Ampmeter wiring ... help!

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D

DanielGwalter

New Member
Posts
30
Hi all,

I have the 87 defender 90 with a 2ltr disco TDI engine. I am nearly finished putting in the MUD center console (lots of wiring!).

the one remaining gauge i have to wire up is a TIM ammeter (because i have one before anyone asks why ;-) )

my question is that there seems to be lots of conflicting information on this topic so I thought i would ask here

Q. is the alternator feed the best place to wire this.
Q. is this a case of remove the feed from the alternator, run a feed from the amp meter to the alternator and a feed from the amp meter to the original destination of the alternator feed (assuming this will be the starter motor).
Q. what is the rating of the cable required to run this
Q. is there a better way! and do i need anything more than cable and terminals for this

thanks in advance, i am sure someone will be along in a moment with just the answer i am looking for.

Dan.
 
As far as I remember the ammeter was in line between battery and starter motor
 
landowner said:
As far as I remember the ammeter was in line between battery and starter motor
Click to expand...

:faint2:
object-emoticon-0034.gif
 
As you have already anticipated the "WHY?" question, I won't go there!

An ammeter is used to measure charging current and has long been replaced by the voltmeter.
As you have already concluded, it is connected between the alternator and common +VE point (usually the starter-motor) and the cable has to be capable of carrying the full current. Assuming you have a 60A alternator I hope the ammeter is rated the same however many ammeters were only 30A as the dynamo (what were fitted to vehicles in those days) only delivered low rates of charge compared to the more modern alternator.

It really is an out-date piece of equipment and for the work involved, just not worth it. Instead of buying correctly rated cable, connectors etc just buy a voltmeter and be done, a far superior pice of equipment and easier to fit.
 
Litch said:
As you have already anticipated the "WHY?" question, I won't go there!

An ammeter is used to measure charging current and has long been replaced by the voltmeter.
As you have already concluded, it is connected between the alternator and common +VE point (usually the starter-motor) and the cable has to be capable of carrying the full current. Assuming you have a 60A alternator I hope the ammeter is rated the same however many ammeters were only 30A as the dynamo (what were fitted to vehicles in those days) only delivered low rates of charge compared to the more modern alternator.

It really is an out-date piece of equipment and for the work involved, just not worth it. Instead of buying correctly rated cable, connectors etc just buy a voltmeter and be done, a far superior pice of equipment and easier to fit.
Click to expand...


:whoosh:
 
Litch said:
As you have already anticipated the "WHY?" question, I won't go there!

An ammeter is used to measure charging current and has long been replaced by the voltmeter.
As you have already concluded, it is connected between the alternator and common +VE point (usually the starter-motor) and the cable has to be capable of carrying the full current. Assuming you have a 60A alternator I hope the ammeter is rated the same however many ammeters were only 30A as the dynamo (what were fitted to vehicles in those days) only delivered low rates of charge compared to the more modern alternator.

It really is an out-date piece of equipment and for the work involved, just not worth it. Instead of buying correctly rated cable, connectors etc just buy a voltmeter and be done, a far superior pice of equipment and easier to fit.
Click to expand...

Dear oh bloody dear, you just could not make this up, could you!!!!!!!! :D:D
 
woosh indeed, for those that didn't see this coming. ... i have the following gauges

amp
boost
clock
volt
tacho

whats the easiest to fill the now defunct amp meter shaped hole with!!! lol

obviously water temp is already on the main dash as is fuel

so i think all that could possible be left is engine hours (easy peasy), oil pressure (why) and oil temp (see water temp).

thoughts and sarcasm appreciated!

D
 
"Dear oh bloody dear, you just could not make this up, could you!!!!!!!! "

So what is the problem, cable is carrying charging current only, not starter current (that comes from the battery)?
 
most noo ammeters have an external shunt.

Biggest problem with the old type. is that when ya extend the wires you increase the resistance, (unless you increase cable size) which gives false readings.
 
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