Bankz's 110 Double Cab

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Cool! Yeah keep it up man doing well with the lanes, i dont have the patience lol.

Tbh if I where you id cut the LR connector off and fit a new one, wire that into your new bar! That or find a connector that will fit and carry on. That way you havnt got to fork out for the LR stuff!

Yeah mate welcome to come have a look, like I said they wont be fitted until I have the cage fitted! Just going to wire em up to test. Once i have ill drop you a message.
 
bankz5152 said:
Cool! Yeah keep it up man doing well with the lanes, i dont have the patience lol.

Tbh if I where you id cut the LR connector off and fit a new one, wire that into your new bar! That or find a connector that will fit and carry on. That way you havnt got to fork out for the LR stuff!

Yeah mate welcome to come have a look, like I said they wont be fitted until I have the cage fitted! Just going to wire em up to test. Once i have ill drop you a message.
Click to expand...

cheers mate , look forward hearing from u when you've got it set up

found some companies that sell the land rover connectors but if not will indeed just cut them off

can also for another switch inside, that allows spots to be fitted

pain though as i believe i have to activate the thing through a computer to tell them they are there,

got a iid computer thank christ , is a pain having to turn things in and off , lol

think it will take me a while finding some lanes, getting permissions etc , but once i've found them will indeed let u guys know
 
Awesome! I think theres a few around canterbury and sittingbourne that are pretty decent! Though avoid Hollingbourne and Eynesford too tight for a 90, a D3 would be shredded!

Ahh thats a bit long! Though i suppose worth it to have everything OEM.
 
bankz5152 said:
Awesome! I think theres a few around canterbury and sittingbourne that are pretty decent! Though avoid Hollingbourne and Eynesford too tight for a 90, a D3 would be shredded!

Ahh thats a bit long! Though i suppose worth it to have everything OEM.
Click to expand...

thks

will indeed when i find some to send a pm to the relevant members

won't wish to put locations onto an open forum , lol

also thought about getting a lhd loom as a lot of them get sold for next to nothing , seeing people wish to just get rid of them

done that with the hippo , bought a complete oem lhd loom complete with relays etc for less than 50 quid, only had to extend 3 x wires

does seem a lot harder doing alterations with the d3 , but must admit is lovely to drive

got the pleasure of trying to replace the air tank soon , oh joy , christ the wheels are heavy , lol

think u learn the talent of struggling on ur own when owning a landy , :D
 
You really do! haha. I feel your pain on the wheels, mine weigh a ton and are so bloody big it makes it a real pain to remove and refit!

I imagine the D3 is tough, i do love em tho
 
bankz5152 said:
You really do! haha. I feel your pain on the wheels, mine weigh a ton and are so bloody big it makes it a real pain to remove and refit!

I imagine the D3 is tough, i do love em tho
Click to expand...

can imagine the wheels on urs are also like lifting a bag of concrete

if you've never driven a D 3 ur more than welcome to have a drive of mine if u wish , to see what there like

can even hear the radio, lol
 
gstuart said:
can imagine the wheels on urs are also like lifting a bag of concrete

if you've never driven a D 3 ur more than welcome to have a drive of mine if u wish , to see what there like

can even hear the radio, lol
Click to expand...

Ooooo thats very kind! id love to. Only driven me mums RR, a D1 and 90/110.

Hearing the radio? what is this magic!
 
So looking at new front bumpers, which has been 3 days of searching.. bar a bespoke one I think the Equipe 4x4 Modular Bumper is the front runner, so far. Only thing putting me off is the near £800 price tag... Any experiences? What do you all think?





I would like to fit an A-Bar of some kind, so I can keep my big ass spots
 
Bits arrived!



Finally got a new Pipercross filter, direct from them this time, considerably better than the old one. Fitted.

Liteway Phillips LED bars, these will be mounted on the roll cage when ever that gets fitted. Quickly tested them, they are damn bright! and very focused, very impressed.

Decided to start the soundproofing process today, thought it would be a pretty straight forward days work. I was wrong...



Turns out there is som pretty serious aliuminium corrosion around the lower seat brackets.






:(:( Picking up some 3mm ali sheet tomorrow and some pop rivets. Should be able to repair it.



None the less began laying the Fatmat MegaMat where the ali was solid.
 
