Buggered my 8274

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Deasy

Deasy

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,070
Location
Warwick-on-the-shire
:mad: crap
Just killed my winch :mad:

Really stupidly aswell :(

So I was winching out fine no probs, let go of the button and it didn't stop. Sh*t.:mad:

So I'm frantically pressing buttons trying to get it to stop winching out, it's now fully out and pretty rapidly winching back in. Sh*t

Tried everything, but nothing worked.
So bonnet up and tried to undo the battery terminal, which didn't work as it was under full load so just sparked and crackled.
By this time is fully recoiled and just pulling against itself.
F*uk, big cable cutters and killed the power.

Stripped it down today and turns out that the terminals on my wireless receiver have got wet and corroded, which is why it wouldn't stop.
Solenoids burnt out :( motors burnt out :(

1) make sure you have an isolator! I do now, but too late, not making that mistake again.
2) put your wireless receiver well out the way of getting wet
3) carry some good cable cutters! Luckily I was at work to had my tool kit with me, but if I had been on a lane I wouldn't have had decent cable cutters with me

So iv ordered a new solenoid, and just looking at motors.
Can give me abit of advice please :)
I can't really ATM afford a main shaft upgrade, but believe its best to do it if I get a bow 2??
But I shouldn't need to upgrade it with a bow 1?
I only use it laning, and I was happy with the speed and power of the original motor. So think a now 1 will be fine.......but a 2 is only another £20/£30

Id quite like a xp9.5 but more than I want to spend right now

Advice please :)
 
gutted for you chap.

as for the Bow2, I would, as you say its only a bit dearer and you just know that if you dont at some point you'll be using it and start thinking "hmm, if only..."
 
trax99 said:
gutted for you chap.

as for the Bow2, I would, as you say its only a bit dearer and you just know that if you dont at some point you'll be using it and start thinking "hmm, if only..."
Click to expand...

I know that's what I keep thinking. But it's the other £200 for a main shaft upgrade that's putting me off :confused:

Will it be ok without upgrading it? Or should I just run it until it snaps then Rory about it later?
Or will it snap on first use?
 
I'd be tempted to fit the bigger motor, then try it out somewhere that dont matter if the winch goes pop - last thing you'd want is to be out in the wilds, stuck with a shagged winch.
my experience of things like this is that they tend to be well over engineered and as long as you take the load up on the motor steadily it'll probably do for a while.


this could of course be famous last words
 
Gutted pal,

My 8274 has been good so far,

My xd9000 I has before dud what yours did and I had attached it to a tree and it kept winching in, I had an isolator but it had melted and dint work,,t stopped when the isolator melted,

Just an idea I had for mine but never did, but an isolator on the positive, and an emergency push button on the ground just incase, don't buy cheep stuff like an isolators
 
Oooo GP have the 9.5xp motor on offer. £295..... Or £235 for a bow 2, I'm convincing myself that I need the XP

And D44 have Albright Solenoids for £51 aswell ATM

Think il ring Jim tomorrow about how 2 or xp
 
I've got a bow 1 on mine and it pulls absolutely great, standard mainshaft no problems yet.

What battery/alternator/cables have you got? No point putting a big motor on if you can't supply it with enough power. As above, don't bother with cheap isolators.
 
Deasy said:
Just bought a new Albright hd solenoid.

Got a numax CXV-x on a t max split charge system
Numax CXV-X 1000 Amp - Leisure Batteries - Numax Leisure Batteries
Wired in 35mm cables ag2 I think??

Isolates are the red key type, I thought they were all prety standard? Sais 400a in it
Click to expand...

I'm gutted for you mate. Some form of isolator is an absolute must.

The red plastic key isolators aren't any cop. You really need the metal key type one. I prefer to have my isolator in the cab and the winch connected via Anderson connectors. That way it doesn't matter if I'm in the cab or out, I can still isolate it.
 
ratty said:
I'm gutted for you mate. Some form of isolator is an absolute must.

The red plastic key isolators aren't any cop. You really need the metal key type one. I prefer to have my isolator in the cab and the winch connected via Anderson connectors. That way it doesn't matter if I'm in the cab or out, I can still isolate it.
Click to expand...

It's a lot more difficult to get the isolators inside the cab on a disco though... And not really anywhere to put them either
 
my winch is wired in 70mm2 tri-rated cables. Isolation is via an albright solenoid switched via a switch on the dash, and an emergency stop button on the front grill, (although not fitted yet)it also requires the ignition to be on and also has a battery isolator for each battery aswell as a vehicle isolator
 
top-cat said:
my winch is wired in 70mm2 tri-rated cables. Isolation is via an albright solenoid switched via a switch on the dash, and an emergency stop button on the front grill, (although not fitted yet)it also requires the ignition to be on and also has a battery isolator for each battery aswell as a vehicle isolator
Click to expand...

Tri rated I can get hold of dead easy through work.

I was looking at the Albright isolators too iv got my winch controls in the cab which I have an isolator switch for so it can't be switched by accident

Where have you got your winch solenoid mounted TC?
 
Deasy said:
Tri rated I can get hold of dead easy through work.

I was looking at the Albright isolators too iv got my winch controls in the cab which I have an isolator switch for so it can't be switched by accident

Where have you got your winch solenoid mounted TC?
Click to expand...
The winch control solenoid is mounted in the front grill but the power solenoid is behind the pasenger seat in the cab
 
My solenoid is on the end of my motor, just clip the jump lead to it and the ground is easy to get to under the motor.
 
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