Just the usual won't start when hot. And when it's hot you put it in drive and it won't rev until you get rolling along and stalls when coming to a stop. It's ok when cold.
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- Thread starter paulcl09
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Classic of fuel quantity servo problem. Nanocom would give you a list of stored faults. Not starting hot can be as simple as static timing but could be a few other things. You need to know the timing modulation at idle engine up to temp. That would tell you how much correction is being applied to the timing solenoid to give your 2 degrees start of injection point. Modulation should be between 45 and 55 % engine hot at idle. If it's more than that static is retarded The higher the % the more retarded it is, but you really do need to pull the fault codes, if it's doing what you say (stalling) there must be some. You need to know the lift pump is actually working also.
Just replaced lift pump. The only fault is a glow plug fault. I have another pump going to swap it over on Wednesday. I done the timing chains so no slack there and all was timed up correctly. It just gets worse as the engine warms up.
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Glow plug fault is not going to make it stall nor effect hot starts. So you are changing injection pump let us know if that cures it.
Will do. Pretty sure it's the pump. If I cool it down with water it starts again. If it doesn't if fix it then I dont know what it is.
ovalandrover
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Are you sure it was not the engine temp sensor that caused that and not the ECU temp sensor?
There is no vacuum pump in the injection pump, there is a pressure pump though.
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ovalandrover
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I only changer the ECU sensor and still have the original engine sensor in it all and when fitted cured all the gearbox change problems
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Ok, will have to take your word for it. But if the glow lamps are working when cold, and their active period changes with ambient temp, and when the engine gets hot they are cut off. The ECU temp sensor would be changing state and doing it's job. Only time i have heard of a temp sensor causing this kind of problem was on here a while back, when someone had retro fitted an engine from a Vectra or Beemer and it had the wrong engine temp sensor fitted. It was fitted with a brown single wire sensor and needed a blue two wire sensor. Can't remember the exact details, but it was a drawn out thread until we hit on the cause. When the sensor was changed all was well. Just to add. The only interfaces from ECM to GB ECU are from pin 40 ECM to pin 47 GB ECU (throttle angle). And to ECM pin 43 from GB ECU pin 32 (torque reduction). All other interfaces to GB ECU seem to be from BECM or transfer ECU. If the ECM temp sensor fails a preset of 50 degrees is used for fuelling purposes. Can't see how it can effect gear changes but you live and learn if it does.
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Strange things happens when both engine coolant temperature and fuel temperature sensors are dead, as fuel temp sensor is also used as backup for engine coolant temp sensor. Gear changes are controlled by engine torque, engine speed and throttle position sensor. Torque is controlled by fuelling, hence why it goes mad when correct fuelling strategy can't be selected and then it's stuck in "warming up" condition(gear changes are higher in rev range on cold engine and this is normal behavior).
Tap the pump top(actutator - loosen 3 lower and one special upper bolt slightly before doing it) towards bulkhead, with 16mg per stroke on hot engine it wouldn't climb even 20mm curb.
Around 5-6mg per stroke is correct for healthy pump, if it doesn't help, replace pump.
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It will be, playing with them is never really successful they need to be set up on a test rig. If the quantity servo goes dicky there is nothing you can do, you just have to bite the bullet and change the pump for a known good one or get a refurb done.
I ment the pump timing that's all not playing with anything else it's finally working so I'm happy. Going to give the compressor and valve block new seals next and a new air bag on the rear as I burst it.
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