Brake disc thickness & other parts

fishsponge · May 27, 2012

I measured the brake discs and here are the results...

Front-Right: 10.8mm
Front-Left: 11.2mm
Rear-Right: 11.4mm
Rear-Left: 11.5mm

I understand that these are all too thin (on my 1997 Disco 1 ES with ABS).

I'm going to get a garage to do this work because since tackling the wheel bearings myself in the past and finding it (well, the locknut mainly) a nightmare, i'm not tackling it again.

So, if i'm going to get the discs replaced, should I replace the pads too?

And should I replace the wheel bearings?

What else do you replace at the same time just 'cos you should/could?

And finally, what brands are most commonly used? I understand Timken are best for bearings, and I like EBC for brake pads, but what about discs and other bits?

jamesmartin · May 27, 2012

if you replace discs you should replace pads ,as they will have run in to the old discs

The Mad Hat Man · May 27, 2012

12mm minimum thickness according to Rave.

Personally I like EBC disks and pads. Go for greenstuff 6000.

fishsponge · May 27, 2012

I was going to go greenstuff last time I replaced the pads, but someone told me I would have to tell my insurance company I had "uprated" the brakes with greenstuff, despite them not actually giving any performance improvement. I thought this was a load of BS, but to save any future screwups I ditched greenstuff and went for "normal".

Also, if I replace the discs and pads, should I replace the wheel bearings too, or is that pointless?

jamesmartin · May 27, 2012

only replace bearings etc if worn other wise leave just do disc and pads

fishsponge · May 27, 2012

brilliant - sounds good - i'll dig up the part numbers, buy it all from EBC and see what the garage are gonna charge.....

the sad thing is, it's such a simple job, but I just had a nightmare with the wheel bearings and those "fold-over" locknuts - I'm just never confident (due to lack of experience) that once i've hammered the locknuts over on the wheel bearings i've got them set right, and the nuts always shift while i'm hammering over the locknuts too, so i'm too afraid of this particular job, sadly, due to messing it up in the past!

Someone over my shoulder telling me what i'm doing wrong would be great, but garages won't even let me watch things being done from a distance, which sucks, so I can't even learn by watching!

Ah well... i'll get to see it done one day, I'm sure!

StuRox · May 28, 2012

When I replaced mine, I upped the spec to the 110 vented discs and the bigger calipers....just a thought

as it didn't come out that much more considering I got drilled/grooved discs and performance pads etc (and no they don't clog up in the mud).

I think all in all about £150.00 - used Island 4x4 I think....was a while ago, but will have the receipts somewhere at home in a folder in a safe place.....

fishsponge · May 28, 2012

So presumably what you did was replace the rear brakes with exactly the same (non-vented, kept the calipers, but bought new discs and pads), but up the front you bought new vented discs, new calipers and new pads, right? All for £150?

StuRox · May 28, 2012

Sorry, might not have read the thread properly....and didn't realise we were on about both the front and rear brakes.

In my project, I only worked on the front brakes, as I had already switched the rear discs/pads a couple of years ago (for like for like), so they were fine.

All I knew was I needed new discs and pads on the front, so I bought the 110 vented Drilled/grooved discs, 110 performance pads, and also the 110 calipers, as the discs are wider with being vented, and also the 110 has larger pads

And that was all around £150.00 - then I managed to sell on the old calipers, which clawed back some of the outlay

fishsponge · May 28, 2012

Ah... i'll look into both solutions then - with EBC pads and discs throughout!

You say you already switched the rear over, but does that mean you put vented discs and new calipers on the rear too?

StuRox · May 28, 2012

fishsponge said:
You say you already switched the rear over, but does that mean you put vented discs and new calipers on the rear too?

Nah, just replaced them for like for like, all standard solid discs and pads as the front do most of the work, and no real benfit upgrading the rears in my opinion

fishsponge · May 28, 2012

OK... so i'll just replace the rears disc and pads with identical ones from EBC and i'll compare the cost of upgrading the front to vented ones with new calipers against the cost of doing like for like again

Thanks for the advice!

StuRox · May 28, 2012

no probs, if I get chance tonight I will look through all my receipts etc, and see if I can find the ones when I did the conversion, and let you know them

fishsponge · May 28, 2012

that'd be fantastic, but no pressure

StuRox · May 29, 2012

Found the receipt of when I did the conversion - phewweee no pressure...

Got my stuff from Island 4x4 (Kent) Ltd - 01622 693884 - were really helpful in sorting out everything I needed, and this is what I got..

