Hello All,
2004 Land Rover Range Rover HSE with some battery drain problems let me be as detailed as possible. I got a Diehard Platnum battery put in on 9/22. I've taken it to a mechanic 3-4 times in total since acquiring the vehicle for a battery drain. I've had the blow motor resistor replaced 3 times, however, I bought a BEHR myself and will install it myself soon as I believe they put a cheaper one in there. This drain only really becomes bad in the wintertime the summer it will last longer obviously. Massachusetts gets pretty cold so. This summer I took it to the mechanic and found out my glove box light was always on as the wires were touching keeping the power constantly going. I went on Vacation in August and pulled fuse 27,28 and the cigarette lighter out as I saw on forums to do that. When I came back it started up with no problem. Now however it's back and a little worse.
Just like normal the battery will die overnight or if I'm lucky two days of being charged. I've watched the light on the center console it goes off within the normal time so it is going to sleep. I've come to find out that fuse 27 which is supposed to control the glove box light, interior lights, and windshield washers for some reason when plugged in turns the blower and the fan behind the AC controls. Is that normal for people? It also seems to control the light on the console and if it's not plugged in the red light will never show up nor will the AC or heat work at all. Recently within the past few weeks if I have the battery charging while connected to the vehicle the battery seems to not either charge fully or keep the charge as it cranks over very weakly. I took the battery out and took it to AutoZone to have it tested itself and it said it was holding 12 or so volts, but it went down to 10-11 when load tested. The guy said it was normal for that to happen, but I'm not so sure. I've had it charging out of the car still and will update how it is when I put it back in. Last thing. I've seen on some forums to disconnect the headlight washer pump and I'm also working on that. I haven't gone into it yet, but I've seen videos of connectors on top of the pumps. Do I just take the entire pump out or is there a thing at the top that I can just disconnect? Any more suggestions on things I should look at or do to fix this ongoing problem?
2004 Land Rover Range Rover HSE with some battery drain problems let me be as detailed as possible. I got a Diehard Platnum battery put in on 9/22. I've taken it to a mechanic 3-4 times in total since acquiring the vehicle for a battery drain. I've had the blow motor resistor replaced 3 times, however, I bought a BEHR myself and will install it myself soon as I believe they put a cheaper one in there. This drain only really becomes bad in the wintertime the summer it will last longer obviously. Massachusetts gets pretty cold so. This summer I took it to the mechanic and found out my glove box light was always on as the wires were touching keeping the power constantly going. I went on Vacation in August and pulled fuse 27,28 and the cigarette lighter out as I saw on forums to do that. When I came back it started up with no problem. Now however it's back and a little worse.
Just like normal the battery will die overnight or if I'm lucky two days of being charged. I've watched the light on the center console it goes off within the normal time so it is going to sleep. I've come to find out that fuse 27 which is supposed to control the glove box light, interior lights, and windshield washers for some reason when plugged in turns the blower and the fan behind the AC controls. Is that normal for people? It also seems to control the light on the console and if it's not plugged in the red light will never show up nor will the AC or heat work at all. Recently within the past few weeks if I have the battery charging while connected to the vehicle the battery seems to not either charge fully or keep the charge as it cranks over very weakly. I took the battery out and took it to AutoZone to have it tested itself and it said it was holding 12 or so volts, but it went down to 10-11 when load tested. The guy said it was normal for that to happen, but I'm not so sure. I've had it charging out of the car still and will update how it is when I put it back in. Last thing. I've seen on some forums to disconnect the headlight washer pump and I'm also working on that. I haven't gone into it yet, but I've seen videos of connectors on top of the pumps. Do I just take the entire pump out or is there a thing at the top that I can just disconnect? Any more suggestions on things I should look at or do to fix this ongoing problem?
only 22. 99% of the time its just me hoping into the car and hoping out. I haven't measured what it is when you unlock and open the door. I have noticed that last winter I could tell if the battery was basically dead as when I unlocked the car it would sound very slow and weak. Now after removing some of the fuses it's never weak and it unlocks strong but it wont crank over.
" on TV. Also, I have 2 chargers. One is a 4 amp and another is a 2 amp and a 10 amp and I've been using the 10 amp charger. I've noticed when watching the meter when in the car charging the needle will continuously bounce. I don't remember exactly where it stops but it goes from the middle then bounces down to the left side and it continues to do that. Since it's been out charging it has not done that once. I don't know if that means anything.
