Britpart FFs!

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nobber

nobber

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So I bought some glass fuses from them, OEM they were, put one in my full beam, didn't work, tried another, didn't work, then another, I went through 6 fuses out of their ten pack before I thought they cant all be bad, they weren't, they were all good, they were just a smaller diameter than the originals and didn't make good enough contact!
I thought my fuse holders might be too big but nope, measured them and the BP fuses are definitely smaller! Looks like I will have to squeeze my fuse holder contacts together to accommodate them.
 
Give the contacts a good clean and a smear of Vaseline while you're in there, apologies for teaching granny to suck eggs etc etc. Tis the season for corrosion!
 
The solution to those god awful unreliable fuses
 

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nobber said:
So I bought some glass fuses from them, OEM they were, put one in my full beam, didn't work, tried another, didn't work, then another, I went through 6 fuses out of their ten pack before I thought they cant all be bad, they weren't, they were all good, they were just a smaller diameter than the originals and didn't make good enough contact!
I thought my fuse holders might be too big but nope, measured them and the BP fuses are definitely smaller! Looks like I will have to squeeze my fuse holder contacts together to accommodate them.
Click to expand...

You're still using glass fuses in 2018? I upgraded my Series 3 to blade fuses in 2001 LOL

But size wise I'm not surprised, same with the replacement heater blower motors for D1 & RRCs they're an interference fit into a plastic housing and I found the casings to be a sloppy fit :( Worst thing is that they are the only suppliers of that particular part :mad::mad::mad:
 
bluedog333 said:
Possibly, the door shape would have needed to have changed for that pane to fit. It was the right part number for the year. The replacement was supposed to be 5mm but was actually 4mm. Good old Britpart.
Click to expand...
When I was changing my glass over to tinted and resealed the alpine windows I remember there was changeover point where they went from 5 to 4mm (think it was that way around) so sounds like you received the wrong year range glass.
 
Kwakerman said:
When I was changing my glass over to tinted and resealed the alpine windows I remember there was changeover point where they went from 5 to 4mm (think it was that way around) so sounds like you received the wrong year range glass.
Click to expand...
You are correct, they did change from 5 to 4mm, but the pane with the rounded corners was 5mm and the pane with the correct shaped corners was 4mm and both panes had the correct part number for the year of the 110 ( both panes in their unopened ****part packaging ). So whatever you look at it they were wrong.
 
reiny said:
How bit a job is it to change the awful glass fuses to blade fuses?
Click to expand...
Easy if I recall, did mine 14yrs ago.
Make notes/take pics of what you have there already, I think some of the original wires were piggy backed off the same fuses but it was a long time ago and I also added extra circuits and relays so it took much longer but it's simple enough if you can solder.
While it was all apart I also fitted a relay behind the metal fuse panel for the glowplugs to take the load off the ign switch and wiring , mines a pre 200 TDI with no timer relay and hold to glow on the key.
Edit to say- just had a look at mine and tried to take a pic but my phone is playing up. I've used 2 banks of 8 way fuse holders which fit just right height wise. I've cut a square out of the metal backplate and installed the holders from behind, they can't go all the way through as the mounting lugs of the fuse holders prevent it, I've then drilled holes and bolted them in place. I can't remember why I did it this way, it does reduce how far the holders protrude so maybe the plastic cover (the Landy one with the diff lock instructions on it)wouldn't fit if the holders were surface mounted?
 
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