Anyone have a 200di series 3 ?

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Not sure if the original questioner, curveking,lost interest somewhere but if still interested... I converted a series 3 with a DISCO 200 TDI 3 years ago and it has been a more than a complete sucess.:):crazy_driver: No need to worry about anything fitting,it all does as both the chasis longtudinals are at the same width and cross members are easily interchangable. Only tricky part was the output shaft which was shortened by 5 1/2" and a defender bell housing used to allow the gearshift to cear the seat front.(or can use the shorter defender box.) I agree with all the above exect as explained cross member in the way of the gearbox.
 
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ive got a 1971 88 200tdi handles like a go cart . very torque'y and nippy
has fairley overdrive but still needs another gear but as not going on motorways doesnt really bother me .
 
Diffs from a disco or a deffy are good for a tdi convert, gives good gearing for motorway stuff.
Only thing if your converting a lwb, and I'm sure one of you said you were, then the lwb has a salisbury diff I think 4.71 to 1, so to get the 3.54 diff ratio you'd have to get a rocking horse poo salisbury diff which needs special tools to change, or convert to either a disco/deffy, or series swb rear axle, the disco/deffy does need some fab work and welding, though its not that hard, and the series swb has the springs inboard of the chassis rails, whereas the lwb has the springs outboard, so the perches on a swb diff will be in the wrong place, and so probably will be the shock mounts, so some fab will be req either way.
 
TheKeymeister said:
How are you getting around the turbo mounting issue?
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sorry just noticed said the same thing on thread twice to answer your question i was having another got at it again, im probly going to mill down a block of cast rotate the turbo outlet 90 degrees, and make a 30 degree bend in the cast block to lift the turbo up enough, the exhaust with a bit of work will go back through the the original place
 
109party said:
sorry just noticed said the same thing on thread twice to answer your question i was having another got at it again, im probly going to mill down a block of cast rotate the turbo outlet 90 degrees, and make a 30 degree bend in the cast block to lift the turbo up enough, the exhaust with a bit of work will go back through the the original place
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Not exactly sure what you are doing with the turbo. If it is any help I fitted a Disco engine pluss it's turbo and cut and rotated the cast pipe coming out from the turbo to make a nice run downwards for the exhaust. Ordinary mig mild steel weld. Chris.
 
1/4 plate flange for turbo connection, rest made up from old propshafts.
200 tdi series downpipe 3.jpg 200 tdi series downpipe 4.jpg 200tdi series downpipe 1.jpg 200tdi series downpipe 2.jpg
 
109party said:
military chassis fouls turbo so you have to raise it by means,
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I thought it was all 109s the turbo fouled it? Could be wrong there's that many conflicting bits of info about online, haven't even trial fitted yet as the landy and 200tdi are about 20 miles away from each other at the moment.....

Plan was to get someone to make up a pipe to kick the turbo away a few degrees to clear the chassis, sort the exhaust outlet out later, and at the moment just head scratching about oil feed/return pipework as the standard stuff probably wont be long enough...
 
109party said:
you got any pics of that on vehicle :)
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unfortunately no, but wish i had with the comments from it.
nice and neat for a homemade load of pipework.
dont even know where the motor is now, as lad that had it flogged it on and got a 90, as the seats moved further back. (had a bit of a belly that contacted the small steering wheel that was fitted)

keymeister, the oil cooler pipes were extended by welding some old cooler pipes into the horizontal sections.
 
just fitted my series 2a 88 inch with a 200 di very very pleased with it getting around 35 mpg and its way faster than the old petrol was i can now coast up hills in fourth that required a flat out third gear with the old petrol engine strongly recomend it
 
fenby1976 said:
I'm not 100% sure of it, 'cos I don't have any experience with the 2.5 NA engine, but I have read several times that it's necessary because of the low mounting of the fuel pump - perhaps it's a myth. What I've heard is that a derivative of the 2.5NA Land-Rover diesel engine fitted to a Sherpa van will go onto the standard series engine chassis mounts, but that has the disadvantage of not having a sealed timing case.
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my dad had a 2.5 n/a in his series 3 for a few years i remember him saying that you didnt have to move the engine mount but cut a bracket off and the casing would then still sit on it but it wasnt as tight and i remember him putting a piece of rubber between it to stop it rattling ( it never was very good).
that series 3 88 is now a 200 Di as well as my 88 i know he is very pleased with it and i am pleased with mine it came out of range rover and has done 70,000 and got it for £130 on ebay. they are very economical for what they are and although not as much power as a tdi it isnt that hard to fit and still gives loads of torque, very quick starting and enough power for the roads but i think id agree that if you wanted it for motorway use and things then stick the turbo on the side even if u do it after you put the engine in (what i might do with mine)
 
Got a 200 di in my 88 s3, starts better, runs better, drives better. I dont do lots of miles but i,m getting better mpg, it just make,s it better to drive, not a rocket ship, drum brakes and cart springs arnt ideal for flying around !.the only thing i,m not keen on is loosing the valve for the heater controll, as of yet i have no thermostat fitted(tomorros job), i think it,ll run even better if i can get it up to " normal " running temerature, i,ll let you no how i get on
cheers
Dave
 
the right hand engine mount does have to be taken of. Easy solution - buy engine mounts for 2.5na from richards chassis and weld on. Simple if you can weld - hassle if you cannot.
 
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