ALRC Project

owl · Nov 30, 2012

The main reason I am trying it is I don't have a TIG and I don't want rough weld on the inside of the pipe joints which would cause turbulence, also I want long sweeping bends where possible.
I saw an old guy on the net who could make the most fantastic tight bends very close together using this method so I know it can be done just I can't do tight bends.
It is just the first bend out of the head that is tight so I may just buy them, tack them up and take the manifolds and get them TIG welded.

owl · Feb 20, 2013

Hi Guys, Not posted for a while as I have been collecting stuff for the project plus doing jobs on the house.
Well in the end with the exhaust manifolds I made a few sweeping bends by sand fill and heating in my forge, then I got a box of mandrel bends made up. As for welding I did a few test welds and found that if I did a tight butt joint and turned the mig up quite high then welded the joints with a series of overlapping spot welds I got good penetration but still nice and smooth inside.
First job was to make some collectors so I made a tool to hold the tube in my chop saw and made two cuts at 120 deg and then welded the three pipes together.

owl · Feb 20, 2013

Then I cut up the bends and tacked up the manifolds making sure all the primary pipes were the same length and that the manifold could be fitted and removed without taking the car to bits.

owl · Feb 20, 2013

and here they are fitted on the car. Next is to make the "Y" pipe which should be easier.
I have also rebuilt all four brake calipers and fitted new discs and pads all round plus braided brake lines on the front. The rears I ordered weren't long enough so need to order some more

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

what engine are you using ?

owl · Feb 20, 2013

It,s A KV6 Doc

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

I've just realised your headers are going in reverse like TVR ones

where are you planning on exiting it from ?

owl · Feb 20, 2013

It will have two 180 deg bends off the manifolds into a 2 1/4" pipe which will run down the nearside and exit over the rear cross member.

The KV6 will will be similar to the one in this.

Triumph Dolomite: Rally Heb 2011, Castle Grounds - YouTube

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

sounds nice that

I'm going for straight pipe from manifold then a 4 or 6 inch home made cherry bomb on either side which exits behind each rock slider. Gonna be loud and hopefully spit fire

owl · Feb 20, 2013

Dr_evil said:
sounds nice that

I'm going for straight pipe from manifold then a 4 or 6 inch home made cherry bomb on either side which exits behind each rock slider. Gonna be loud and hopefully spit fire

I did that to a series one V8 86" I had and it was loud and used a lot more fuel too.

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

owl said:
I did that to a series one V8 86" I had and it was loud and used a lot more fuel too.

haha if the series does 20mpg when sitting at 50 on the motorway I'm not bothered

owl · Feb 20, 2013

Dr_evil said:
haha if the series does 20mpg when sitting at 50 on the motorway I'm not bothered

Should do that, mine with overdrive and 3.5 diffs could eek out 30 on a run

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

owl said:
Should do that, mine with overdrive and 3.5 diffs could eek out 30 on a run

I'm on an R380 or will be soon, EFI flapper and soon to be Dana 50's or Landcruiser axles depending on what I can lay me hands on first

May swap out the diffs for 3.54's while I'm waiting though

owl · Feb 20, 2013

Dr_evil said:
I'm on an R380 or will be soon, EFI flapper and soon to be Dana 50's or Landcruiser axles depending on what I can lay me hands on first May swap out the diffs for 3.54's while I'm waiting though

How about C303's

Or better still keep it Rover and do some trials in it, See how good you are

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

owl said:
How about C303's

Or better still keep it Rover and do some trials in it, See how good you are

Them 303's look nice

may even see about Mog axles

But the trails look interesting, quite a few in my area plus grizedale rally

owl · Feb 20, 2013

Go trialling loads of fun, plenty of banter and it will make you a better driver. It takes a while to get competitive but well worth it, you can start off in novice until you start picking up trophy's then you will get moved up with the grown ups

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

Cool

well I've just seen a Dodge 100 axle of a 1977 pickup so bidding on that

See if I can get a pair! Be nice strong axles and have discs which is my main reason for upgrading axles, not a fan of drums

jai_landrover · Feb 20, 2013

Nowrt wrong with drums just lazy owners!!! If you compete you will be stripping each corner after each event anyhow just for a quick once over clean and re-adjust the brakes etc

Dr_evil · Feb 20, 2013

Hmmm, the idea was just to have better brakes on road though

Stronger axles too to match the R380 box

jai_landrover · Feb 20, 2013

R380 isnt amazing tho the effort involved I'd not bother. Depends what your building an everyday motor, or a comp motor or a P&P hack. I'd stick with a 101 bellhousing'd 4 speed LT95 personally for out and out strength and reliability. Axles well either go serious Dana or go Rover HD or go Rover std and portals but as with Owl try trialing.................................Sorts the men out from the boys and the boys with bling and lotsa gear and not alot else do give up pretty quick. Its quite scary that I've not competed seriously for a long time and I may have a week if I pull my finger out to drive my lil 80 wreck before the nats.

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