Anyone in leicester with a nanocom please

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ohm meter test while lock is still attached.
as i have no idea hoe to get it out without damaging anything else for now.
it was disconnected from the doorpack.
i did use the sound of the ohm meter. seems easy.
Wire colours for vehicles with wiring loom coming out of door latch (approx. 1996 onwards)

CDL Test:
Positive Probe: Red Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Move CDL switch down (sill lock button down)
Meter Open Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

CDL Test 2:
Positive Probe: Red Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Move CDL switch up (sill lock button up)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -

ohm meter makes beep when the latch on the door is up in unlocked status.
Nothing when down in locked status
….................................................................................................................
Key Switch Test**:

Positive Probe: White Wire
Probe: Black Wire Move
Key Switch down (turn key left in door)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

Key Switch Test 2**:
Positive Probe: White Wire
Negative Probe:Black Wire
Move Key Switch up (turn key right in door) Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -
turning the key to either side lock or unlock will make beep.
.................................................................................................................
Door Ajar Switch Test:
[ositive Probe: Blue Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire Door
Open (unlatched)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

Door Ajar Switch Test 2:
positive Probe: Blue Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Door Closed (Latched)
Meter Open Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -

latch open unlocked / up position position it will make the beep sound
latch close lock position / down it will beep
…...................................................................................................................
CDL Motor:

Positive Probe: Purple
Negative Probe: Green
Resistance: 4Ω ‐ 20Ω

Superlock Motor:

Positive Probe: Pink
Negative Probe: Green
Resistance: 30Ω ‐ 1.3KΩ

result -
unknowen as no idea what to use on settings
…................................................................................................................
Wire colours for vehicles with vehicle wiring loom plugging directly into latch (approx. 1994 ‐ 1996)

I do not have those colours.

so .. what dos all that mean ? switch broke ? not broke ?
 
yes i believe the cdl switch. one of the test on the door lock manuel point of no connection. the key test dos but not the latch test. so guess that is the culprint while the car dosnt like me to put the eka in.
 
Yes. And the cdl one gives only 3 connections out of 4.
Just need to find how to source one of them cdl switches for the doorpack - if the gurus on here regarding this results confirm my suspecion - and get the module out replace the cdl and it should work to put this stupid eka back in to get the car going.

Trying to avoid buying the whole unit to save money on it for now.
 
tyke100 said:
ohm meter test while lock is still attached.
as i have no idea hoe to get it out without damaging anything else for now.
it was disconnected from the doorpack.
i did use the sound of the ohm meter. seems easy.
Wire colours for vehicles with wiring loom coming out of door latch (approx. 1996 onwards)

CDL Test:
Positive Probe: Red Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Move CDL switch down (sill lock button down)
Meter Open Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

CDL Test 2:
Positive Probe: Red Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Move CDL switch up (sill lock button up)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -

ohm meter makes beep when the latch on the door is up in unlocked status.
Nothing when down in locked status
….................................................................................................................
Key Switch Test**:

Positive Probe: White Wire
Probe: Black Wire Move
Key Switch down (turn key left in door)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

Key Switch Test 2**:
Positive Probe: White Wire
Negative Probe:Black Wire
Move Key Switch up (turn key right in door) Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -
turning the key to either side lock or unlock will make beep.
.................................................................................................................
Door Ajar Switch Test:
[ositive Probe: Blue Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire Door
Open (unlatched)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

Door Ajar Switch Test 2:
positive Probe: Blue Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Door Closed (Latched)
Meter Open Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -

latch open unlocked / up position position it will make the beep sound
latch close lock position / down it will beep
…...................................................................................................................
CDL Motor:

Positive Probe: Purple
Negative Probe: Green
Resistance: 4Ω ‐ 20Ω

Superlock Motor:

Positive Probe: Pink
Negative Probe: Green
Resistance: 30Ω ‐ 1.3KΩ

result -
unknowen as no idea what to use on settings
…................................................................................................................
Wire colours for vehicles with vehicle wiring loom plugging directly into latch (approx. 1994 ‐ 1996)

I do not have those colours.

so .. what dos all that mean ? switch broke ? not broke ?
Click to expand...


