BennehBoy's D2 adventure

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So today I finally got round to trying to sort out the front DS drive shaft oil leak. MOT is on Monday so didn't want an advisory for it.

I've replaced the seal 3 times now including doing some shimming.

So I bought a used driveshaft to try sort it - the metal shield on mine was worn quite a bit....

After jacking up and putting an axle stand in the wheel came off, you can see the oil leak quite clearly (treated it to some gunk and a jet wash):
IMG_20140718_180258.jpg


Brake caliper and pads off:
IMG_20140718_181437.jpg


Caliper carrier off:
IMG_20140718_181453.jpg


Disk off:
IMG_20140718_181526.jpg


Hub nut off with the milwaukee:
IMG_20140718_181957.jpg


Pull hub off the shaft with 3 legged puller after undoing the 4 retaining bolts:
IMG_20140718_182953.jpg


Here's the metal shield, I'm convinced it's too deep on the shaft to seat against the seal:
IMG_20140718_183422.jpg


Pretty knarly axle tube, but the seal land is good, this is after pulling the old seal out and a bit of a clean:
IMG_20140718_184300.jpg


Old top, replacement bottom, you can see the shield is sat closer to the spline end.
IMG_20140718_184507.jpg


New seal inserted, used a 50mm socket, a seal pusher, a long punch for some finesse, and a FBH:
IMG_20140718_185934.jpg

IMG_20140718_190205.jpg


hub back on, disk on, caliper carrier on, pads in, caliper on, wheel on, drop off the stand and jack, then torque up the nut to 490nm and stake it:
IMG_20140718_193614.jpg
 
MOT tomorrow, sorted out the tilted steering wheel (shortened drag link), got rid of the SRS warning (just needed the connector to the rotary coupler pushing fully home).

And fitted the engine cover to hide the EGR delete... it's all looking a bit respectable under the bonnet now:
IMG_20140720_133911.jpg
 
Good luck wth the MOT Benneh. Mine is also tomorrow, but doing it a month early as I'm expecting it to fail on a couple of things. Will be hanging around while it's done so I can pick the testers brains and get to know the car a bit better.
 
MOT failed.

1) Number plate not vertical (stuck on plate that they passed last year ffs)
2) Rear NS trailing arm to chassis bush failed.

So not a disaster but the number plate thing is a bit of a joke.
 
I will give you the details of my tester next time we meet Benneh. You'll get none of that sort of nonsense from him.

If something is unsafe he will fail. If it is not, he may give an advisory. I got an advisory on one tyre, now changed.
 
I will give you the details of my tester next time we meet Benneh. You'll get none of that sort of nonsense from him.

If something is unsafe he will fail. If it is not, he may give an advisory. I got an advisory on one tyre, now changed.

Friends with a car that's in much worse state than mine just got a clean sheet at a different tester :/
 
So yesterday I had done about 150 miles of gentle driving, keeping the revs pretty varied.

Decided to see, briefly, how the car performed at the top end and was really quite dissapointed. Sluggish springs to mind.

Looking at my boost gauge the car is struggling to make 21psi, whereas 25psi was easily made before the rebuild.

Should I expect performance to increase as the rings bed in? Or is something 'up'?

All the boost hoses, vac lines, etc are good, as are all sensor readings.

My gut is telling me that it's the valves leaking - I was daft enough to not check them when I got the head back from the engineers that I paid to finish the lapping in.

Thoughts?
 
So yesterday I had done about 150 miles of gentle driving, keeping the revs pretty varied.

Decided to see, briefly, how the car performed at the top end and was really quite dissapointed. Sluggish springs to mind.

Looking at my boost gauge the car is struggling to make 21psi, whereas 25psi was easily made before the rebuild.

Should I expect performance to increase as the rings bed in? Or is something 'up'?

All the boost hoses, vac lines, etc are good, as are all sensor readings.

My gut is telling me that it's the valves leaking - I was daft enough to not check them when I got the head back from the engineers that I paid to finish the lapping in.

Thoughts?

Oh dear, it'd be a shame for you to open it up again :(
 
So yesterday I had done about 150 miles of gentle driving, keeping the revs pretty varied.

Decided to see, briefly, how the car performed at the top end and was really quite dissapointed. Sluggish springs to mind.

Looking at my boost gauge the car is struggling to make 21psi, whereas 25psi was easily made before the rebuild.

Should I expect performance to increase as the rings bed in? Or is something 'up'?

All the boost hoses, vac lines, etc are good, as are all sensor readings.

My gut is telling me that it's the valves leaking - I was daft enough to not check them when I got the head back from the engineers that I paid to finish the lapping in.

Thoughts?


Leaking valves would have a much bigger effect at low RPM so doubt it.

Check cam timing, hoses, also is the waste gate operating too soon.
 
Leaking valves would have a much bigger effect at low RPM so doubt it.

Check cam timing, hoses, also is the waste gate operating too soon.

What would that bigger effect be?

Cam timing was set with the flywheel locked TDC and the timing pin placed in the head - there's some wiggle adjustment on the cam sprocket, but what would I be looking for?
 
Hmmm, the allisport manifold I put on is supposed to improve flow, but surely not to the tune of 20-25%? And like I say, unless I'm imagining things, it just feels slower.
 
What would that bigger effect be?

Cam timing was set with the flywheel locked TDC and the timing pin placed in the head - there's some wiggle adjustment on the cam sprocket, but what would I be looking for?


Leaky valves are more noticable off idle than at high RPM.

So if it is flat at high RPM I doubt the valve seat is the issue
 
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