Another ACE question (ear defenders on already)

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minibreakdown

minibreakdown

Active Member
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Location
Derby
Hello all,

Had the amber warning light come on the other day for ACE. I hooked my newly acquired nanocom and I found the fault code 06-01 hydraulic pressure too low.

I am going to change the ACE pump as I have someone to help with the spanners and the nanocom to reset the system. I also have the RAVE CD and Haynes manual.

Then a day later the amber warning light decided it was bored and lit up again. Hooked up the nanocom expecting the same fault but now have fault code 06-05 pressure control valve current too low is showing.

I have Trawled the forum to see if this is a DIY job and it appears it can be done.

My questions are;
1 Would the second fault that appeared be as a result of the first fault or is it something completely different?:confused:
2. Whilst 90% of you reading this are screaming get rid of ACE (hence ear defender comment) I would like to try and keep the car as standard as possible:eek:. Has anyone who has taken off their ACE still kept the pump somewhere when they replaced it for the idler pulley? Can't help thinking that there must be a large pile of old ACE parts somewhere. If you have got a working pump pm me to see if we can do a deal.

Thanks in advance
 
ACE is an excellent system but like much on sophisticated vehicles they do need pro-active maintenance.

For example, there is a filter in the valve block under the drivers seat. It's out of eye-sight so never gets done. Also there is a solenoid on the same block with an electrical connector - nobody bothers to clean the contacts.

If I were you, before spending too much money on a new pump I would change the filter in the valve block, then see how you get on. I would also check for leaks in the pipework between the block and the hydraulic rams.


Dave
 
thebiglad said:
ACE is an excellent system but like much on sophisticated vehicles they do need pro-active maintenance.

For example, there is a filter in the valve block under the drivers seat. It's out of eye-sight so never gets done. Also there is a solenoid on the same block with an electrical connector - nobody bothers to clean the contacts.

If I were you, before spending too much money on a new pump I would change the filter in the valve block, then see how you get on. I would also check for leaks in the pipework between the block and the hydraulic rams.


Dave
Click to expand...

Hello Dave,

I have seen the filter in the valve block on the forum and on rave. If this needed changing would that give the fault codes?

I thought about a leak so have kept a meticulously close eye on the level of oil in the reservoir and it hasn't changed level in the last 4 weeks. Could an intermittent leak cause a drop in the hydraulic pressure and give the fault code.

I will clean up the electrical connector tomorrow.

Cheers
 
minibreakdown said:
Hello Dave,

I have seen the filter in the valve block on the forum and on rave. If this needed changing would that give the fault codes?

I thought about a leak so have kept a meticulously close eye on the level of oil in the reservoir and it hasn't changed level in the last 4 weeks. Could an intermittent leak cause a drop in the hydraulic pressure and give the fault code.

I will clean up the electrical connector tomorrow.

Cheers
Click to expand...

If it affected pressure, then yes. Also, any leaks will affect the system reaching it's correct pressure which is incidently approx 130 BAR !!!!!


You need to check the pipework underneath the vehicle to be sure.
 
thebiglad said:
If it affected pressure, then yes. Also, any leaks will affect the system reaching it's correct pressure which is incidently approx 130 BAR !!!!!


You need to check the pipework underneath the vehicle to be sure.
Click to expand...

Oh joy! Back under a land rover, knew the honeymoon period had to end.
 
the most common fault which triggers the warning lamp and gives erratic pressure readings is the pressure transducer... go for that first... the pumps are bulletproof as long as they dont run dry... and afaik when it comes about the ACE nanocom is not the most accurate tool
 
sierrafery said:
the most common fault which triggers the warning lamp and gives erratic pressure readings is the pressure transducer... go for that first... the pumps are bulletproof as long as they dont run dry... and afaik when it comes about the ACE nanocom is not the most accurate tool
Click to expand...

Good evening sierrafery,

I will have a look on rave at the pressure transducer. Would that give me both faults? I have only owned the car for 6 weeks and the pump has never run dry in my long ownership.

I must admit I was going to go for the lynx as I have a spare laptop but went for the nanocom due to the comments about brit part stuff and nanocom has been around longer. When you say accurate, do you mean reading live data or returning incorrect fault codes?
 
Hi to you too...the ACE coverage was a late upgrade on nanocom and i saw several posts about strange behaviour of it ...that doesnt meaan it reads incorrect codes just that is not working on the specific LR protocol on this... every time when it's a pressure related not 100% certain fault(like open or closed circuit would be) there might be an interpretation issue. See the fault code list in RAVE for ACE and try to corroborate the fault code you've got with the car's behaviour...it's explained there how it behaves in certain conditions and what it does i.e "lockked bars", "floppy" etc.

what's certain is that the transducer failure is the most common.
 
Ok. Thanks for a thorough answer.

I will interrogate rave to find the fault codes. Also it is funny you should mention the behaviour of the car as sometimes it feels really planted to the road and at other times it feels like the slightest bump in the road is multiplied ten fold. Faults started with the system on a fast motorway run through France. But today I put her through a hard section of the twisty stuff and Amber light came on, on the first bend which just happened to be a righthander.

Once again thanks. I have seen that you reply to most ace problems when I searched the site for information.
 
Yes, like you i'd better fix the systems (untill i can afford) than 'downgrade' a well enhanced D2 and for that i've learned a lot on my own... then when i will not be able to maintain it i'll sell it to somebody who want it as it is and buy a LADA NIVA to go cheap.;)

the problem with these faults (not just for ACE) is that the diagnostic protocol identifies 100% just the 'pure' faults like open/closed/short to earth circuits but as we know there's a 'grey zone' between these like corroded contacts(which are not open circuit just higher than 0 resistance), other intermittent issues, etc which could mix up the tester's "brain" and make the diagnose a bit harder... but with perseverence everything gets to an end:) ...so good luck... and patience
 
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago and following advice on this forum changed the pressure transducer as the easiest and cheapest first try. Completely solved the problem and have had no further problems in two years. As said 90% of faults with the system seem to stem from the pressure transducer.
 
When I bought the car I did factor in "repair fund" to the purchase price as in reality I had been looking over 2 years at a 2004 D2 td5 es, trying to find a good one. Part of the delay was my old volvo that wouldn't die and having driven and owned various land rovers I thought it would be a good idea to have that fund. Niva is a good car, loads down here. But I need the comfort of a good D2 es.

With the comment from barcyzk added I'm ordering a transducer today but will clean up the connector today and try that as well. Then the block will be clean when the part does arrive.

Cheers
 
1 x ACE Valve Block Pressure Transducer RVG100010 ordered and on it's way:(:)

When arrives and fitted I'll let you know how it goes.
 
minibreakdown said:
1 x ACE Valve Block Pressure Transducer RVG100010 ordered and on it's way:(:)

When arrives and fitted I'll let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...


I had intermittent ACE amber warning lights, which I 'cleared' by turning off the engine, waiting a few seconds and re-starting it.

When I got a Hawkeye, I plugged it in and read the codes, and it was reporting 'low pressure' - so I changed the pressure transducer (over 2 years ago) and it's not done it since.

UP has a couple of good write-ups on how to change the ACE filter and pressure transducer -

Here - www.discovery2.co.uk / ACE High pressure filter


And here - www.discovery2.co.uk / ACE amber light - Pressure Transducer

.
 
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