@Henry_b I replaced the input on the wastegate actuator and all was well, the ECU had cut the boost violently and it was in some kind of limp state (which I didn't think existed on a manual).
@bankz5152 nothing mental, 26 psi.
Just out of interest!
The job you have done! (Well done btw ) how much if sent to garage??
Come on boost pretty sharpish?
My Forge one is decent but I feel the spring is a little hard. Currently boosts about 24psi with a bleed valve.
Grease will ALWAYS do this. Best if you possibly can to take the thing you want to grease apart. Only other thing is to at least take the thing off and move the constituent parts to ends of their travel while greasing.so I guess the grease forced it's way out the path of least resistance and never made it to the 2 cups that looked like this
You didn't fancy cutting through the webs on the Exhaust manifold to try and prevent the bugre from warping later on? As mine, and so many others have had?
Grease will ALWAYS do this. Best if you possibly can to take the thing you want to grease apart. Only other thing is to at least take the thing off and move the constituent parts to ends of their travel while greasing.
Many grease points don't have a permanent nipple, you are supposed to remove the tiny screw or bolt (2BA often) and then screw your own nipple in. There is nothing to stop you, if you really are that bothered, from drilling and tapping holes anywhere it won't compromise the strength of the part, then fitting blanking plugs, then taking them out and screwing in your own nipple when you wan to do the job. all you have to be carefull of is that the blanking plug is not long enough to foul anything. So if your UJ cups are fouling the nipple, you can unscrew it, work the cups all over the place, screw it back in again. Grease, then do it again and again until you are happy. The grease will only move under pressure so it won't squirt out all over the place!Unfortunately about the best that can be accomplished with this is to rotate the prop to the 4 quadrants in situ, but the grease gun and nipple foul the prop cups so it's impractical. I've seen UJ's in the US that have a nipple on each of the actual bearing cups, although not sure if they are available in the correct size for a landy prop.
Obviously you are allowed to spend more money on yours than I am! (Green grin!)Mine doesn't have webs, it's an Allisport uprated cast manifold.
I had the gaps at 3, 7 & 11 o'clock, I think this is only really a requirement for first start as the rings could obviously wander over time... I don't think I specifically set each corresponding ring on the different pistons to the same positions, I just ensured all 3 were 120 degrees apart. Hope that makes sense.
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