It is has 3 wires power in and one to dipped and then full beam...it fits in the hole next to gearbox tunnel for rhd or in the blanked off on the near side by A post operated by left foot...will upload pics of junctions on a 58 tomorrow just finished cleaning them up...@border
Brakes. Series 109
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It is has 3 wires power in and one to dipped and then full beam...it fits in the hole next to gearbox tunnel for rhd or in the blanked off on the near side by A post operated by left foot...will upload pics of junctions on a 58 tomorrow just finished cleaning them up...@border
border
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Thanks look forward to pics
steve2286w
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Correct dip switch
from 2a owners manual
http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/01/series-iia-owners-manual/
from 2a owners manual
http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/01/series-iia-owners-manual/
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Think Ive got everything I need to start apart from T piece for rear axle,
got flaring tool, kunifer pipe, male and female unions.
Should I be doing a Double Flare on every union ?
got flaring tool, kunifer pipe, male and female unions.
Should I be doing a Double Flare on every union ?
steve2286w
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Hopefully this will help
On my series 3 into wheel cylinders it’s single flare and when in the nuts going onto flexis used The double flare as below, it’s a bit common sense when you look at the mating part , eg pipe end (egg ) sits in egg cup (wheel cylinder) if you understand my strange analogy
On my series 3 into wheel cylinders it’s single flare and when in the nuts going onto flexis used The double flare as below, it’s a bit common sense when you look at the mating part , eg pipe end (egg ) sits in egg cup (wheel cylinder) if you understand my strange analogy
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Thanks for pics.
Had a bit practice today, quite pleased with it But not sure about the T Piece , got it from local landy place this morning but think its wrong. Although the unions and hose fits they dont go in as far as they did on the old one which was deeper, they pipe from cylinder to union are nipped up but but the coper washer on hose just spins, Is this OK ? or should I change it,
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tottot
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Hard to tell from just pics but I recon at the T the hard pipe fitting is cross threaded [ very easy to do ] and wont go in all the way. [ Other option is wrong thread on fittings ]
The flexi is the wrong way around. T and copper washer goes tight.
The flexi is the wrong way around. T and copper washer goes tight.
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Looking at old one which is damaged and meausuring depth it is definitely deeper, this is old one up to 1980. BTB657L - Tee Piece for Brake Pipes (johncraddockltd.co.uk)
and this is the new one I am trying after 1980 NRC4251 - T Piece Brake Pipe Rear July 1980 to 2006 Non Abs. and Discovery Non Abs. and Rrc (johncraddockltd.co.uk)
David Leech
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(After 1980) NRC4251 is metric as far as I can gather, what brake pipe fittings and flexi are you using?.....
border
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Not really sure just what they gave me at shop. but the unions and hose screw in to both old and new T pieces here is pic of old and new you can see difference in depth.
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BikerB
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I just bead blasted the old T pieces and then cleaned them with brake cleaner, they are brass and clean up nicely.
Even doing it by hand I would reuse the old one before I would buy new, not for cost reasons but the older parts are generally better..
Even doing it by hand I would reuse the old one before I would buy new, not for cost reasons but the older parts are generally better..
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Old one is broken mate
BikerB
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Blanchards have the originals.
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Well the landy specialist assures me that it will be OK with this new t piece, put everything in place , not the neatest of pipework but still practicing, first time Ive tried it really.
Nipped up without washer but still gap so I I put 2 in
Nipped up without washer but still gap so I I put 2 in
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Wildefalcon
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Just checking. How tight were the unions when you screwed then into the tee pieces?
There are metric and imperial versions, as suggested before. But the Imperial stuff can physically go into the metric stuff. It's very loose, though, and will never seal or be safe.
There are metric and imperial versions, as suggested before. But the Imperial stuff can physically go into the metric stuff. It's very loose, though, and will never seal or be safe.
border
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Nipped up tight I took unions with me and he said they were right ones for t piece
Wildefalcon
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Cool, brakes are something you don't mess with.
Rebuilding mine at the moment.
1981 LWB, all metric.
Rebuilding mine at the moment.
1981 LWB, all metric.
border
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Good luck, is your's dual or single ?
Wildefalcon
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Dual, servo, PDWA.
All mod cons. And lots of rusty pipes.
All mod cons. And lots of rusty pipes.
