bearmach hawkeye ba5068????

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norfolk 1

norfolk 1

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i know somebody must have one of these on here,are they any good for a freelander facelift td4 05.ive got 3 diagonostic tools here,one i cant even use,the other two will certain data but not everything i want.so does the hawkeye do it all for my freelander.
does anybody rate these for fault diagnosis
 
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I have one - it's pretty good for My 05 TD4 Auto HSE - with extra dongle etc it's pretty comprehensive- google the Bearmach manual and see the menus to form a good view of what is covered for yourself - I can't comment versus other alternatives but I'm happy with mine
 
dfossil said:
I have one - it's pretty good for My 05 TD4 Auto HSE - with extra dongle etc it's pretty comprehensive- google the Bearmach manual and see the menus to form a good view of what is covered for yourself - I can't comment versus other alternatives but I'm happy with mine
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thanks im toying with buying one and i can chase the problems with my motor with a bit more focus
 
I have used one extensively on FL1's. You can see the video's on youtube. A Hawkeye can access all computers on a FL1, but some need an interface dongle. They no longer manufacture the Hawkeye. If you get the original type it will only work on vehicle types it's been licensed for. A FL1 is different to a FL2 for example. If you get the later Hawkeye Total it will be licensed for all vehicles it supports. Sadly, they no longer provide firmware updates.
 
Hippo said:
I have used one extensively on FL1's. You can see the video's on youtube. A Hawkeye can access all computers on a FL1, but some need an interface dongle. They no longer manufacture the Hawkeye. If you get the original type it will only work on vehicle types it's been licensed for. A FL1 is different to a FL2 for example. If you get the later Hawkeye Total it will be licensed for all vehicles it supports. Sadly, they no longer provide firmware updates.
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yep im having trouble with the ones i have here they seem to cover bits i dont need.none of them do fuel pressure so trying to find one which would give me all the info i needed for a 04 facelift freelander
 
norfolk 1 said:
yep im having trouble with the ones i have here they seem to cover bits i dont need.none of them do fuel pressure so trying to find one which would give me all the info i needed for a 04 facelift freelander
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The hawkeye gives access to all live data thats made available but the Td4 computer doesn't offer as much info as some of the others. Its down to what the manufactures made available which you can access with diagnostics. There's some Td4 video's on my youtube account.
 
Hippo said:
The hawkeye gives access to all live data thats made available but the Td4 computer doesn't offer as much info as some of the others. Its down to what the manufactures made available which you can access with diagnostics. There's some Td4 video's on my youtube account.
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very interesting i have the same problem with my fbh but what is capacitor 1 as the reading i have for that says 79.15v ????
 
My Icarsoft I930 gives low pressure and high pressure fuel readings, MAP pressure, MAF flow rate, capacitor voltage. engine temperature and that's about it. The TD4 EDC doesn't output any more live information than that, other than the MIL status, and codes for faults, which can also be reset, .
 
so im going to stick with this launch creader professional crp123,it seems to be more enlightened than i am.if i ever get this car sorted im going to keep it forever
 
Hippo said:
Don't know but i got the same cap value in this video. It show the full list available from the Td4 while driving
Click to expand...

It's the injector drive voltage, from the drive capacitor. An FL1 TD4 uses Piezoelectric injectors, which need high voltage and current to drive them.
The FL2 uses even higher injector drive voltages, something approaching 130 Volts. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
It's the injector drive voltage, from the drive capacitor. An FL1 TD4 uses Piezoelectric injectors, which need high voltage and current to drive them.
The FL2 uses even higher injector drive voltages, something approaching 130 Volts. ;)
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Ah, forgot about that. So the OP's value is correct compared to what I've seen on other Td4's.
 
Hippo said:
Ah, forgot about that. So the OP's value is correct compared to what I've seen on other Td4's.
Click to expand...
Indeed it is.
The FL1 TD4 has a capacitor voltage when new of around 90 Volts.
This voltage drops off slowly over time, due to degradation of the drive capacitor itself. However the injector drive will still function ok at 70 Volts, so at almost 80V, there nothing to worry about.
 
one thing i have noticed looking at hippo vids is my fuel pressure sensor readings are all over the place.when car is at standstill with key on but not started its .5.when ticking over its 1.28 but when im driving it with diagonstic the readings are all over the place they go as low as .8 but dont seem to climb above 1.50.im wondering if ive got a broken wire in there.ive had the same on racebikes standstill fine but when they get a bit of current through there erratic
 
norfolk 1 said:
one thing i have noticed looking at hippo vids is my fuel pressure sensor readings are all over the place.when car is at standstill with key on but not started its .5.when ticking over its 1.28 but when im driving it with diagonstic the readings are all over the place they go as low as .8 but dont seem to climb above 1.50.im wondering if ive got a broken wire in there.ive had the same on racebikes standstill fine but when they get a bit of current through there erratic
Click to expand...

The original rail harness suffered from corrosion, bit most should have been replaced by now.
If the rail harness has a green plug, then it's probably corroded and requires replacing with the overly harness that's available.
 
norfolk 1 said:
one thing i have noticed looking at hippo vids is my fuel pressure sensor readings are all over the place.when car is at standstill with key on but not started its .5.when ticking over its 1.28 but when im driving it with diagonstic the readings are all over the place they go as low as .8 but dont seem to climb above 1.50.im wondering if ive got a broken wire in there.ive had the same on racebikes standstill fine but when they get a bit of current through there erratic
Click to expand...
Is the value good when it's stationary on tick over only?
 
yes values seem good when stationary but when im out and driving i have the problems.i had diagonstic on today and was checking live feed as much as possible when the engine light came on 6 times in 30 miles and 50 mph was top whack in top gear.i was amazed at how erratic the voltage readings were
 
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