L322 Anyone want to watch an L322 burn?

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Oh one other thing. It's not just a Range Rover, it's an L322, this is what they do. They are sweet for a while, then overnight become a bitch, then become sweet again before being a bitch for a while. It's a vicious circle. You need to stop getting wound up by her, or you're going to give yourself a heart attack ;)
 
So which Land Rover model is the least **** in terms of reliability, ease and cost to repair?
 
I, many years ago had a similar 2.25 petrol and trust me, it was Not reliable.
I used to have to do the tappets and points gap on a weekly basis. And that's on top of fixing whatever bit decided to fall off that week!
 
Yeah, but at least normally you could fix it with a bag full of wet spanners and a hammer. I could.....usually......errrrr....except the time it dropped a valve and No 3 cylinder exploded.....and then there was the time a half shaft snapped......oh yeah and the time the fanbelt snapped and I had no spare (having stopped to help another Landy owner the week before......and I'd forgotten the broken off gear-lever time..........
But we all love our Landies, don't we!!!!!
 
Pluribus said:
I've just got back from the specialist. he could only have a very quick look as they were closing when I got there just before 9am due to one of them having a heart attack this morning!

He reckoned it was the belt tensioner, worst case a power steering pump. At most £300. I mentioned all the fault codes and he said its deffo not misfiring so he would clear them all. He said the engine itself sounds fine.

Right now I've simmered down from "Active Hate" to "Strong Dislike". Let's see how I feel when the damn thing is fixed. Again...
Click to expand...

Might be worth changing the pump fluid?
 
Pluribus said:
I've just got back from the specialist. he could only have a very quick look as they were closing when I got there just before 9am due to one of them having a heart attack this morning!

He reckoned it was the belt tensioner, worst case a power steering pump. At most £300. I mentioned all the fault codes and he said its deffo not misfiring so he would clear them all. He said the engine itself sounds fine.

Right now I've simmered down from "Active Hate" to "Strong Dislike". Let's see how I feel when the damn thing is fixed. Again...
Click to expand...
One thing that is of major importance if you are going to own a Range Rover, have some spanner skills and don't want to finance your nearest indi.. get diagnostics for the RR.. a full version non specific is helpful and a good interim, but really any RR owner who wants a good working machine, not run it into the graound and pass it on as a breaker needs diagnostics
 
I do have my own fault scanner, but nothing decent. It seems to do the job though. I've done quite a bit myself on this and my freelander, but no car has ever given me as much trouble in such a short space of time, nor cost as much to put right...
 
And this morning.....turn the ignition and just one click. Given the alternator issues I've had and the worst mobile mechanic ever I'm guessing a new alternator needed. Might explain the air suspension issue as well.

The car, which is now called the Spastic, must have sensed I was going to look at new cars today as the game of will it work today is getting boring . So let's be a spastic and now I'm stuck at home . Can't even burn it as it's on the drive too close to the house. Although I could go all Michael Douglas on it (Falling Down) and get the shotgun out
 
"You pull that pin, extend the tube, look down the sights and push that button"
"What, this button here?" - click.....WOOSSSHHHHH.........
"Oopssss"..........."BOOOOMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!"
.
.
Did that fix it, or do we have a Range Rover shaped mushroom cloud....
 
Why is it gurgling ?? Has it been bled properly ? Any leaks ?

RAVE bleed procedure is exactly the same as every other PAS system, i.e. check fluid level, then turn from lock to lock a few times. It also says "Caution: Do not hold steering at full lock for longer than 10 seconds", which is in every vehicle manual I have ever seen.

But definitely start with Fluid & Belt check.
 
There are no leaks at all. I've not bled it, nor had the need to. When I got to the garage yesterday he looked at the power steering fluid and the reservoir was full.

I dont usually use full lock at all (no need to around here), but had to the other day and thats when I heard it. Thats also when the electrics started acting up and it threw up 5 fault codes at the same time.
 
Pluribus said:
There are no leaks at all. I've not bled it, nor had the need to. When I got to the garage yesterday he looked at the power steering fluid and the reservoir was full.

I dont usually use full lock at all (no need to around here), but had to the other day and thats when I heard it. Thats also when the electrics started acting up and it threw up 5 fault codes at the same time.
Click to expand...
Hang on, full lock causes noises and electrical faults? That's too much of a coincidence not to be something to do with the belt system.
Slack belt, extra load on pump makes it slip and thus low voltage as alternator doesn't deliver full charge. Seems most likely explanation to me.
 
Ah now if you have power problems ,maybe just maybe the alternator might be over or under charging a dying battery and putting extra strain on the belt and turning the steering is the last straw so to speak:rolleyes:;)....
 
Had a similar problem on a ford Scorpio a long long time ago The car would judder and cut out on full lock. Changed the oil pressure regulator with no joy. Long story turned out a plug lead wasnt sitting on the plug properly, but enough to fool me all was ok on the engine front.
Have you had a bash in it as it look like the front light isnt sitting flush?
I had a p38 for 12 years and the L322 now for 6 months They are a constant battle as one fault can start another if you dont sort out pronto.
 
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