P38A CDL issue

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Flossie

Flossie

Well-Known Member
Posts
11,048
Location
Shropshire
Just started today.
Car won't lock or unlock off the fob.
Led is flashing on it though.
Key locks and unlocks all doors BUT
The right hand rear (behind the drivers door) sill button does not Go up or down but it does "twitch" a bit like it's trying to.
Coincidence or two separate issues?
 
Flossie said:
Just started today.
Car won't lock or unlock off the fob.
Led is flashing on it though.
Key locks and unlocks all doors BUT
The right hand rear (behind the drivers door) sill button does not Go up or down but it does "twitch" a bit like it's trying to.
Coincidence or two separate issues?
Click to expand...
Not sure but it could be one issue if the lock is in an undetermined position the FOB may not operate the locks.
I have recently had s similar problem on my project car caused by the hook that goes over the lock bar sticking.
No message on the dash I suppose?
 
Datatek said:
Not sure but it could be one issue if the lock is in an undetermined position the FOB may not operate the locks.
I have recently had s similar problem on my project car caused by the hook that goes over the lock bar sticking.
No message on the dash I suppose?
Click to expand...
Nothing on the dash keith. Don't know if my nanocom will give any clues if it even covers the cdl.
 
I'll whip the door card off that rear door tomorrow and have a look see if it's not raining. I did try pulling the button up and retrying the fob and the same pushing the knob down and using the fob but no differance.
 
pwood999 said:
Yes Nanocom does show CDL, Door Ajar & Keyswitch. All in BECM Inputs menu.
Click to expand...
Ahh...yes...I remember now! Had an issue earlier in the year that I recall the fob didn't work then but using the key once or twice and pressing fob buttons got it working again. Keith suggested a sticky microswitch in the latch. I actually used the nano to check the switches at the time but all was well. Must be my age, I keep forgetting stuff. From that time earlier in the year, I don't know if the rear door knob was working up/down off the fob but I suspect it was as that's always the one I look at to check the car has locked being as its right where I'm standing once I've got out.
 
Definitely re-check the microswitches first. Then try to re-sync the key.

One copy of RAVE Owners Manual says this:
1733255596785.png


Another version of RAVE says this:
1733255703963.png

There's also a version that says to insert key in ignition & press unlock, but cannot find it !!
 
How old are the fob batteries ;). Even though the led flashes.

I have had success with the door lock method 1 as per @pwood999 and the third.
My 96 responded to the key in lock lock unlock with button presses but also key in ignition and press button.
2001 was the same.
So all though they say they changed did they?

But yours also sounds more like a lock solenoid thing for the back door.

J
 
marjon said:
How old are the fob batteries ;). Even though the led flashes.

I have had success with the door lock method 1 as per @pwood999 and the third.
My 96 responded to the key in lock lock unlock with button presses but also key in ignition and press button.
2001 was the same.
So all though they say they changed did they?

But yours also sounds more like a lock solenoid thing for the back door.

J
Click to expand...
The key in the ignition method of resync only works if the passive coil is present (MY dependent) and the EKA function in the BECM is turned on. The key in door works in those cases.
 
marjon said:
How old are the fob batteries ;). Even though the led flashes.

I have had success with the door lock method 1 as per @pwood999 and the third.
My 96 responded to the key in lock lock unlock with button presses but also key in ignition and press button.
2001 was the same.
So all though they say they changed did they?

But yours also sounds more like a lock solenoid thing for the back door.

J
Click to expand...
About 3 yrs old. No harm changing them I suppose...if I had some, which I don't.
I might be mistaken but doesn't a message appear on the dash if the fob battery's are low? 2001 my.
Just trying to pluck up the courage to go outside and fiddle, cold, foggy, damp here plus rain and wind incoming.
 
Flossie said:
About 3 yrs old. No harm changing them I suppose...if I had some, which I don't.
I might be mistaken but doesn't a message appear on the dash if the fob battery's are low? 2001 my.
Just trying to pluck up the courage to go outside and fiddle, cold, foggy, damp here plus rain and wind incoming.
Click to expand...
Yes, if the signal from the fobs is weak you get a message centre prompt.
 
20241204_094608.jpg

All the switches change state on the door ajar and right/left cdl.
Right and left key switch ? Is that key turned left and right in the drivers door lock?
If so, neither change state.
Whilst in diagnosis, ign on, engine off, the gearbox fluid cooling fan behind the lower bumper came on and off then stayed running! Fear of a flat battery and numb cold fingers I've had to abandon taking the osr door card off to look at why the button isn't moving . If I lift that button so all the buttons are up then push down the drivers button they all go down including that iffy one..
Just the iffy one doesn't come back up.
 
Keyswitch should toggle to GND when turning the key either way. CDL tells BECM if the latch is locked or unlocked.

The combination of both is what the BECM uses to figure out key direction & movement so it knows which way to spin the motors, and also for EKA entry.

Also on GEMS & Thor, contrary to popular belief disabling EKA only prevents you from entering it, but does not remove the need for it occaisionally. So on these motors yes disable immobilisation, but not EKA. Diesel BECM behaviour might be different (especially as the ECU enable/disable is different).
 
Last edited:
pwood999 said:
Keyswitch should toggle to GND when turning the key either way. CDL tells BECM if the latch is locked or unlocked.

The combination of both is what the BECM uses to figure out key direction & movement so it knows which way to spin the motors, and also for EKA entry.

Also on GEMS & Thor, contrary to popular belief disabling EKA only prevents you from entering it, but does not remove the need for it occaisionally. So on these motors yes disable immobilisation, but not EKA. Diesel BECM behaviour might be different (especially as the ECU enable/disable is different).
Click to expand...
This is weird! It's, sort of, fixed itself.
Just been out and got back, lifted the iffy osr knob and...not sure exactly what I did next...but I put the key in the lock, turned to lock, iffy osr knob went down(it wasn't before off the key) hazards flashed (I don't recall them flashing using the lock before(when the fob stopped working) and now it locks and unlocks off the fob again!
Iffy osr knob still iffy but that obviously doesn't affect the cdl.
I'll take that door card off anyway to investigate that knob.
When I just "fixed" it, I may have pressed a lock or unlock button on the fob whilst turning the key accidentally, hence syncing it but that did nothing earlier using that method.
 
I've got diesel BTW.
Query if I may.
I keep the nano lead permanently plugged in at the car end , the nano end is within reach from the drivers seat tucked up around the carpet and down the side of the passenger seat. Noticed this morning that some fluff had got up inside the pins, nowt serious and easily removed. Would be nice to have a protective cap of sorts for that , is there such a thing?
 
It's specifically not recommended to connect the car end of the Nanocom first, because you can cause issues when plugging in the 15pin connector (easy to short things). BBS says to always connect the cable to Nano first, and then plug into the diag port.

I'm considering extending the diag port to a more accessible location - maybe inside the centre cubby box.
 
OK. Just checked them switches again. Right key switch changes state to ground from 12v but left switch stays at 12v.
I do struggle to get the lead into the car end, bad back and knees don't help. Annoyingly the gearbox fan runs constantly when in diagnosis mode, that's a new thing! Pleasingly the fob is still working.
 
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