Millertime_9
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Boot door missing bolt?
- Thread starter Millertime_9
- Start date
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I am no expert, in-fact I logged on to ask if anyone knows where to buy stainless steel front and back mud flap bolts for my 90......
but it looks like a bolt head had sheered of (a long time ago) judging by the rust... same thing happened to my old 110 on the rear passenger door stay looked identical but with less rust.. just done a quick google. can't tell if this is a botch job or for real, does yours look like it may have a hole through it?
but it looks like a bolt head had sheered of (a long time ago) judging by the rust... same thing happened to my old 110 on the rear passenger door stay looked identical but with less rust.. just done a quick google. can't tell if this is a botch job or for real, does yours look like it may have a hole through it?
sierrafery
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You need 3 new parts there, google out as follows:
1. MXC1087
2. BYF100070
3. BYV100000
These are parts 9, 10, 18 http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35775/35776/2739/36142
1. MXC1087
2. BYF100070
3. BYV100000
These are parts 9, 10, 18 http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35775/35776/2739/36142
Millertime_9
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darrenm
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How do you remove the old one
sierrafery
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What's certain is that has circlip at the bottom too and you have to remove that so do somehow to reach it(i can't tell you how)
discool
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As it appears that due to the lack of any lubricant you have a bit of long term rust in the area of the clevis pin. Answer With difficulty.
So to remove the clevis pin soak it with PlusGas overnight and then hit squarely with a club hammer, if your lucky in will move and drop out below the bumper.
The new pin will be installed from below with one of the clips fitted, the second clip will then be fitted to retain the door stay.
The clevis pin that a Defender has, although similar it may not be the same, it has a mushroom head so only uses a clip above the bumper to retain the door stay.
If the pin doesn’t move, then there’s a modification thats stated on on the web, so depending on you engineering skill, drill a hole in the top of the existing pin in situ, then tap thread into it for a screw, then with a large washer and with the suitable screw plus a small washer to retain the the large washer on top of the stay... job done.
darrenm
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I cannot see any way to get it out all underneath is solid so cannot see the other side
darrenm
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I cannot see anyway for it to drop out or access it from underneath
kevinrbeech@msn. com
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Mine (back in 2004) was like that too, I eventually drilled the stud and put in a split pin with a washer under, that lasted until the back end fell off due to rust.
Lovely vehicle though, 200 tdi, bought on 143k sold on 223k, took it to Tunisia 3 times, spent a fortune on it but best car I ever had, until now.
Now I got a D3 with less than 100k on the clock, thinking of taking that to the desert now.
Lovely vehicle though, 200 tdi, bought on 143k sold on 223k, took it to Tunisia 3 times, spent a fortune on it but best car I ever had, until now.
Now I got a D3 with less than 100k on the clock, thinking of taking that to the desert now.
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My D2 did that so my mechanic welded a large 'washer' into the top of that bolt head.
darrenm
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That’s what I did today
