Buying RRC... Things to look for

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jimalmighty

jimalmighty

Member
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Location
Poole
Hi all,
I'm usually over in the Discovery section but I need some help here.
Tomorrow I am going to view a 1993 Range Rover Classic LSE, it's been owned by a couple since nearly new and it's been garaged almost all it's life so it's in immaculate condition, so my acquaintance assures me.

They've driven it at least monthly for the past 15 years but now the old gentleman has sadly passed away and his wife is looking to get rid. I can't afford it really but I've wanted one for so long that it could be an opportunity too good to let pass.

It's a 4.2L V8 petrol and I'd like to know if anyone has any tips for obvious faults that I should look for?

Thanks in advance

Jim
 
RUST, inner/outer sills. A B posts to floor in fact do a search for Classic rebuilds on here and see what to expect. If you cannot weld, walk away, if your handy with the spanners then everything else can be fixed if you have the funds.
 
Great, thanks for that.
Any blatant engine warning signs I should be aware of? My D2 is a TD5 and this is the first petrol lump I'd have owned
 
Rust - rust -rust! Check everywhere (try to take an un-biased RR enthusiast with you) & leave your rose-tinted glasses at home! Bear in mind that ,as far as I'm aware, sills for the LSE are no longer available & would have to be fabricated from multiple standard wheelbase items. Unless you are an experienced welder, or have plenty of funds to pay for the work, walk away from any but the very best vehicles. Take a bright pencil-beam torch with you & shine it down the oil filler hole - the valve gear needs to appear either golden colour or at least light brown, if it's black walk away. Chock the rear wheels, jack up a front wheel, select neutral on the transfer-box & apply the handbrake firmly - the hanging wheel should turn by hand but with considerable effort, if it won't move (other than the backlash) the VCU needs replacing - if the wheel spins easily walk away. The LSE was only made for two years (effectively a test-bed for the forthcoming P38) & this short production run may result in a shortage of model-specific spares.
 
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Look through the threads regarding air bags ( the suspension ones) and as above rust. Again the V8 is prone to the problems all the V8's have. Check coolant. Also drive the lse round a car park and find out how big it feels. That extra few inches will make a difference. Interiors, again the usual here is dropping headlining. The seats should be nice regardless of the covering. Make sure the seats work as they should. Not all the toys will work, decide which ones you need/want and make sure they do. Chasing some of these bugs will be a pain. The ride should be nice and brisk. Check for Un even wear on the tires and look up VC threads. Then all the usual mot/ car buying things to check.
 
All the above mentioned, plus look at the bottom of the rear doors where the extra 10" were welded into the standard inner doors for the extra length.
The only LSE specific parts I can remember are roof panel (and liner) rear doors, exhaust downpipe/cats, rear propshaft, rear carpet and the aforementioned sills. Never had a problem with anything else, all standard classic stuff. If the electric seats don't work, the control boxes are a nightmare of little springs and ball bearings.
This may affect your decision - https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/land_rover_rangerover_lse_auto#!tax. They're getting rarer . . .

Good luck.

Alastair
 
jimalmighty said:
Hi all,
I'm usually over in the Discovery section but I need some help here.
Tomorrow I am going to view a 1993 Range Rover Classic LSE, it's been owned by a couple since nearly new and it's been garaged almost all it's life so it's in immaculate condition, so my acquaintance assures me.

They've driven it at least monthly for the past 15 years but now the old gentleman has sadly passed away and his wife is looking to get rid. I can't afford it really but I've wanted one for so long that it could be an opportunity too good to let pass.

It's a 4.2L V8 petrol and I'd like to know if anyone has any tips for obvious faults that I should look for?

Thanks in advance

Jim
Click to expand...

Don't touch it with a barge-pole. Walk away and PM me the number. I'll make sure it is disposed where it cannot hurt you. :)
 
Grrrrrr said:
Don't touch it with a barge-pole. Walk away and PM me the number. I'll make sure it is disposed where it cannot hurt you. :)
Click to expand...
Nothing like being straight to the point Grrrr!
Perhaps the reasons behind your viewpoint would be helpful to the OP?
 
Hi all,
well, today i finally got round to seeing the classic and it was good.
The bodywork is in very good condition, there is about £300 worth of repair to be done to the front wing and she's cracked the sidelight cluster but apart form that it's tight. All joints between the steel and ally skins are rust free too and i removed the indicator and poked a torch down the inside and all looks jolly.
Rust wise it's prety clear, the footwells seem fine... as far as i could see without ripping the carpet out, and when i hit those and the boot floor it was solid. there is some corrosion on the rear axle, especially around the diff but its mostly top layer and i dont think its any worse than my disco. there is minimal rust at the bottom of the top boot lid and same for the lower.
Mechanically it's ok, the car has only done 86k and has been in a garage for the last 10 with little than a monthly drive about. Air suspension works fine and all the electrics and gadgets work.

There are a couple of things i need some advice on:
1. The front ball joints are covered in oil based ****, it goes right up to the very top and covers the track rod joints too... the ball is also pitted slightly in its extremities... see image
2. It's carrying a lazy cylinder, it's a little vibration when low revs... i know this could be just a plug or a lead but just want to make sure there isnt a common fault here
3. The head lining is sagging at the back, i know this can be fixed but is it pricey?

other than that she's pretty good, and the money is good too hopefully
 

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Lazy cylinder I would start with new ht leads, and a good service then check the dizzy. Good hd leads can make a big difference. I never had the headlining issue so never fixed it. Indicator clusters are quite cheap and easy to fit.
 
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