That was when vcu was on its now off and the judder is about half that now. Don't think can get that in vid to be honest as its not as bad as that now
Brake issue driving me mad
- Thread starter Mitax-184
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,910
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,910
That's not cv joints. If it ain't doing it when it's cold and starts doing it when it warms up, it's probably the IRD.
Because when cold your fluid is thick, so little movement, as it warms up and becomes thinner you get alot more movement.
Do an ird oil change now!
Mike
Edit, did they put the right oil in as I've just read your reply.
Because when cold your fluid is thick, so little movement, as it warms up and becomes thinner you get alot more movement.
Do an ird oil change now!
Mike
Edit, did they put the right oil in as I've just read your reply.
They did they are very good honest guys. I'm getting the shake judder from cold now as was under the impression it was the central prop and the charm of a 4x4 as this is my very first one. Sorry not explaining my self great at times so apologies on that. The shake is in 2nd & 3rd from cold
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,910
Unfortunately my speciality is with auto boxes not manuals. So I'll have to leave this one, sorry.
Mike
Mike
Well vcu is fooked. But I'm stumped hope it's not the ird but the luck im having with this car will be. Any other signs to look for to give a accurate diagnosis that it's the ird? Though it's cause the breaks where doing something and heating up but looks like was massivly wrong
I'd love to investigate this myself. I had a similar problem on a V6 with similar symptoms, except it was doing it hot or cold. On the V6 it was most evident between 15 to 35 Mph. I never actually managed to solve what was the cause of that vibration. However I suspected it was IRD related. Everything except the gearbox and IRD was changed, including the drive shafts.
Needalandy
Active Member
- Posts
- 120
- Location
- Edinburgh
Sorry for being pedantic but I keep seeing the heading for this post and because you've spelt "Brakes" as "Breaks" its seriously affecting my OCD. Any chance you could correct it so that I can relax for the weekend?
Thanking you in advance
Yeah sorry mate dyslexic rely on auto correct to much
@Nodge68 @Skinny Mike
Been out for a drive just got back now from it.
Results are constant juddering at all speeds lucky where I live fast winding roads and what I've found is right corners it's worse left corners is disappears briefly so I would assume this is the left hand drive shaft. The brakes are still roasting so that's still a issue think that will be just new calipers. I love and hate this car at the time
Been out for a drive just got back now from it.
Results are constant juddering at all speeds lucky where I live fast winding roads and what I've found is right corners it's worse left corners is disappears briefly so I would assume this is the left hand drive shaft. The brakes are still roasting so that's still a issue think that will be just new calipers. I love and hate this car at the time
Other end of the country to me then.
Try grabbing the both inner CV joints and wiggle them, up and down, left and right. There will be some play but it shouldn't feel loose. If they flop about then it's likely to be the output bearings in the box or IRD. The IRD bearing is reasonably straightforward to do for a good machanic. Sadly the gearbox side requires much more work to change.
If you are changing the drive shafts, don't buy cheap. The best are the original manufacturer's parts. Most cheap replacements vibrate anyway.
Just been under the old girl and it's cold there is play but nothing drastic the play is about equal on each side. Going to mount my GoPro under the car and go for a drive see what is happening I should not wobble should it. Will post findings up and see what you think.
2 things to check. When you turn a hub, how much run out (sideways movement) is visible at the disc edge. The gap between the pads is a good place to look. There should be no visible run out. If the edge of the disc looks wobbles like a buckled bicycle wheel, then the discs are fubared.
Look at the lower engine tie bar, the large end and check for softness of the bush. Try levering it to see how much slop it has. Softness here can allow the engine to shake about.
Look at the lower engine tie bar, the large end and check for softness of the bush. Try levering it to see how much slop it has. Softness here can allow the engine to shake about.
Similar threads
