v8250
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,872
- Location
- Deepest Darkest...
Will this help? This before engine back in/front end rebuild. Mine's a Def 90 200tdi, but clutch pipe routing is the same. If new mounting is fouling bend it or reposition.
Burnt out - rebuild
- Thread starter dag019
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 4,549
00EP is a semi fluid grease used in automatic lubrication systems with thin bore distribution pipes .... I imagine it would be good in swivels too..
Thank you, yours look slightly further inboard than either of mine, but my new one is in the same position as the old one. I have not yet finished bolting it down so will see what happens when I have done that. The whole thing seems to sit higher than the old one which I think is why it is fouling. The doors foul on the roof (no screen fitted yet) and there is a larger gap between the bottom of the foot well. this may be the issue. I think it will end up being a bend/move job it is just annoying as everything has been painted and fitted now and would have been a lot easier to do off the vehicle.
It is very very sticky, but from that it means it will be fine for coating bolts to slow/stop rusting and seizing until I remember to bring my copper grease down.
- Posts
- 4,549
v8250
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,872
- Location
- Deepest Darkest...
@dag019 , I specifically brought mine inbound a bit when fitted the new footwells. It was a bit tight before and I wanted the heat away from the clutch lines. Also, are you using a 200tdi or 2.5td downpipe...I'm wondering if they're slightly different in shape near to the clutch pipe mounting point?
Next question is about wiring for the "centre console" on a pre td5 dash. (radio, cigarette lighter, rear wash wipe switch). Befroe any one complains I should go and look at the wiring diagram I plan on doing exactly that but I am still posting here before doing that to keep you guys up to date and because you will possible answer quicker than my looking it up!
The current centre wiring is a bit of a mess on the replacement loom as it has a diy panel fitted with some switches and usb charger but it did have a radio fitted. below are the three sets of cables I have going to the centre of the dash:
The purple/black/orange and white I know is the radio feed and is permanent 12v (purple) earth (black) and ignition live (white/orange)
The other two I am not sure about. The plain green and plain black one is what was going to all of the switches and usb chargers. Any ideas what green would be in the centre?
I am hoping the final picture is the rear wash/wipe and the cigarette lights but can any one confirm? It is all taped up and not in use and only two of them have connectors (spades) on the end the rest are just blank wire that has been taped. this final one has the following cable colours: green and black, green and brown, green and red, red and orange, plain green.
The current centre wiring is a bit of a mess on the replacement loom as it has a diy panel fitted with some switches and usb charger but it did have a radio fitted. below are the three sets of cables I have going to the centre of the dash:
The purple/black/orange and white I know is the radio feed and is permanent 12v (purple) earth (black) and ignition live (white/orange)
The other two I am not sure about. The plain green and plain black one is what was going to all of the switches and usb chargers. Any ideas what green would be in the centre?
I am hoping the final picture is the rear wash/wipe and the cigarette lights but can any one confirm? It is all taped up and not in use and only two of them have connectors (spades) on the end the rest are just blank wire that has been taped. this final one has the following cable colours: green and black, green and brown, green and red, red and orange, plain green.
v8250
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,872
- Location
- Deepest Darkest...
Fill yer boots...
I am using discovery 200tdi manifolds and turbo with the steve parker stainless first exhaust section. It comes out of the turbo and spirals downwards coming close the to foot well but had not problem for many years prior to this.
just posting the wiring diagram is cheating. I was hoping someone else would do the work for me and just tell me the answer
So good news if I am reading that correctly that the green, green and brown, green and red, and green and black are the rear wash/wipe wires.
The cigarette lighter appears to be purple and green which I can't make sense of how that works? No black earth and appears to have two 12v feeds, one on ignition switch and one voltage sensing (maybe). Can anyone explain how that works?
No idea what the red and orange cable is for? Is that an illumination for when lights are on as the only wire I can see that colour on the diagram is for the right hand tail/side lights?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,242
- Location
- Wiltshire
What down pipe is that from the turbo? that looks ideal and would solve all the problems but is very different to the mild steel ordinally fitted and the steve parker stainless now fitted to mine. I will get a photo of my down pipe later but it is the spiral style.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,242
- Location
- Wiltshire
Standard disco off the turbo. All I done was put a fillet cut in down pipe to put a slight bend in it.
Some say a 300tdi pipe off the turbo fits. Makes getting go to the starter motor easier
- Posts
- 9,098
- Location
- North Lincs
My piping is in the same place as Phill's so I won't bother posting a pic!!
this is what i have:
Although different to your picturing has confirms that I could love the clutch pipe outwards so it is on the outside of the exhaust. (Previously it was on the inside) without the flexi pipe being an issue against the exhaust. Unortunately this looks like what I am going to have to do.
Having done some more of the tedious fettling with the bulkhead trying to get the door gaps to be somewhere reasonable I am happy with the drivers side:
The passenger side however still has a huge door gap looks like the bulkhead is sitting too far forwards.
I already have two washers spacing it further back and am at the point now where I am going to struggle to fit any more in as the sill is pressed up against it hard. Any suggestions as to what I need to do to try and improve this? The door does latch (series style catches) and I am going to fit the seal and see if it is acceptable but I have a feeling it is not!
But on more positive news I have fitted the first of the dash pieces! I pick up a lower dash tomorrow and hope to get that and the wiper system fitted in the evenings this week.
The passenger side however still has a huge door gap looks like the bulkhead is sitting too far forwards.
I already have two washers spacing it further back and am at the point now where I am going to struggle to fit any more in as the sill is pressed up against it hard. Any suggestions as to what I need to do to try and improve this? The door does latch (series style catches) and I am going to fit the seal and see if it is acceptable but I have a feeling it is not!
But on more positive news I have fitted the first of the dash pieces! I pick up a lower dash tomorrow and hope to get that and the wiper system fitted in the evenings this week.
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
I'm not familiar with the 110 sill, but there's a bit of adjustment on the 90 sill at the tub end. Is there nothing on the 110
From my understanding the 90 and 110 hardtop have the same sill setup. Where is the adjustment? It is all bolted to the tub and the seat box which I have not removed.I'm not familiar with the 110 sill, but there's a bit of adjustment on the 90 sill at the tub end. Is there nothing on the 110
v8250
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 6,872
- Location
- Deepest Darkest...
Undo tub, seat box and sills. Re-square tub, then seat box & then loosely align sills. Square up sills to tub, bulkhead to sills, then line up doors finding the magical 34 3/4"
