Build date plate
- Thread starter Tet
- Start date
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The build year is incorporated into the VIN. The month is pretty irrelevant, but a rough date can be obtained from the registration month, being that a car can't be registered before it was built, so it must have been built before the date of first registration.
Thanks for the reply Freddie.
I
There's no mention of Australia. I recently bought the car from a vehicle broker and he supplied the manual a couple of weeks later. Maybe he got hold of an Australian version
. Not a problem - I was just browsing the manual whilst in the car and wondered whether it was an early or later year model.
I
There's no mention of Australia. I recently bought the car from a vehicle broker and he supplied the manual a couple of weeks later. Maybe he got hold of an Australian version
. Not a problem - I was just browsing the manual whilst in the car and wondered whether it was an early or later year model. Hi and thanks for the reply. I'm not familiar with Landrovers and the one I have bought was made at about the time of a face-lift I was told. Hence the interest in the month. Googling has just established the answer to that
.Thanks for the reply Freddie.
I
There's no mention of Australia. I recently bought the car from a vehicle broker and he supplied the manual a couple of weeks later. Maybe he got hold of an Australian version
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Nice one Freddie. I'm pretty sure that the manual that the broker eventually supplied me with isn't the original one to the car. It's brand new looking and the car is a later 2010 hse version. Lord knows where he got it from. The car has an aftermarket Kenwood radio (had no idea that this was the case when I bought the car) that I had to get re-coded (£165). He promised to ring me, take the car and get this done within the week. Haven't heard from him since. Then the Haldex needed replacing (£800+). It's turning out to be a real learning curve. All this since late July this year. Beautiful looking car and a pleasure to drive though!The Freelander 2 had 2 facelifts. A sort of 0.5 facelift in towards the end of 2011, and second 0.5 facelift in towards the end of 2012. The upshot being that the external styling changed slightly in the first update, and the interior (dashboard and electronics mostly) for the second update.Hi and thanks for the reply. I'm not familiar with Landrovers and the one I have bought was made at about the time of a face-lift I was told. Hence the interest in the month. Googling has just established the answer to that
It's pretty easy to tell what you have by looking at the bumpers and dashboard. The external change will have recessed front fog lights, or recessed blanking plates of no fog are fitted. The pre facelift has fog lights with removable surface mounted bezels, which look almost like an aftermarket addition.
The facelift dashboard is easily identified, as it has a large colour information screen between the rev counter and speedo. The pre facelift has a much smaller monochrome LCD information screen.
That's the easiest way to tell what model you have. You can also add pictures here of the items described, and we'll tell you what you have.
Thank you Nodge68 for that information which puts the car into the pre-face-lift period.
I wonder if you might be able to advise me what coolant to obtain for maintenance standby. From what I've read it seems critical to use the correct one. The manual specifies Texaco XLC but I can't find a retailer (apart from suppliers of industrial amounts!). Magnatec 5W-30 oil seems to be the oil to use.
I wonder if you might be able to advise me what coolant to obtain for maintenance standby. From what I've read it seems critical to use the correct one. The manual specifies Texaco XLC but I can't find a retailer (apart from suppliers of industrial amounts!). Magnatec 5W-30 oil seems to be the oil to use.
Coolant can be any OAT coolant, which are identified by colour which is red. There are also universal coolants available, which are clear. As long as you use a red or clear universal coolant, then it'll be fine.
Don't use blue or green coolants, as those are older ethylene glycol coolants, which while not actually damaging to the engine, they don't mix well with OAT coolants, and also have a much shorter service life than OAT coolant.
