Can you "please" help?

Jay Oban · Feb 17, 2018

Rover, Freelander 2.5, year 2000.

Overheating (getting that smell of very hot anti-freeze). Top rad pipe very hot, bottom cool. The thermostat has been changed but, still the same. The strange thing is the temp gage does not show this and stays at normal (half way) but, it gets to that point after only half a mile, a bit soon for such a big engine?

The garage is not sure what is going on and wants to spend another £500+ fitting a new water pump, to see if that might fix it.

Sorry to ask but I do not want to waste this kind of money if it is not the problem.

potus · Feb 17, 2018

Welcome, a possible air lock?

90jc · Feb 17, 2018

Do you notice the temp guage drop at all when at higher speed and bigher revs such as motorway? I have all the issues you have and a temp that drops at speed then teturns to normal if i lift off. Been trying to fix it for weeks but cabt find anything wrong.

Are you 100% sure thermostat is working correct? I would leave it out and see if it still heats up so quick and if it makes any difference. Is radiator hot all over or does it have cold patches?

Colthebrummie · Feb 17, 2018

£500 for a water pump! That seems steep. I was quoted £700+ for a new a/c compressor. The problem is they use Landrovers estimates for the time to do a job and they are massively exaggerated. According to LR changing the a/c compressor is a 5 hour job.

Col

Jay Oban · Feb 17, 2018

potus said:
Welcome, a possible air lock?

Hi,
Many thanks for this. I was having the same feeling. As I know very little about cars, how would one go about fixing an air lock? After I turn the engine off and "very slowly" take off the filler cap, lots of steam and I can hear the water running back into the system.

Jay Oban · Feb 17, 2018

Colthebrummie said:
£500 for a water pump! That seems steep. I was quoted £700+ for a new a/c compressor. The problem is they use Landrovers estimates for the time to do a job and they are massively exaggerated. According to LR changing the a/c compressor is a 5 hour job.

Col

Hi, thanks for getting back to me. Yes when you say Rover they seem to put a 0 on the end.

Nandad · Feb 17, 2018

Jay Oban said:
Hi,
Many thanks for this. I was having the same feeling. As I know very little about cars, how would one go about fixing an air lock? After I turn the engine off and "very slowly" take off the filler cap, lots of steam and I can hear the water running back into the system.

Hi
Cold engine, fillercap off, check water level. Start engine. Open bleed screw -don't drop it!- close when you get bubble free. All the time watch water level.

Jay Oban · Feb 17, 2018

Nandad said:
Hi
Cold engine, fillercap off, check water level. Start engine. Open bleed screw -don't drop it!- close when you get bubble free. All the time watch water level.

Very very sorry to be so pathetic but, "bleed screw"? Thanks for taking the time and trouble.

Nodge68 · Feb 17, 2018

First things first. Is it loosing coolant?

It's absolutely normal for the KV6 to run hot and I mean hot. Normal running temperature is anywhere from 99°C to 114°C. The gauged will show normal when the coolant is between 76°C and 114°C. So you can't use the gauge for temperature monitoring, so use OBD2 data instead. And yes, they heat up fast, showing N on the gauge after a mile or so is perfectly normal. Smelling coolant after shutdown isn't uncommon either. This is often from the pressure cap venting as the coolant temp rises, once the coolant stops circulating.

Also check for cracking around the expansion tank filler neck.

Nodge68 · Feb 17, 2018

90jc said:
Are you 100% sure thermostat is working correct? I would leave it out and see if it still heats up so quick and if it makes any difference. Is radiator hot all over or does it have cold patches?

You can't leave the thermostat out, or all the coolant falls out too.

Jay Oban · Feb 17, 2018

Nodge68 said:
First things first. Is it loosing coolant?

It's absolutely normal for the KV6 to run hot and I mean hot. Normal running temperature is anywhere from 99°C to 114°C. The gauged will show normal when the coolant is between 76°C and 114°C. So you can't use the gauge for temperature monitoring, so use OBD2 data instead. And yes, they heat up fast, showing N on the gauge after a mile or so is perfectly normal. Smelling coolant after shutdown isn't uncommon either. This is often from the pressure cap venting as the coolant temp rises, once the coolant stops circulating.

