jai_landrover
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I agree impressive.
ALRC Project
- Thread starter owl
- Start date
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Paulmitchell1984
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Lookong good. Iv got a rolling chassis with cage thats 80" all iv maaged to get done is mount the engine..rin out of time with it amd need to sell..any updates with yours?
owl
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Hi I have started on the roll cage, I have made the sill bars and put some cross tubes in but I am not satisfied with the quality of the bends there is a slight ripple on the inside and the bends are flattening about 4mm 
They are ok for the sill bars but I need a different bender for the roll cage proper. the only firm near me with a draw bender is Tornado and they don't have a suitable die set so I am going to make a bender, so am on the look out for the bits just need a ram about 5 ton with 19 inch stroke.
Simon.
They are ok for the sill bars but I need a different bender for the roll cage proper. the only firm near me with a draw bender is Tornado and they don't have a suitable die set so I am going to make a bender, so am on the look out for the bits just need a ram about 5 ton with 19 inch stroke.
Simon.
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change yo usercp to show where yu are - someone might be able to help
owl
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owl
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OK a small update. I can't do any more on the roll cage until I have built a tube bender so I have been making the chassis spring mounts which have turned out to be quite tricky as there are a lot of things that have to be taken into consideration.
The axles move forwards and backwards and side to side with axle travel and as I'm going for 14" travel this movement is increased which made the positioning of the chassis spring seat difficult to decide, also the angle of the axle and chassis spring mounts vary quite markedly in relation to each other so much so I will have to alter the spring mount on the axle to compensate.
Another problem is using a p38 steering box the input shaft isn't parallel too the chassis rail and the steering uj would foul on the spring mount so I am using springs dimensionally the same as Def 130 rear inner springs to stay within the regs and as these springs are smaller diameter I have been able to make room for the steering shaft.
and finally as I am fabricating new mountings I have taken the opportunity to mount them on the chassis a tad higher to get the ride hight correct. so all in all a lot to think about, I wish they would let us use coil overs it would be a lot easier.
The axles move forwards and backwards and side to side with axle travel and as I'm going for 14" travel this movement is increased which made the positioning of the chassis spring seat difficult to decide, also the angle of the axle and chassis spring mounts vary quite markedly in relation to each other so much so I will have to alter the spring mount on the axle to compensate.
Another problem is using a p38 steering box the input shaft isn't parallel too the chassis rail and the steering uj would foul on the spring mount so I am using springs dimensionally the same as Def 130 rear inner springs to stay within the regs and as these springs are smaller diameter I have been able to make room for the steering shaft.
and finally as I am fabricating new mountings I have taken the opportunity to mount them on the chassis a tad higher to get the ride hight correct. so all in all a lot to think about, I wish they would let us use coil overs it would be a lot easier.
owl
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More Pic's
owl
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Two more. ran the sill bars into the chassis to protect occupants feet a bit better
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Paulmitchell1984
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looking good mate..how you making pipe bender?
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
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why would he want to make a pipe bender he clearly has one already
owl
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I do have a pipe bender but it is putting a slight ripple on the inside of the bends and is flattening the tube 4mm so I have found a place that sells the die sets and I am going to build a draw bender like this.
Simon.
Simon.
top drive
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Loving your fab skills
Have been following this from the start just thought id add in so you keep updating
Have been following this from the start just thought id add in so you keep updating
owl
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Over the holiday I have managed to get a few hours in and fabricated the rear spring mounts, The spring mounting have been more work than I anticipated not in the fabrication but more design issues, I think I will have to make an adjustable front panhard rod as at full articulation things are very tight.
Anyway a few pic's
Anyway a few pic's
jai_landrover
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Hi Owl,
Very nice work.
Q's:
Panhard rod how are you going to make one with regard the ALRC regs I thought maybe wrongly that nothing could be fabricaced or differ from a standard one.
Do you know the outcome of diamonds? I was about top order a set.
I need to check I heared a roumour that the awdc have banned diamonds for comp safari racing I don't think ALRC will follow tho if it is the case.
Very nice work.
Q's:
Panhard rod how are you going to make one with regard the ALRC regs I thought maybe wrongly that nothing could be fabricaced or differ from a standard one.
Do you know the outcome of diamonds? I was about top order a set.
I need to check I heared a roumour that the awdc have banned diamonds for comp safari racing I don't think ALRC will follow tho if it is the case.
owl
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Regards the panhard rod I will talk to a few log book scrutineers, seeing as none gen steering rods are allowed I can't see a valid abjection to an adjustable panhard but we will see.
As to diamonds I don't know what the outcome will be. I was talking to a ALRC committee member and he was saying that in his opinion diamonds didn't do any more damage than a less aggressive tyre and as an example he said he was at a recent trial and vehicles with diamonds were getting up a hill without wheel spinning while others without were spinning and digging in, I thing the same can be said for comping. so I haven't purchased any more tyres and by the time I have this motor finished they should of decided.
Regards Simon.
jai_landrover
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Cheers Simon,
I agree that common sense should be adopted with regard your panhard rod.
Problem is they the ALRC have to factor in the numpty factor when people try and manufacturer them themselves using inferior or poor build quality. Its easier for them to say standard parts only and be done with it.
