@resto_d1 - yep
- BH wax works ... must be 5 years since I did this sill - still no rust. As can be seen through the hole - it also works inside the cavity - a non rusty D1 sill - almost unheard of until BH came along 
Best anti-rust treatment for a patched D2 chassis
- Thread starter Stanleysteamer
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
@resto_d1 - yep
- BH wax works ... must be 5 years since I did this sill - still no rust. As can be seen through the hole - it also works inside the cavity - a non rusty D1 sill - almost unheard of until BH came along 
discodrivercumbria
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,317
- Location
- South lakes
not when mixed with hydrolic oil!
Nah, it's still crap - waste of good hydraulic oil too , ... and, .... Well, how environmentally unfriendly
discodrivercumbria
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,317
- Location
- South lakes
well ! it certainly has worked for me! every 12 months never had a problem, all the discos ive had are still on the road!Nah, it's still crap - waste of good hydraulic oil too , ... and, .... Well, how environmentally unfriendly
Royston 90
Active Member
- Posts
- 250
- Location
- Royston
Got to say another + 1 for Bilt Hamber syntax s50. After coating the inside of my chassis approx a year later I had to do some welding on inside rear chassis rail passenger side. When I cut it open it was still like new inside + you get really long nozzles that spray 360 inside your chassis rails & I was pleased to see it had done it`s job. I am going to continue doing a yearly top up.
- Posts
- 46,124
- Location
- East Dorset
Aha! Now this really is interesting! I was expecting to just buy the liquid and have to figure out the best way of getting a long spray on it.
In the past when I have used the waxoyl big tin that comes with a pump and spray I found that the spray was not doing 360 degrees, so I had to modify it and test it to heck to be sure.
I have a compressor, quite a big one, and it came with a typical kit of bits which I haven't looked at for ages, just got out what I needed and used that. So I may have a spray thing in there. I have read of others using a garden sprayer and that is what I use to get ATF into the auto box.
So I am keen to see what comes with the Bilt Hamber kit. You mention BH syntax s50. Others have said BH hydrate 80. Can anyone tell me the difference between the two or why they used one or the other?
Meanwhile I'll have a look at both on tinternet. Hope I can find em, but your personal experiences are so much more valuable than advertisers hype!
Incidentally I am more impressed than I expected to be with the work the welder has done. When the weather improves and I get to change the rear shocks I'll put pictures up of his work so you can give me your impressions.
Despite it taking him 2 1/2 hours (allegedly) to take the tank off, he still only charged me the originally quoted £200 +vat. So I am pleased on that front. He said he had to drill stuff out, but I could still see the (front?) captive bolts although they were loose. Never taken a tank off so I have no idea how tough it is. All I did was take the plate off in the load space and clean it all up around the pipe connections.
Anyway off to research how to solve the other problems, namely ATF leak from the input shaft into the auto box (?????) and its failure to start sometimes (not a real major problem this one.)
Cheers! And thanks for all your help!
Tis a typo - he means Dynax S-50 - info here:-
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50
this is a cavity protection wax
the underbody version is called Dynax UB :-
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80
This is a rust converter ....
In terms of application, I just buy the aerosols - even though I have the gear to apply the plain liquid - I find the aerosols easier, as you can put them in hot water before use - and then just put them away for the next time - no cleaning spray guns / schutz guns etc.... Also use no electric and make no noise .. and not too expensive in bulk.
- Posts
- 46,124
- Location
- East Dorset
Did wonder what the fu ck grammar had to do with rustproofing!!!
all info taken on board!
I’ve not been so clear sorry. The cavity wax comes with a 360 lance in aerosol form. You feed the lance in the chassis through different areas. Hydrate 80 is a rust converter that doesn’t require rinsing off. Any areas you have that you can get to, wire wheel off, hydrate 80 then primer n paint
- Posts
- 46,124
- Location
- East Dorset
resto you have been so helpful, thanks a lot! I will take all your advice into consideration and act accordingly. Agree about the shock mounts, seems obvious but too easy to miss if you are in a hurry. fortunately I have a bit of time before the MOT.
More pressing problem is the blessed ATF leak, in another thread!
