Brakes. Series 109

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Little bit more done today, found a 5 way connector, got the pipe from rear flexi up to it, still need to practice on the bends though.
 

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You can get a pipe bending pliers, or you can use your fingers as hooks to pull the pipe into a neat bend. I use a pipe straightener if the pipe gets knarly, but if you keep it straight from the coil, it's not always necessary.

Having an old pipe helps:
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You can get a pipe bending pliers, or you can use your fingers as hooks to pull the pipe into a neat bend. I use a pipe straightener if the pipe gets knarly, but if you keep it straight from the coil, it's not always necessary.

Having an old pipe helps:
View attachment 255385
Glad Im doing mine with body off. Got the first short front one on today but not convinced the flexi hose is on right way round, Im sure it came off old chassis that way but I see from some google pics some have them the other way round.
 

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Flexi is on wrong way 'round, it should face away from the shock. Way it is now, it will be rubbing off shock and cause wear.....

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Right wonder why some people do it that way, the PO obviously did too,
Think I will swap it round the other way, will have to reroute my bloody piping though, hope I can get it with pipe already on without having to start again.
 
Just about finished all brake pipes now apart rom these 2 , bought some already shaped as tried to make some but it is realy tight on the bottom. Land Rover Series 2 3 109" LWB Front Preshaped Brake Backplate Pipes x2 NRC5347 | eBay
Could I fit them, Could I f!!ck , tried loosening the cylinders they didnt move much, but did finally get one to go on and turn on the threads but when I looked at the top it was way off the top cylinder, so not sure what the hell Im doing wrong.
Gave up for the night will have another go tomorrow.
 
When I do this, I remove the cylinders, thread the pipes through the back plate and start the threads, then refit everything. I also route the pipe from the flexihose to the bottom cylinder. The back plate shouldn't be rotated, as the drain for the oil leak slot on the stub axle is aligned with it.
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When I do this, I remove the cylinders, thread the pipes through the back plate and start the threads, then refit everything. I also route the pipe from the flexihose to the bottom cylinder. The back plate shouldn't be rotated, as the drain for the oil leak slot on the stub axle is aligned with it.
View attachment 255954
Yes very similar to steve2286w on post 24, couldn't be bothered to remove the bloody hubs to rotate them but think I will bite the bullet and get both sides done, have you put bleed nipple on the top ?
 
Yes, new pipe from flexihose to the lower cylinder, then old pipe to the top, with bleeder at the top. MUCH easier to bleed the system.

Be sure to leave access to the adjusters, and have the pipe not touching anything.
 
Got one side rotated, got the backplate pipe on, just need to make one going up to flexi.
Tried one of the nipples in but it wouldnt thread, not sure if they are different thread or to long but I am sure I got them when I bought the full brake kit.
 

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Got one side rotated, got the backplate pipe on, just need to make one going up to flexi.
Tried one of the nipples in but it wouldnt thread, not sure if they are different thread or to long but I am sure I got them when I bought the full brake kit.

If irc that pipe union is metric indicated by the grooves cut into the head your nipple is not..
 
Didnt get a chance to get new nipples but had a go at the last pipe, not sure if I should of got it closer to the backing plate like wildefalcons pic.
 

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Depends, will you be taking it seriously off-road? I mean, is there a risk of it being caught by heavy mud, gravel and branches? Will it be used for winch trophies?

The wheel and tyre will protect it for most use, so should be fine.
 
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