boost leak

On another note you say a disco with standard Road tyres went past you, I assume you was in low box and had diff lock engaged?

IamRobbie said:

Low down grunt or pre boost is the cap on top of the fip, 13mm lock nut and a t25 I believe. Some say 2 and a half turns clockwise then tighten the lock nut back up. I adjusted a friends standard engine a few weeks ago and we went in 2 turns. Standard pin was turned 6 degrees from standard position, the little dot at 1 o clock and be anywhere as it's only a dot on a big flat washer... Pretty easy to see where standard position is by looking at your old pin and see where the groove from the fuel adjuster has been rubbing. Then there is also the star wheel at the bottom which I don't really bother with.

I have a boost pin on mine and it smokes like hell on full throttle and I belive it's because my pump was messed with before I had the engine and it's overfueling on full boost or not getting enough oxygen to burn. I fitted a boost gauge and I only get 0.5bar, which is less than it should have standard.

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Lack of boost is down to the turbo. Fuelling is increased by the fuel adjuster at back of pump.

wammers said:

Lack of boost is down to the turbo. Fuelling is increased by the fuel adjuster at back of pump.

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Yes, lack of boost from the turbo will mean lack of oxygen to burn with the extra fuel

IamRobbie said:

Yes, lack of boost from the turbo will mean lack of oxygen to burn with the extra fuel

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This is correct. = smoke.

Hmmm I've got a boost pin fitted, it smokes like hell if it's under load uphill, still pulls though but gives out normal smoke on flat road. Is this normal?

Coffeelandy said:

Hmmm I've got a boost pin fitted, it smokes like hell if it's under load uphill, still pulls though but gives out normal smoke on flat road. Is this normal?

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Yes pretty normal. Like I say more boost will add more oxygen to burn but with doing that and any other mods you have to be careful with egt

Phew. Will a bigger intercooler cut smoke?

On another note you say a disco with standard Road tyres went past you, I assume you was in low box and had diff lock engaged?

yes i did, i thought a disco would be heavier than my 110 am i wrong ?
regards mick

gcleanmick said:

hi guys got a bit of a problem which is driving me mad, i fitted a boost pin on my 91 110 300 tdi and it made no difference what so ever, i was after more low down grunt. and last week had a new clutch fitted and have now got a loud whistling and more loss off power, there seems to be plenty of boost when you hold the pipes so could it be inter cooler but if so which is the best way to check. also when you floor it it kicks out a lot of black smoke which it never did before, is there any body really good with pumps near Rotherham willing to have a look.
much appreciated Mick

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Another example of what goes wrong when you mess with a Land Rover by bolting on crap aftermarket parts without any thought or knowledge of diesel plants I am afraid matey. Now your allowing more air without telling the ECU that you have changed the air / fuel ratio. Land Rover spent millions allowing your machine to run on the lowest grade fuel anywhere in the World and set for that. Now you have changed that development and allowing more air via a turbo boost. The ECU on a 300 TDI cannot be re mapped hence all your ratios are wrong. Black smoke is over fuel / struggling engine overload. Your turbo is whistling as its going too fast for engine speed, creates a back pressure and unburnt fuel.

Intercooler maybe blocked due to age but again its designed for that engine set up and to provide air at the correct temp for complete combustion under all conditions.

Look at the big picture of how an engine actually works instead of trying to make it do what you want when you actually have no control of its parameters.

The only land rover you can mess with is a Td5 as they are re mappable and then and only then you have to know what your doing or its a disaster . Take it off before you blow your engine, throw it in the bin.