Also check for cracking around the expansion tank filler neck.

Hi,
First, "THANK YOU" for your time and know how.
It has used about a pint in two weeks, but I put that down to the venting you discribe. Sorry to ask but, what is the OBD2 data? No cracks around expansion tank filler neck.
Thanks again.

Dippypud · Feb 17, 2018

Jay Oban said:
Hi,
First, "THANK YOU" for your time and know how.
It has used about a pint in two weeks, but I put that down to the venting you discribe. Sorry to ask but, what is the OBD2 data? No cracks around expansion tank filler neck.
Thanks again.

This is what Nodge68 means when he says 'cracks'...

Nodge68 · Feb 17, 2018

Jay Oban said:
Hi,
First, "THANK YOU" for your time and know how.
It has used about a pint in two weeks, but I put that down to the venting you discribe. Sorry to ask but, what is the OBD2 data? No cracks around expansion tank filler neck.
Thanks again.

Was it loosing coolant before the thermostat was changed? And why was the thermostat changed?

If the cooling system isn't bled correctly after the coolant is drained, then it can take a while to fully expel all the air.

If it continues to loose coolant, then you have a leak or more likely a creep. If the thermostat O rings are damaged when fitting, then leaks can occur. You can often see the coolant steaming off if you look in the "V" with a torch.

OBD2 is the maintenance diagnostic port for accessing engine codes and data. This is easily read these days by a basic diagnostic tool or even a Bluetooth dongle that plugs into the OBD2 port, so engine data can then be read on a smartphone or tablet loaded with a suitable app.

Jay Oban · Feb 17, 2018

Hi,
About the same amount of coolant before new stat change. I had only just got the Rover and took it to the garage to solve the over heating problem which, thanks to you, I now know is normal. If the garage did not know there was no need to change it, then I think it is safe to say they would not have bleed the coolent right.
So I think what I have been dealing with is the air expeling itself as you point out.
Thanks for the info on the port for the engine data.
And thank you for your time and good advice.
Jay

90jc · Feb 17, 2018

Nodge68 said:
You can't leave the thermostat out, or all the coolant falls out too.[/QUOTE
Im confused, remove thernostat, re fit housing and its a closed system again, just permenantly open.

Not saying your wrong btw, just curious, mabey freelanders have a strange thermostat settup? No worries though was just a thought for diagnostics. Your not thinking of radiator cap pressure relief?

Nodge68 · Feb 17, 2018

90jc said:
Im confused, remove thernostat, re fit housing and its a closed system again, just permenantly open.

Not saying your wrong btw, just curious, mabey freelanders have a strange thermostat settup? No worries though was just a thought for diagnostics. Your not thinking of radiator cap pressure relief?

You can't remove the KV6 thermostat as it's all part of the housing. If you remove the housing, there's nothing to keep the coolant in the engine.
The thermostat is sealed in the domed plastic assembly with the pipes coming out of it.

90jc said:
Your not thinking of radiator cap pressure relief?

No. I'm well aware of the difference between the thermostat and pressure cap.
I know the KV6 engine inside out.

teddywood1 · Feb 18, 2018

that looks certainly easier to get at than the td4 engine Nodge68

tlo · Feb 19, 2018

speaking of the td4 that is exactly the problem I am having when I had my thermostat replaced they used the old o ring so now I am getting a seeping of antifreeze as apposed to a leak sounds like you have the same prob . Fingers crossed it will be sorted soon

Nodge68 · Feb 20, 2018

teddywood1 said:
that looks certainly easier to get at than the td4 engine Nodge68

It's only easy to get at once you'v taken all the inlet manifolds off.

Changing a V6 thermostat is a 2 hour job.

Can you "please" help?

Jay Oban

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potus

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90jc

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Colthebrummie

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Jay Oban

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Nandad

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Dippypud

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