doors, depending on the programming. So if turning the door key does nothing. It suggests that the linkage has become detached from the lock assembly.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply, do you know if it’s a simple thing to fix (if it is this) is it something I can do myself or is it a garage job?

Helen Lloyd said:

Thank you for your reply, do you know if it’s a simple thing to fix (if it is this) is it something I can do myself or is it a garage job?

Click to expand...

There's nothing particularly complex with the locking system. It's a tried and tested method that's been used for many years in lots of different types of vehicle.

If you are lucky whoever worked on it may have not plugged in the drivers door lock central locking connector fully, or it may have come off.
The door card has to be removed and the electrical connectors need checking.
If you search you tube for 'Freelander door card' people have uploaded videos. This is the only way to tell if you can DIY, unless you have taken one off before.

I assume your key locks/unlocks the drivers door ok.

When you press the unlock button on your fob, do all the doors unlock, or just the drivers door, and you have to press it a second time for the rest of the doors to unlock.

There a extender bar for the keylock to the main locking mechanism that can snap which will cause no end of fun. But follow the simple rules first.
1 use key fob to confirm all locks open.
2. Does the door levers inside work when pulling the button up and close down.
3. Does door handle lever open the door.
4. Does the central locking work okay console button.
The door is just a few screws and plastic poppers try to use a plastic levers for poppers. Once you have the door card off there will be a clear plastic protection screen that will need removing or slice and repair after. Now with a dainty hand feel the wires leading the plug if seated okay then behind that lock and up will be a lever bar connecting to it. If it rough it and free it snapped if it has a cross effect it not inserted properly. To replace door lock and mechanism is an expensive choice.The key is assigned to the ignition because of a chip inside the key. If the driver door lock mechanism is failed your going have to dismantle keylock handle first and unhook lever cables before removing main part. There are instructions of best way access each section in haynes and youtube plus on here. hope this helps

Devilish said:

If you are lucky whoever worked on it may have not plugged in the drivers door lock central locking connector fully, or it may have come off.
The door card has to be removed and the electrical connectors need checking.
If you search you tube for 'Freelander door card' people have uploaded videos. This is the only way to tell if you can DIY, unless you have taken one off before.

I assume your key locks/unlocks the drivers door ok.

When you press the unlock button on your fob, do all the doors unlock, or just the drivers door, and you have to press it a second time for the rest of the doors to unlock.

Click to expand...

Hi thanks for your reply...the key turns in the lock but nothing happens..!!?? When using the fob yes one press for the drivers door and a second press for the rest.

Seems to me as pointed out, the link rod that connects the handle mechanism 5 to the latch assembly 21 may well have problem, diagram below is the same type of lock, the top of 15 is the bit that pops up and down on to of the door card.16 is the rod that links the handle assembly to the latch mechanism, it is attached each end by plastic fittings that click open/closed, they are fiddly, the type of thing I like many others do by feel without looking. With luck one of these clips may be broken/open and the rod has detached.

These are the type of clips 6 and 13



This is what 14 looks like

Devilish said:

Seems to me as pointed out, the link rod that connects the handle mechanism 5 to the latch assembly 21 may well have problem, diagram below is the same type of lock, the top of 15 is the bit that pops up and down on to of the door card.16 is the rod that links the handle assembly to the latch mechanism, it is attached each end by plastic fittings that click open/closed, they are fiddly, the type of thing I like many others do by feel without looking. With luck one of these clips may be broken/open and the rod has detached.
View attachment 138908
These are the type of clips 6 and 13



This is what 14 looks like

Click to expand...

That cable and it's associated components is a FL2 problem.
The FL1 uses a different lock control assembly with more traditional rods.

Nodge68 said:

That cable and it's associated components is a FL2 problem.
The FL1 uses a different lock control assembly with more traditional rods.

Click to expand...

Thank you so much for this information, I’m going to show it to my brother in law tomorrow and hopefully he can fix it for me. Thanks again a great help!