1 x Front Brake Pads 110/130 86- - Part No STC2952 - £12.49
1 x Front Brake Discs (2) Drilled & Grooved 110/130 1994 on - Part No DA4602 - £44.16
1 x Front Brake Pad Fitting Kit (Vented Discs) - Part No STC8575 - £2.49
1 x Caliper Front LH 110/130 94- (Vented) - Part No SEB500470 - £49.99
1 x Caliper Front RH 110/130 94- (Vented) - Part No SEB500460 - £49.99
5 x Front Brake Caliper Bolt Metric (Double Hex) - Part No FTC3375 - £2.15

Total £161.27 plus VAT £32.25 = £193.52 (plus free delivery)

A bit more than £150.00, but less than £200.00 at least!

thebiglad · May 29, 2012

fishsponge said:
OK... so i'll just replace the rears disc and pads with identical ones from EBC and i'll compare the cost of upgrading the front to vented ones with new calipers against the cost of doing like for like again

Thanks for the advice!

I'm sorry matey but you always always make things soooooooh complicated.

If you're going to change discs and pads alround why don't you just get the kits from Paddocks - they're cheap and they work well.

As soon as I read that someone was suggesting going for vented at the front, as an alternative I could see your spreadsheets unravelling.

Std discs and pads work perfectly well on the std performance of the TDi 300 Disco.

Keep it simple, mate, for your own peace of mind.

BRAKEKIT2M | Front Discs and Pads Kit Mintex - Disco 1 from KA034314 with solid discs

BRAKEKIT4M | Rear Discs and Pads Kit Mintex - Disco 1

fishsponge · Jun 13, 2012

Thanks again for the advice... I have always liked EBC anyway, so have already bought these:

1x Standard Discs - Rear EBC Brakes (kit for 2 wheels) - £56.50
1x Ultimax Brake Pads - Rear EBC Brakes (kit for 2 wheels) - £17.63
1x Ultimax Brake Pads - Front EBC Brakes (kit for 2 wheels) - £22.01
1x Standard Discs - Front EBC Brakes (kit for 2 wheels) - £60.05

I THINK all I need to buy from Paddocks now is:

8x STC4382G | Wheel Bearing - Timken (OE) (One wheel is knackered anyway, another maybe on its way out and as they have to come out and go back in again, cheap to just replace them.
4x FRC8700 | Wheel Bearing Locknut
4x FTC3179 | Hub bearing lock washer
4x 571752 | Drive flange gasket (hub gasket)
4x FTC5268G | Inner stub axle seal - OE Manufacturer
4x FTC4785G | Hub seal- OE Manufacturer
4x wheel bearing grease sachets (can't find part number)
20x bolts to replace the ones currently holding the hub cover on (can't find part number)
20x bolts for securing discs to hubs (can't find part number)
20x bolts for securing hubs to axle (can't find part number)

Questions...

1. Do you know the part numbers I'm missing above?

2. What else am I missing? washers? gaskets? seals? nuts? bolts? anything at all?!?

3. What am I buying that is needless?

Stuff that's cheap I always replace anyway (a) for spares and (b) to keep things from corroding too far generally so i want to replace all the bolts anyway, and any washers, gaskets, whatever I've missed off the list.

The Mad Hat Man · Jun 13, 2012

EBC greenstuff 6000 pads are very good.

fishsponge · Jun 14, 2012

greenstuff is nice, but a bit too expensive for me, and my insurance company said it'd come up as another modification as "uprated brakes" if I used those. I've already bought the discs and pads anyway.

I am about to buy the following from Paddocks:

- 8x STC4382G - Bearings (£7.00 + vat each)
- 4x FTC4785R - Hub seal (£1.65 + vat each)
- 4x 571752 - Drive flange gasket (£0.12 + vat each)
- 8x FRC8700 - Lock nut (£0.75 + vat each)
- 4x FTC3179 - Lock washer (£0.21 + vat each)
- 2x STC3435 - Grease (£3.05 + vat each) - this is apparently for the wheel bearings! can someone confirm that it's the same as wheel bearing grease?
- 20x BX110095M - Bolt (£0.30 + vat each)
- 20x FTC1368 - Bolt (£0.55 + vat each)
- 20x RUF000020 - Bolt (£0.33 + vat each)
- 8x FTC3375 - Bolt (£0.27 + vat each)

Can someone confirm that there are no wrong parts, no surplus parts and nothing missing?

The garage will hate me if I supply the wrong parts or something's missing! lol

RichP · Jun 14, 2012

Hi.
Is there any reason why you're replacing the wheel studs? 20x RUF000020. You don't need to as you don't remove them from the hub when replacing the discs.

Brake disc thickness & other parts

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