You really don’t make it easy for anybody that can help. I find that so jumbled that it’s really difficult to make sense.
Why not say as per test sheet #1, result =............ and attach said sheet, (which we all know but). Or print the sheet and write the result, scan and post.

post a pic of your meter and then we can sort the last test for you.

I am sorry but you get confusing sometimes. It’s such an easy thing to check.

Or is it just me;)

J
 
marjon said:
You really don’t make it easy for anybody that can help. I find that so jumbled that it’s really difficult to make sense.
Why not say as per test sheet #1, result =............ and attach said sheet, (which we all know but). Or print the sheet and write the result, scan and post.

post a pic of your meter and then we can sort the last test for you.

I am sorry but you get confusing sometimes. It’s such an easy thing to check.

Or is it just me;)

J
Click to expand...
Not just you mate and pre dicktive text or bad spelling doesn't help,
 
marjon said:
You really don’t make it easy for anybody that can help. I find that so jumbled that it’s really difficult to make sense.
Why not say as per test sheet #1, result =............ and attach said sheet, (which we all know but). Or print the sheet and write the result, scan and post.

post a pic of your meter and then we can sort the last test for you.

I am sorry but you get confusing sometimes. It’s such an easy thing to check.

Or is it just me;)

J
Click to expand...

No it's not just you...out of depth springs to mind as Iv'e said before on their other threads...wait till the Nanocom arrives!...
 
marjon said:
Did I not say that up there^^^^ somewhere :)

J
Click to expand...

Probably yes...and this is the same P38 that they want to switch off ABS with a bypass and also remove front and rear bumpers and fit bullbars to push race cars around according to other threads..
 
i dont bloody know how to explain the test result according to that test sheet.
all i done is copy and paste then put result under it.
to me ohm meter and testing stuff is not what i am used to do.
yes wait until the nanocom arrives then start sourcing part numbers and stuff - and what till then?
looking at it and getting more and more angry about it?
sorry but a non running car is a non good car.
i also dont like to wait till it rains. i dont work in the rain on a car. so i have only limited time to get it back running.
i have no intention like some of you paying hundreds in a car. not a new not an old one.

i know rr have there own brains but even doors on that thing has his own mind.
and i try to find out what the problem is - simple. and if i can prevent this from happen again by modifying the problem - if i find a way - i will.
i start wondering if anything is proper build on it or all just connected with plastic and glue.

i taken advice on board and did this test - then posted the result.
seems some of you guys just here to give stupid un - productive comments. others at least help.

it dosnt say anything to anyone if i say test 1 pass and test 2 failed. dos it? unless you telling what part of the test failed.

its easy just saying that is this microswitch. instead of while it can be this or the other. i try to determine what the actual problem is and how to fix it cheap. simple.

and yes i want a bar or something on the front because if some idiot try to park in my car i dont care what happen to him as long as i carry on driving and be safe.
( my volvo has a 20mm steel square bar behind the plastic shell on the bumper. / prevents impact damage destroying the radiator. )

and to the abs - i have no intention paying every 2 month out for something i find useless despite some people relying on it because they cant drive without. i drove this car for 2 weeks without abs. it actually breaks better as without like any car.
but hey - i forgot. some people using a car as transport and some only learned how to pass the driving test.

otherwise its my car and i personalise it my way. like it or dont. - a car staying from the factory the way it was build is boring. anyone can have that. as long as it is a range rover and looks like a range rover what ever else i am doing with it or on it is my personal touch. ( and i have no intention creating an offroader )
if anyone dont like it - there is my answer - i dont care .

i ask the questions to identify problems and help to solve them or help by deciding if ideas are realistic to put in place. not to hear about shouldnt be done .

and if spellcheck dont work by using the phone i cant help that. complain to google uk. they created that.
 
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