Bankz's 110 Double Cab

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4 pin pegged front is about the same cost as the pegged Ash ATB. HD CwP is obvs more.

Hes a lovely chap, always happy for a phone call/chat and builds some brilliant things! Got a lot of very rare diff parts too!

For me the ATB has been outstanding. Taken hills/tracks/bomb holes etc.. now that took less power/effort to get thru. With the ATB the 110 sails thru near enough anything.

Also much less work as no comp/hoses/wiring/switches to be fitted and it works excellently in tandem with my T/C. Soon as that light comes on the rear is locked, even crossaxled (or no TC) touch of left foot braking and it locks up. Plus it was a fair bit cheaper for the ATB instead of a locker!
 
Mrs wanted a mirror in the visor, had a look around the Defender one is £16 :eek:

Got basically the same off ebay for £3 fits perfectly.
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I'm surprised you haven't upgraded to a dash cam rearview and use the phone as your satnav to save all that clutter in the windscreen.

One of our fitters has a great dash cam with twin cameras mounted in each top corner of the screen with a screen display and recorder that is stuck to the dash itself, he bought it so he could use it as a cam at either end on the split screen display but he thought better of it and has the cameras mounted to best catch the side views of the vehicle.
 
Quite cool. When its actually in place you barely notice its there. Didnt bother with a rearview/duel view one as the rear window will be tinted soon and it wouldnt be able to see out the back.

As for phone it needs a a 4g signal, which I dont always have, it rinses data, rinses battery, notifications pop up and block the screen or become distracting + ive found Google maps takes a while to update compared to the TomTom and I cant use it in Europe due to datacharges...

So TomTom it is and it works for free, almost anywhere. Only time it failed me was the deepest darkest Wales.
 
Cage work has begun! Removed both wings in around 2hrs30. Surprisingly wasnt too difficult.

Offside off, pretty simple. Removed the extended arch, snorkel and rubber inner liner (aftermarket I think, with the arches). Gave me plenty of access to all of the bolts which to my surprise where not seized in anyway. Best part is the air intake hole made for excellent access to the bulkhead/wing bolts. These came off with a 14mm socket. The rest of the surrounding bolts where 11mm.

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Nearside outer wing was a little more difficult to remove, took a little longer. Best to remove the inner heater cowl and wing top grill, gives good access to 3 of the bolts. One of which is quite tight behind the washer bottle, best to use an 11mm ratchet spanner.

Mainly due to the bulkhead/wing bolts which are 13.5mm heads? :confused::confused::confused: 13mm socket wouldnt fit, 14mm socket just span, 9/16th didnt fit either. Manged to get it off in the end by hammering a 13mm socket on :rolleyes:

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Also removed about 2kg of mud!!

Could anyone ID these connectors and this dohickey?

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Ahhh that would make sense. The the horn is below and in front (which I've now moved to avoid it being full of expanding foam etc...)

One I think is for adjustable headlights as I had them on my 90 but the large one (was tied out the way) and the 3 pin connector no idea, only present on the nearside.
 
hahahaha Im not that ridiculous anymore :p:p:p

Does remind me of a post I read a fair few years ago of someone stating "as long as it has fuel and air the engine will run, should do it no problem" They where referring to trying to drive from UK to France, underwater... o_Oo_Oo_Oo_O

Cage arrives tomorrow! Not sure what time! Though I have already found a potentially issue... The front bolt in bracket requires a bolt in the outrigger to be removed, bracket fitted and bolted back in place. This bolt had to be undone (on the other side) in order to fit my rock sliders, which the bolt runs through and bolted up again. Which effectively reduces the length of the bolt. If you see what I mean? I'm hoping the bolt will still fit and I won't have to source longer ones...
 
Quite cool. When its actually in place you barely notice its there. Didnt bother with a rearview/duel view one as the rear window will be tinted soon and it wouldnt be able to see out the back.

As for phone it needs a a 4g signal, which I dont always have, it rinses data, rinses battery, notifications pop up and block the screen or become distracting + ive found Google maps takes a while to update compared to the TomTom and I cant use it in Europe due to datacharges...

So TomTom it is and it works for free, almost anywhere. Only time it failed me was the deepest darkest Wales.


Get Sygic on your 'phone - maps are all installed (for the areas that you buy) at the initial big install. After that the only data is traffic warnings.

There are some 'fun' add-ons like head up display and dashcam (if the camera can see the road from your mount).

I've used it for about five years, it has it faults as they all do, but it's the best I've used. Definitely beats the £600 Garmin I bought for the boat but is meant to do roads!
 
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