Long day today!! Been working hard repairing the ali corrosion, tough work.... While it is bad it can be repaired, at least for now. However I expect I will replace the panel in the future.

Lumiweld did a pretty good job of the passenger side, just need some ali sheet to finish it off.






Used a scrap bit of ali to support the Lumiweld while I filled the holes.

Corroded section cut out -



Couldnt get any ali today so will have to order some, in the meantime i continued with the soundproofing. Floor, back of the tub, one raer arch and back of the front seatbox all lined. I made sure not to cover any seams or screws so I can remove bits if I need to.



Began repairs on the drivers side as well. However the holes where a little too big to use Lumiweld I tried for about 3 hours with not much luck. So instead cut a small peice of ali, painted it, covered in Sikaflex and bonded it to the rear of the seatbox. Setting in place now and should provide a solid hold.

Had what I think is a good idea! Once I paint the ali sheet and its dry i thought i could cover both the front and back with some fatmat, should prevent any more corrosion from happening!
 
Last edited:
looking good mate

is always satisfying when a plan comes together

don't forget if u ever need a hand don't struggle on ur own and give me a shout

always happy to help out a fellow member
 
Good to see lots more impressive work. Love the look of those light bars. Very tempted to get a 42" one for my truck.

Know the original sound deadening and carpet is wet throughout my D1 so it's all gonna have to come out.
I'm preparing for the worst rust wise but once that's sorted I like the idea of fitting the same stuff you had. Where did you get it from if you don't mind me asking?
 
Thanks :D Land Rovers idea of soundproofing is utterly ridiculous considering they can't make one water tight... The always use open cell foam which traps water and causes rust!

I used Fatmat MegaMat in the 110 its nice and thick and should provide some excellent sound deadening. I did use Rattletrap in my 90 which was also pretty good. Then layered on top will be a mixture of 3mm & 6mm CLOSED cell foam which does not trap water from this guy. Depending on where in the 110 rubber matting or carpet will be layered over the top of that.

The Fatmat is effectively the same as Dynamat just considerably cheaper and imo actually better. This will reduce rattle and vibration (very present in Landys!) as well as keeping heat in and cold out. The closed cell foam will insulate and absorb other road noise. I managed to reduce the overall noise in 90 by at least half!
 
A lot of very good information there thanks.
I'm aware I need to get mind stripped sooner rather than later as it's soaked.
Might leave it till the summer before I fit anything to replace it.
As I have a commercial D1 I'm thinking fitting the front part with sound deadening, foam and carpet.
Then use the bottom part of the dog guard as it's solid metal and instead of the mesh top half use wood with a hatch so I can keep the front warm but still access the back from inside.

Then maybe just fit sound deadening to the back to protect the metal work from kit being thrown around.
 
After doing my girlfriends front pads (garage wanted £400!!! :eek::eek:) took me 30 mins... Got working hard on soundproofing the rear section and cutting the repair plates. Need to get some replacement bolts which im having a tough time, shall try again tomorrow...

Ali plate, has since been sprayed with 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of hammerite and a final coat of matt black.



On top of the FatMat MegaMat goes 3mm self adhesive closed cell foam over the entire area



Then over some 6mm closed cell foam goes over the arches and rear of the tub using high temp spray glue.



Also covered the rear of the front seat box with Fatmat and 3mm foam, carpet stuck back down with some double sided tape.

Overall pretty hard work, doesnt look pretty persey but who cares no one but me will see that once the seats are back in. Should really quiet the rear down. Plus ive got so much Fatmat left (bought 50sq/ft) at least 60 - 70% so should have more than enough to do the front when the time comes.

Tomorrow will be securing the repair plates in place and providing I get some bolts the seats. If not then the rear drawer will go back in, this time I have some proper self tappers not the bull**** from Halfords. I do need to fit some kind of locking mech tho, under hard braking the drawer flys forward :rolleyes:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Pillar
Defender 110 REMOVE: 110 Double Cab Canopy
Replies
3
Views
923
doriz
doriz
G
Small Holes in the Load Bay of Defender 110 Double-Cab
Replies
5
Views
464
dag019
dag019
seldom
2011 to 2009 Front
Replies
2
Views
243
seldom
seldom
7
110 pick up advice
Replies
15
Views
863
V8bob
V
C
Truck cab fitting help
Replies
10
Views
554
Chonker
C
Back
Top