Another wisdom request on resto if you could please!

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resto_d1

Well-Known Member
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Location
Wiltshire
Morning all

Project is coming along really well and I'm happy with my progress. I need to make brake lines up and purchase my new rear calipers. I took mine apart to clean and rebuild to find out your not supposed to split them. Now I've seen them at 30 odd each if be mad not to buy.

I've never made lines before and was going to ask for a member to do them for beer tokens. I'm now thinking why not learn that too.

Can anyone recommend me a tool that will suffice for my d1 lines and also perhaps future builds? The price ranges so much.

Also, do I just replicate the standard unions or do people upgrade to different compression fittings?
The same question applies for fuel lines - I'd like to plumb in new lines from engine back.

I think the above is are the only current stumbling blocks. I need to get the landy moveable by spring. I don't need a boot floor for this but certainly need fuel and brakes :D

Thanks in advance

:)
 
They're easy.

Replicate the existing ends. Don't forget to put the new nuts on and check they're the right way round before you form the second end!

I use Cunifer pipe. Never had an issue with it on any of our cars & some of the ones on my RRC are over 20 years old.

I've got one of the Machine Mart type tools & I've never had any issues, although some don't get on with them.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht172-automotive-pipe-flaring-kit/

Try & remove the old pipes without damaging them as far as possible. You can then use them as a pattern to bend your new pipes.
Tighter bends risk collapsing the pipe as you bend it & there are tools for bending but I've found an old broom handle with a round groove about the size of the pipe filed in it & clamped in a vice so it doesn't move as you bend the pipe does the job.

I replaced my fuel lines with larger bore cunifer pipe & again, not had a problem. Remove carefully & use as a pattern to bend the new ones. I expect technology has moved on & plastic lines may well be a better bet but I expect someone will be along to advise you :)

ETA. I've also got one of the small pipe cutting tools which makes the cut ends nice & square & without lots of hacksawing bits. Lightly deburr the inside & outside of the pipe & blow through.
This one: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht244-mini-tubing-cutter/
 
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Easy enough to make them, best advice i can give is to lubricate the new bit before trying to form it.

Use the old one as a template, all new fasteners and unions and it'll be golden.

I have seen kits for full braided brake lines, think there was a truck on ere somewhere with them fitted.
 
Thank you both that's exactly what I was after. I blew a braided line on an accord type r some how which was obviously the indirect application. Shame the recaro's weren't brown!
 
I actually did use the sense of keeping the originals haha. What about the t piece? It seems in ok Nick but I'd like to refresh through. Guess I need to buy that as a part or can I simply put a t piece in?
 
IMG_20171024_172238.jpg
IMG_20171024_172349.jpg
IMG_20171024_172414.jpg


The pipe bender is also very cool and made light work of professional looking bends in my pipe runs.

IMG_20171024_172253.jpg


All sourced very cheaply on Hamazone or Eblag ;)
 
I'd be inclined to replace the pipe nuts, but if the 'T' is OK I'd reuse it.

ETA. dd's kit is the same as mine except I haven't got the pipe bender! :)
 
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Sorry one more question. I believe double flares are the way to go for brakes. On this assumption, I should go female unions to double male connectors at joints rather then a single flare in a male and double in the female to make the joint? Thanks
 
Just a plain T piece.

You have a bias/compensator valve on the off side inner wing.

Can't find a picture but sure there is one somewhere in my thread.

But it comes down the inner wing, under the footwell and through a sill to floor support bracket like so.
DSCN0880.JPG
 
dieseldog69 said:
No real problem with singles but yes double flare is the way to go
Click to expand...

Will have to be singles into the t I think. I'm thinking I'll use doubles/female nuts to double male joiners everywhere else. It's then my soft flair butted against a hard metal rather than a male konifer flair mated to a female konifer flair. Believe that would leave more room for a dirty joint to occur. Yet again I have a fair bit to order. I have a lovely birthday present coming in a few months too :D
 
resto_d1 said:
Sorry one more question. I believe double flares are the way to go for brakes. On this assumption, I should go female unions to double male connectors at joints rather then a single flare in a male and double in the female to make the joint? Thanks
Click to expand...
you use a double for female fittings and a bubble for male usually but some t pieces etc differ which many call a single flare, an actual single flare cant be made with a standard brake flaring kit
upload_2019-1-30_15-7-14.jpeg

single flare on the left bubble in the middle, its often called single flare as its made in operation 1 it takes 2 operations to make the double flare on the right
 
jamesmartin said:
you use a double for female fittings and a bubble for male usually but some t pieces etc differ which many call a single flare, an actual single flare cant be made with a standard brake flaring kit
View attachment 168540
single flare on the left bubble in the middle, its often called single flare as its made in operation 1 it takes 2 operations to make the double flare on the right
Click to expand...
Cheers James that's why I favoured a male male joiner so I could use doubles in female nuts. I didn't realise that with single or bubble. I'll put a link in when buying my stuff but don't know how I'll tell whether my t will allow a bubble and not require a single.
 
Chrisw8 said:
i use one of these for doing my brake pipes ....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pi...=item1c62dc631e:g:uaIAAOSwVLRadDPj:rk:28:pf:0

few quid more , but dead easy and a lot less fiddlier to use than the other type and perfect every time.

also need small pipe cutter, and if i remember, 16mm and 10mm spanners
Click to expand...
thats the one I use. Much better than the other, if you only do infrequent brake lines. It is also a lot easier to use on the vehicle and in confined spaces.
 
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