A MESSAGE TO ALL IS LEAVE IT ALONE UNLESS YOU ACTUALLY KNOW HOW AN ENGINE WORKS AND HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE TO RE MAPP BY A PC SO YOU CAN SEE EXACTLY WHAT YOUR ENGINE IS DOING WITHOUT TRYING TO GUESS AND BOLT ON CRAP PARTS THAT PROMISE THE WORLD

hobroydharry said:

Another example of what goes wrong when you mess with a Land Rover by bolting on crap aftermarket parts without any thought or knowledge of diesel plants I am afraid matey. Now your allowing more air without telling the ECU that you have changed the air / fuel ratio. Land Rover spent millions allowing your machine to run on the lowest grade fuel anywhere in the World and set for that. Now you have changed that development and allowing more air via a turbo boost. The ECU on a 300 TDI cannot be re mapped hence all your ratios are wrong. Black smoke is over fuel / struggling engine overload. Your turbo is whistling as its going too fast for engine speed, creates a back pressure and unburnt fuel.

Intercooler maybe blocked due to age but again its designed for that engine set up and to provide air at the correct temp for complete combustion under all conditions.

Look at the big picture of how an engine actually works instead of trying to make it do what you want when you actually have no control of its parameters.

The only land rover you can mess with is a Td5 as they are re mappable and then and only then you have to know what your doing or its a disaster . Take it off before you blow your engine, throw it in the bin.

A MESSAGE TO ALL IS LEAVE IT ALONE UNLESS YOU ACTUALLY KNOW HOW AN ENGINE WORKS AND HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE TO RE MAPP BY A PC SO YOU CAN SEE EXACTLY WHAT YOUR ENGINE IS DOING WITHOUT TRYING TO GUESS AND BOLT ON CRAP PARTS THAT PROMISE THE WORLD

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I agree with the messing about bit but the tdi's dont have Ecu's the very late 300's had a basic Ecu for fly by wire and egr control everything is mechanical. Air flow and fuel aren't monitored by sensors or computers. Everything is done very simply. The wastegate is operated via pressure but physical pressure acting on the waste gate not a sensor telling an electric motor to open it.

The only trick to the tdi's is get them running well before modifying. If the power was down and smokey before hand then adding stuff to it won't fix it you need to start with the underlying issues.
You're getting too much fuel and too little air. The fuel pump needs to be reset to factory standards. Or as you say there is a whistle that means boost is escaping. As the fuel injector pump only gets a boost reading from the turbo it will fuel for the boost the turbo is making however if not all the boost is able to mix with the fuel because it's leaking you will be getting over fuelling.

Make sure your wastegate is opening fully and hasn't seized. Get some pliers and give it a pull it should be a little stiff on the spring but not excessively so.

As I said the higher gearing will make the engine work harder if you've got a good engine delivering the right power it will be ok I personally find it overgeared. If your engine isn't working properly, which by the sounds of things it isn't, then it will seem like it wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding. Which is a shame because rice pudding skin is disgusting.

There isn't an ecu on a 300tdi. Take off the egr too.

hey up again did you mean egr, if so that has already gone. what is the best way to get the pump back to factory set, also i would like to add i only added the boost pin from recommendations as i know very little about landrovers, and i have defiantly got to disagree with the rice pudding skin its bloody lovely
regards mick

In this video they talk about fuel adjustment and can explain it better than myself. The first bit explains fitting a boost pin.

Has the whistling stopped? Because unless you have a straight through exhaust or knackered turbo it shouldn't whistle loudly unless you have a boost leak so double check every Pipe from the turbo before messing with the pump.

I also really do believe that unless you need that top end then going back to the standard gearing will give a nice improvement. A lot of people run tdi's without the turbo in series land rovers and they don't feel underpowered.
But without actually driving it I couldn't tell you if it's normal or not the way the engine feels. But if you're new to land rovers they can feel slow depending on what you've been driving before.

a Another point of just thought of is that is your throttle cable adjusted correctly. It's a black circular thing on the pump end of the cable and you rotate to to slacken or tighten the cable. I have known the cable to stretch with age and it not be readjusted. So when you put your foot flat down you're only get about half throttle as you're taking up all the slack before you actually start injecting more fuel.

It wouldn't cause the smoking issue that's definitely incorrect pump timing.

Speaking of which has it always been like this? And was the timing belt recently changed before you got it? Someone may have set the injector pump timing slightly wrong. At TDC you should be able to get a 9mm drill bit in the injector pump timing gear slot at roughly 11 o clock position.