Diamonds the roumour was to do with speed but it seems a cop out if so. The events of late well last 6 or 7 years seem to be more like a rally course opposed to offroad course of the years gone by where you would need a rangie/hybrid to get over the terrain. Well that swhat it seems to be from watching a ferw events over the years I may well be completly wrong.It that seems to be the way the sport was going competitor profiles, £100K motors leaving the true clubman out of the field.
I'm glad the grass roots ALRC is open for the average clubman to build/buy a vehicle reasonably cheaply (hobby racing terms) and compete without needing the backup of a buisness or sponsor. I was against ALRC regs being far too strict but now I see why they are the way they are I understand it has to be.
Will keep an eye on your build! I can't wait to see it in the flesh. Will no doubt I will be passed by your motor rooster tails blazing past my 80 inch on a comp in a year or so while my old 80 inch leafer bounces around the course! Can't wait
Jai
Anyway
I agree that common sense should be adopted with regard your panhard rod.
Problem is they the ALRC have to factor in the numpty factor when people try and manufacturer them themselves using inferior or poor build quality. Its easier for them to say standard parts only and be done with it.
Diamonds the roumour was to do with speed but it seems a cop out if so. The events of late well last 6 or 7 years seem to be more like a rally course opposed to offroad course of the years gone by where you would need a rangie/hybrid to get over the terrain. Well that swhat it seems to be from watching a ferw events over the years I may well be completly wrong.It that seems to be the way the sport was going competitor profiles, £100K motors leaving the true clubman out of the field.
I'm glad the grass roots ALRC is open for the average clubman to build/buy a vehicle reasonably cheaply (hobby racing terms) and compete without needing the backup of a buisness or sponsor. I was against ALRC regs being far too strict but now I see why they are the way they are I understand it has to be.
Will keep an eye on your build! I can't wait to see it in the flesh. Will no doubt I will be passed by your motor rooster tails blazing past my 80 inch on a comp in a year or so while my old 80 inch leafer bounces around the course! Can't wait
Jai
Anyway
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owl
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I have built a few tuned S1 2ltr motors for 80's in the past, 2.6 pistons, ported head and block. 4 branch manifold, lightened flywheel and Piper reground the cams's for me + a few other mods felt like twice the power.
I fancy another leafer myself but s1's are getting a bit expensive. I had a 1948 back in the 80's which I restored, I remember it had self adjusting brakes I could never get to work so I did away with them fitted dipping cibie oscars instead of the tractor head lights and fitted a different back body for more room, the rivet counters would probably lynch me .
simon.
I fancy another leafer myself but s1's are getting a bit expensive. I had a 1948 back in the 80's which I restored, I remember it had self adjusting brakes I could never get to work so I did away with them fitted dipping cibie oscars instead of the tractor head lights and fitted a different back body for more room, the rivet counters would probably lynch me .
simon.
jai_landrover
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Lol!
Mine is a 3.9 but it has been messed with camshaft and on Carbs so completly unknown not run yet and most probably runs like a bag of crap. Its been trialled for probably 2 or 3 decades before I got it. Most likley been at the nationals in one form or another. Its being rebuilt as its a bit tired. New roll cage outriggers, and getting everything refurbed and reliable. Will have a Rangie front axle and series Salisbury rear.
I have aquired a Ashcroft CWP 4.75:1 and fitted it to a P38 4 pin centre in a rover casing for the front. A set of Kam HD (not the best but came up at a good price) front shafts and will run the short stubv shafts as a fusable link front end. One day when money allows will upgrade to sahcroft everything or still awaiting a mail from the states $800 lifetime warranty shafts cv's but shipping could be an issue.
Mine is a 3.9 but it has been messed with camshaft and on Carbs so completly unknown not run yet and most probably runs like a bag of crap. Its been trialled for probably 2 or 3 decades before I got it. Most likley been at the nationals in one form or another. Its being rebuilt as its a bit tired. New roll cage outriggers, and getting everything refurbed and reliable. Will have a Rangie front axle and series Salisbury rear.
I have aquired a Ashcroft CWP 4.75:1 and fitted it to a P38 4 pin centre in a rover casing for the front. A set of Kam HD (not the best but came up at a good price) front shafts and will run the short stubv shafts as a fusable link front end. One day when money allows will upgrade to sahcroft everything or still awaiting a mail from the states $800 lifetime warranty shafts cv's but shipping could be an issue.
jai_landrover
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There are a few pics on www.reconrovers.com trialer and rear axle sub pages.
I want it strong as poss would hate to blow a shaft mid climb on a team recovery section and let the other team member down having weak parts.
I want it strong as poss would hate to blow a shaft mid climb on a team recovery section and let the other team member down having weak parts.
owl
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I started with a road legal v8 86" used to drive it to events and do ccv, team rec, and comp and then drive home, ah good old days. I smacked the engine on the front axle and broke the pump more than once !!! LOL
was thinking of building my lad a 80 with a 1.8 k series engine and pg1 box on parabolic's would be very light and not enough torque to break stuff.
was thinking of building my lad a 80 with a 1.8 k series engine and pg1 box on parabolic's would be very light and not enough torque to break stuff.
