P38A Brake bleeding using Nanocom

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tarphenry

tarphenry

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Hi, replaced all my brake pipes with "kunifer " pipework and intend to bleed the system, I have a Nanocom Which appears to have a brake bleeding facility on it, but I can find no information on how to use it. has anyone used theirs and can help Thanks
 
I would assume all it can do is run the pump. Which is one of the last things in the bleeding procedure.
 
Agree, use Rave...later models can be auto bleed, not the p38. Many people seem to have spent many hours trying to come up with something other than the std procedure...they all give up eventually
 
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There are some functions for Wabco D but not something i have ever used as i don't have that system. Better sticking to RAVE. It's easy enough.
 
thanks juke ,I know where they are, just no info on which button does what and what should I be looking for on the test ?
 
+1 on do it per the procedure in RAVE. The Nano procedure says "start with manual bleed", so why not just do that.

In case anyone wants the Nanocom Wabco D explanation, this is from the nano Forums, but doesn't help much !
** Quote **
ABS power bleed: This causes the ABS system to bleed the main hydraulic circuit and may need to be repeated if there is a substantial amount of air in the circuit.
ABS modulator bleed: This causes the ABS system to bleed the secondary hydraulic circuit and may need to be repeated if there is a substantial amount of air in the circuit.

There is a rule on how to bleed these systems, you start with the Manual Bleed which means that you need to replace the brake fluid in the tank.

Then you start with the Modulator Bleed. For this you need to have the Brake pedal depressed. This will pre-bleed the 4 ABS channels. You can do it twice, always with the brake pedal depressed.
All the bleeding nipples must be closed at this stage. Once this ends, take all the wheels out, put the vehicle on 4 stands and perform the main bleeding procedure:
Start with the power bleed with the bleeding nipples opened in the following sequence:
Left Front Wheel
Right Rear Wheel
Right Front Wheel
Left Rear Wheel

Don't forget to fill up the fluid tank so it will not suck air otherwise you need to start all over again. No need to depress the brake pedal during the individual bleed.
Note that the ABS pump requires a lot of power so you will need a power supply connected to the vehicle.
 
Just do as per RAVE for christ sake. Bleed the booster first of all. Then the front brakes are bled hydrostatically WITHOUT any accumulator pressure. The rear brakes CANNOT be bled unless there is accumulator pressure.
The fronts are bled first the rears are bled second. The front brakes will always work because they are hydrostatic and do not need pressure assistance. Obviously they will not stop you on a dime but they always work. The rear brakes will not work without boost pressure. Simples.
 
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tarphenry said:
why does everyone throw a mini fit if you ask a reasonable question.most were of the opinion to bleed the brakes manually which is what happened the morning after the question was asked. please just leave it alone now, you will be having a heart attack
Click to expand...

So why not just say “followed the manual” and all is great thanks?

It will help newbies in the future. well the ones that search anyway;)

You know well enough that banter may go on in between Q and result?
J
 
Once the Nanocom functionality to bleed brakes was raised people want to fully understand what it does. That seems sensible.

The pwood999 post says it is mainly for getting stubborn air out of the modulator. Seems it mimics pressing the pedal with ignition on? I've certainly had fun getting all air out fitting a new modulator so I can see why it might be useful.
 
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