Great thread, I was referred to it after mentioning the (apparently unpopular) Before N After underbody protection service. It's insanely expensive, maybe that's why it's not popular? But I read almost every page of their website and I can't find fault, the guy sounds like he knows his 5hit (in a big way) and passes my sniff test for BS and dishonesty. He sounds 100% genuine to me, and i think I am a pretty good judge. So if he isn't dishonest, he can only be wrong/misguided in some way. His CR coating was what I was considering for my D2. But a few poeple seem to think BeforeNAfter isnt a good option. I could do the bilthamber approach, no problem. But i don't have ramps or gear, so I would have to pay a friend to mess up his workshop and help me do it! That's what tempted me towards Before N After, that and the fact he seems to know his trade and also knows (from experience) where all the holes are to get treatment right inside those hard to reach areas. I think it's that experience and knowledge I was mainly interested in paying for.
If anyone has had bad experience of B 'N' A please let me know.
If anyone has had bad experience of B 'N' A please let me know.
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
I think if you do a search you will find he has posted on here himself with others who may have had a different thought on his work.
Cheers
Well I have searched high and low, for "Before N After" and "Before and after" and "Chris Parkinson". I found threads from those searches, and read them all cover to cover. I learned very little though. I only saw one post from the man himself which was offering some coastal rescue guy a discount in return for testimonials. That's about it. I am yet to find anyone saying "I went and had it done, it's ****", or of course the opposite!! Back to square one, but if anyone reads this and has actual experience to report, I would be glad to hear about it!
thanks
thanks
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
- Posts
- 1,851
- Location
- Swansea, Wales
The Dynax s50 can be applied on the drive no ramps from the can. I did mine last week and it was a piece of p. Only £50 for 3 cans and did chassis internals and sills.
By the way, someone in this post stated Fertan needs to be washed off. That’s nonsense. It forms a compound with the iron in the steel that can just be painted over.
Also, my D2 came treated in Mercausol with a bill for £550 from the PO. They did a crap job and i did better with dynax. So forget taking it to a garage, just use the Bilt Hamber cans.
By the way, someone in this post stated Fertan needs to be washed off. That’s nonsense. It forms a compound with the iron in the steel that can just be painted over.
Also, my D2 came treated in Mercausol with a bill for £550 from the PO. They did a crap job and i did better with dynax. So forget taking it to a garage, just use the Bilt Hamber cans.
- Posts
- 46,124
- Location
- East Dorset
Sh!t, guess what, when I eventually got the shocks and put them on I'd forgotten about this, so now I'll have to go back and do em when I find the time. So stupid, as I could have done it during lockdown after the MOT.
In the end I decided, for the time being, to use up the stock of Waxoyl I had. But the pump-spray thing didn't want to play and, being me, I got obsessed with making it work. Which delayed me to the point were I just got some in there thinned with white spirit and said to myself that later on i'll get the Bilthammer stuff and redo the job. At least, now the weather is hotter, andif, as you say it comes with all the necessary, I'll get on with it even if I have to get it sent out from the UK.
Cheers again folks.!
Sounds good!! Yeah I forgot too lol. There is about 5 coats of different paint under there too!
I’ve filled the d1 chassis with dynax all over the back 1 haven’t started the front yet. I was working on it the other day and had my hand in the chassis and it’s almost a rubberized film in there.
I’m booked in for the 90 to have the full dinitrol treatment including steam clean, needle gun then all the cavity wax and outer surface treatment. I saw one on the ramp at the place doing it and although it’s expensive (they have it for 3 days) it seems like a must before winter on it. Especially as chassis looks decent with only the rear crossmember going crusty. Welding in a new one prior to it going in
I’ve filled the d1 chassis with dynax all over the back 1 haven’t started the front yet. I was working on it the other day and had my hand in the chassis and it’s almost a rubberized film in there.
I’m booked in for the 90 to have the full dinitrol treatment including steam clean, needle gun then all the cavity wax and outer surface treatment. I saw one on the ramp at the place doing it and although it’s expensive (they have it for 3 days) it seems like a must before winter on it. Especially as chassis looks decent with only the rear crossmember going crusty. Welding in a new one prior to it going in
Bertie Wooster
Member
- Posts
- 74
- Location
- Midlands
Has anyone tried any Rustbuster products?
Similar threads
