Best tool to remove ABS accumulator

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Bladerunner919

Active Member
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228
I need to change my accumulator (2.5 DSE). There are plenty of threads on the process, so that's not a problem. What I'm not certain of is what is the best tool to actually undo it with?

I've seen mention of strap wrenches, oil filter wrenches etc. What I'd really like to know, from those that have done the job, is what actually worked for you?

Thanks in advance!
 
Thanks! Does that grip the accumulator well enough on it's own, or do you need anything to stop it slipping - I'm thinking gaffer tape wrapped around the accumulator or something like that?
 
Don't they have a hex nut at the bottom?
 

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Well, that was probably the easiest job I have ever done on any car. Pumped the brakes to remove the pressure (and in the process freed off the steering wheel, which I think had been jammed and didn't move in and out previously!), easily unscrewed with a chain wrench and popped the new one on.

However, I still have a bit of a problem. Perviously the abs pump came in after every brake press, but now it's after every two presses rather that the bfive or so it should be. Admittedly I have done no further investigation, and didn't bleed the brakes, but any thoughts on where I should start?
 
Well, that was probably the easiest job I have ever done on any car. Pumped the brakes to remove the pressure (and in the process freed off the steering wheel, which I think had been jammed and didn't move in and out previously!), easily unscrewed with a chain wrench and popped the new one on.

However, I still have a bit of a problem. Perviously the abs pump came in after every brake press, but now it's after every two presses rather that the bfive or so it should be. Admittedly I have done no further investigation, and didn't bleed the brakes, but any thoughts on where I should start?

Should be no need to bleed brakes. Was the accumulator new? Maybe you got a duffer.
 
Yes, new from Island 4x4. I'll give them a bleed and see if that helps.

Unless you had air in the system previously, i cannot see how any amount that would cause that has entered the system changing the accumulator. Unless it's Nitrogen from the old accumulator.
 
So is there anything other than the accumulator that could cause the symptoms? Pressure switch, perhaps?

If there is no pressure in the system pump will run. When minimum operating pressure is reached (110 bar) the TC and brake warning lamps will go out. Pump will continue to run until 180 bar is reached then stop. After that pump will cycle between 140 bar (on) and 180 bar (off). I would go for the system bleed and see what you get, some of the lost Nitrogen from the duff accumulator maybe in the system. So more fluid from the accumulator will be used to compress that and fill the void on each application.
 
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