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Burnt out - rebuild
- Thread starter dag019
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Rear door wiring?
I have fitted the wiper and strengtheners from my old rear door and am now trying to work out the correct routing for the wiring. my problem is I want to replace the brunt door card with the chequer plate one which came with my replacement door. this sits flat against the frame and I cannot see how to feed the wiring without trapping it between the door card and the framework.
On the old door there was a rivnut and a cable clip screwed into the flat of the frame (where the green circle is) but that would make it stick out even further so I have not drilled this out yet.
am I missing something or does the door card just sit pressed against the wiring?
I have fitted the wiper and strengtheners from my old rear door and am now trying to work out the correct routing for the wiring. my problem is I want to replace the brunt door card with the chequer plate one which came with my replacement door. this sits flat against the frame and I cannot see how to feed the wiring without trapping it between the door card and the framework.
On the old door there was a rivnut and a cable clip screwed into the flat of the frame (where the green circle is) but that would make it stick out even further so I have not drilled this out yet.
am I missing something or does the door card just sit pressed against the wiring?
Last edited:
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I put more stick backed rubber strips on the frame, its about 5mm thick and cut out bits of it to put the wires through.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144060020215?var=443358971090
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144060020215?var=443358971090
tottot
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As above for wiring behind checker plate, original exit plastic bit used on mine.
I have the original plastic covers for the wiper and the wiring exit so that is not a problem.
The safari door card on my 90 is chequer plate with cut outs for the wiper motor, lock, washer bottle etc. A cut out on the hinge side of the door side for the wiring via the original plastic convoluted hose and cover. Secured with self tappers into the frame. It came with the Landy from some aftermarket co. Makes my old door more rigid too.
tottot
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]Folded a tough wiper cover for mine
from left over checker plate.
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I think so ...
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That is exactly what I am going for minus the washer bottle (why have it in the back door rather than twin pumps on the wing mount one?) Did you have to space your out as above?
Having just looked at what you have linked that is just foam tape. I have lots of neoprene foam tape for various other parts of the rebuild will that do the job? I was expecting some hard/solid rubber to support and prevent compression back on to the wires over time from you description.
Thank you that explains why looking at my old door did not help me with a solution. spacing it out it is!
Also as a side note I notice everyones pictures of rear doors have the original defedner handle on them. I found they were very flimsy and people (not me) always bent them so I am planning on fitting the flat one that originally came out of my series as it is far more robust. I had assumed it was a standard series item but a quick google does not show it so it might not be.
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I don't think there was any spacing out mate. The card just lay over the top. Typical LR quality, design and finish
Washer bottle was already there and didn't make sense to reroute the hose and get a twin pump job up front.
No, the panel fits flush to the door frame. The wiring for the wiper etc passes through a hole in the plate so isn't squished; a cover of some sort tidies it up.
The red lines in the photo is the cut out for the wiring, panel is flush with the door frame.
That is not the area I am concerned about the cables being squashed. I also have the cutout for them at that point and will fit the original placstic cover over the top. It is where they cross the central support ribs as shown on the picture of the red door above. The chequer plate does not have as much flex and is far less forgiving than the original door card if the wires are pressed between it and the frame at this point.
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I had a chequer plate door cover which I had just taken off before the picture above was taken.
It didn't do the wiring any harm and flexed over it ok.
When I did the rebuild I went all posh.
Its not the door card that makes it posh it is the fact you either still have paint or have gone to the effort to paint the inside! Mine is not getting that it is remaining smoke charred and scuffed.
Maybe I am worrying about nothing and a little foam tape to take some of the pressure of the wiring will be sufficient. I know it is not used much and not on for prolonged periods, having just had an electrical fire I am possible being overly cautious and aware.
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It's wise to be cautious and forums are here to ask questions about things we're unsure of. Nothing wrong with that.
Yes, every panel was sprayed inside and out as separates before I assembled it again. You wouldn't think it now if you went out and looked at it on the drive. It's permanently caked in mud, sheep and cow sh@t which slowly drops off and builds up on the drive itself. Have to get the hose out on the drive regularly. Wouldn't dare point the hose at the Landy because the resultant quagmire on the drive would be monumental
I'm afraid I've used it as it was intended rather than keep it as a pristine rebuild. The picture above was when it was just finished.Yup - has done on all of mine, just refitted the card on the current rear door and the loom is squished between the door card and the frame in several spots. I think that’s why they wrapped it in cloth tape…..
I see. Can't really remember how the loom went now but I don't recall it being an issue. It was well wrapped and taped to the door and I just sited the panel and screwed it on. All works......
I guess you could put some spacers either side to give a small space behind the chequer plate without distorting the fit.
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Yes, just foam tape, it's enough to take the pressure off the wiring. I also flattened out the cables and used Tessa tape where they looked like they may touch ...
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