Buggered my 8274
- Thread starter Deasy
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Call yourself an electrician Deasy 
Painful though it maybe, least you weren't winching someone at the time.
I echo other comments, winch isolation, full vehicle isolation and individual battery isolation are all a must
Painful though it maybe, least you weren't winching someone at the time.
I echo other comments, winch isolation, full vehicle isolation and individual battery isolation are all a must
Deasy
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I know! That's why on my first post I pointed out that it was stupid lol.Call yourself an electrician Deasy
Painful though it maybe, least you weren't winching someone at the time.
I echo other comments, winch isolation, full vehicle isolation and individual battery isolation are all a must
Deasy
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Replaced the solenoid with an Albright, it's all working fine again new motor unfortunately not need
new motor unfortunately not need 
Optimus Prime
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re: the isolator:
400A continuous isn't necessarily what you need. that simply means the isolator can handle 400 amps continuously. It will be fine if you use it to isolate or connect when the winch isn't running.
But:
for the situation described above, it is the breaking capacity which matters, that is to say the maximum load that the isolator will disconnect. You need to find the maximum possible current that the winch can draw, and make sure that the isolator exceeds this by a reasonable amount, say 25%, if not more.
If the current draw of the winch exceeds the breaking capacity of the switch, then the contacts will simply weld themselves together when you try to isolate with the winch at full current.
The making capacity is largely irrelevant as it is unlikely that the winch would be set to run and full current and then the isolator turned on.
400A continuous isn't necessarily what you need. that simply means the isolator can handle 400 amps continuously. It will be fine if you use it to isolate or connect when the winch isn't running.
But:
for the situation described above, it is the breaking capacity which matters, that is to say the maximum load that the isolator will disconnect. You need to find the maximum possible current that the winch can draw, and make sure that the isolator exceeds this by a reasonable amount, say 25%, if not more.
If the current draw of the winch exceeds the breaking capacity of the switch, then the contacts will simply weld themselves together when you try to isolate with the winch at full current.
The making capacity is largely irrelevant as it is unlikely that the winch would be set to run and full current and then the isolator turned on.
Mine welded in the on postion, with my old setup
I have 2000cca and 172ah wired with 70mm2 cable and even after a very hard pull with a snatch block or straight pull nothing gas ever got that hot, that the electric cables and motor, I was told when there not getting enough power they will get hot, don't know how true this is,
This is me recovering mud muppet from on here when he killed it at Rothwell,
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9wR_IviVcE0&desktop_uri=/watch?v=9wR_IviVcE0
Optimus Prime
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tis true that undersized cabling will get hot if too much current is drawn through.
the issue with the isolator comes when you try to switch it off under load, as the contacts separate, it forms an arc. depending on the size and type of the isolator, this can then weld the contacts together (exactly like arc welding).
the issue with the isolator comes when you try to switch it off under load, as the contacts separate, it forms an arc. depending on the size and type of the isolator, this can then weld the contacts together (exactly like arc welding).
