Cannot select gears, tried a bunch of stuff but can't figure this out !

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Don't know how well you can see those small cracks… So, bled the system again this morning, and there was indeed air in it. Everything was fine for about an hour then the problem came back, checked the flexible hose it wasn't ballooning but on closer inspection the rubber has gone quite soft and perished
 
It's odd, because there is no obvious fluid loss, no drips, and the reservoir appears full, so my thinking is with vibration and are use these cracks open up just enough for the system to suck in air
 
Check the adjustment on the master cylinder actuating arm. Changed master cylinder on m6 lightweight & i5 ended up being a nightmare as brand new seals failed after a few miles. Also, if the arm incorrectly adjusted then the valve that allows hydraulic fluid back into cylinder once clutch pedal released doesn’t work. You can put your foot on clutch & change gear and everything initially Ok but fluid can’t return into reservoir. Even though I measured the adjustment against old cylinder & actuating rod it took several attempts to get it satisfactory.
 
Lets hope you have the cause Danny. My issue may well be the friction plate stuck to fly but efforts did not free it including starting in first reverse or driv8ng the sod for 15 miles
 
So, may have it sorted...(touchwood!!) Replaced the flexible hose and bled the system, problem was still there, re-tightened all the joints on the hydraulic system bled it again and everything seems ok. Woo hoo!

Looking back at the whole thing I think there were several problems. The slave cylinder was wet inside so, by my understanding that was leaking fluid and or letting in air. The flexible was in poor condition which may or may not have been letting in air and it's possible also that the joints may have been allowing air ingress as well. That would explain why when we would bleed the system and everything would be fine, then half an hour later the problem would return.it would also explain why the hydraulic fluid was frothy at certain points during this process.

So while I may have annoyingly changed the gearbox for no reason I have at least put in in something with less miles on it and changed the gearbox oil at the same time.

I would say to anybody with similar problems to check the hydraulics first as they are at least the cheapest parts ( and easiest) to replace, then move on to the transmission itself from there. Ie; checking the shifter linkage, before moving onto to clutch and gearbox etc.

Many many thanks for you guys for all your your help, really appreciate it, thanks to David Ashcroft Ashcroft transmissions for his patience and invaluable advice, and thanks most of all to my mate Dave for helping me finally get this problem sorted. Hope this thread helps out somebody at a later date.

Rebz, best of luck with yours please let us know how you get on...
 
Well I tried driving the truck up the steepest hill I could find but sadly it will not free up the clutch (and then the alternator died ...again was sure I'd found and fixed the issue, had it exciting and charging typical eh? Think I'll run a new cable from switched live and wire in a volt meter and have done with the old exciter see if that sorts it), I'll have time tomorrow to swap the slave as I have the part so why not and return to my electrical dramas, namely the alternator system. I'll let you know if there is anything obvious when it's replaced.
 
Well ... the slave was a little worse for wear bit of wear and rust in cylinder towards end of travel and some nasty coloured crap came out when bleeding, but no joy clutch still engaged, guess its box out even if just to free it up so i may as well check condition and renew any and all worn items. Master seems ok though nothing untoward when bleeding through.
 
I know james :) it's not grand in there though is it, much sand paper to be needed for the fly wheel and junketh the clutch. If one will get in to 3 foot of flood water before lockdown leaves her standing this is what happens ... thanks 2020 your the best
 
@Rebz , whilst box is out replace thrust arm and bearing with HD items + slippers pads & location pin and give the whole bell housing area a thorough clean up; looks like someone's been wading without the bell housing plug in situ. Re flywheel, send to a machine shop for a light skim or use home sander to deglaze...
 
Thanks v8250. The water sort of came to us in South Wales before lock down so i wasn't prepared, but yes that is akin to wading without ze plug, still could be worse lots of people lost their motors, homes and businesses entirely in the floods.

I have the replacement HD arm etc here to swap it all out and will give it a proper clean out.
 

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