All I wanted to do was Paint the Rear Cross Member!

Dan_Trials · Jan 19, 2014

IamRobbie said:
What rust converter are you using and what chassis paint? thats something i need to do to my whole chassis this year before then waxoyling it

Rust converter is Robex and chassis paint is Tetrosyl. Kind of limited up here for choice but I'm happy enough with the results. With these sorts of products I tend to have a look around for what's newly stocked and give it a try.

Landyfox · Jan 20, 2014

pressbrake said:
The rear crossmember looks about 40mm higher than standard, are you modifying the rear tub?
I did that once with a 90 running in a standard class but as a little cheat to gain clearance

It looks about right to me.

discomark10 · Jan 20, 2014

IamRobbie said:
What rust converter are you using and what chassis paint? thats something i need to do to my whole chassis this year before then waxoyling it

From reading lots of threads, I believe the best paints are.. red oxide primer then somenkind of hammerite.

Dan_Trials · Jan 20, 2014

Landyfox said:
It looks about right to me.

I'm hoping so, will find out soon enough though.

discomark10 said:
From reading lots of threads, I believe the best paints are.. red oxide primer then somenkind of hammerite.

Perhaps back in the day, but recently I've found red oxide to be nothing like it used to be. Probably to do with EU rules banning the use of the chemicals that made it so good. Similar story with Hammerite, it just doesn't seem so good to me. Like I said though, there are plenty of combinations to use and each to their own

discomark10 · Jan 20, 2014

Dan_Trials said:
I'm hoping so, will find out soon enough though.

Perhaps back in the day, but recently I've found red oxide to be nothing like it used to be. Probably to do with EU rules banning the use of the chemicals that made it so good. Similar story with Hammerite, it just doesn't seem so good to me. Like I said though, there are plenty of combinations to use and each to their own

Hope your wrong. . Just brought 5l of red oxide!

mick the builder · Jan 20, 2014

discomark10 said:
Hope your wrong. . Just brought 5l of red oxide!

Was much better when called red lead then they took the lead out.

Jason2 · Jan 20, 2014

Asbestos ! that's **** as well now a days

Dan_Trials · Jan 20, 2014

discomark10 said:
Hope your wrong. . Just brought 5l of red oxide!

oops! :lol:

mick the builder said:
Was much better when called red lead then they took the lead out.

There is that too, but certainly I've found recently it has gone extra ****.

Jason2 said:
Asbestos ! that's **** as well now a days

Was working in a building last summer that had proper old skool asbestos in it

trax · Jan 21, 2014

isn't red oxide just zinc phosphate with a red dye in it?

it isn't red lead from way back.

zinc phosphate is okish, not as good as a zinc rich paint.

also hammerite, meh. might as well use some tractor enamel

IamRobbie · Jan 21, 2014

trax said:
isn't red oxide just zinc phosphate with a red dye in it?

it isn't red lead from way back.

zinc phosphate is okish, not as good as a zinc rich paint.

also hammerite, meh. might as well use some tractor enamel

Even more confused that before now haha

discomark10 · Jan 22, 2014

trax said:
isn't red oxide just zinc phosphate with a red dye in it?

it isn't red lead from way back.

zinc phosphate is okish, not as good as a zinc rich paint.

also hammerite, meh. might as well use some tractor enamel

yes, zinc phosphate, have to look at the zinc rich paint in future.

Whats tractor enamel when its at home?

trax · Jan 22, 2014

discomark10 said:
yes, zinc phosphate, have to look at the zinc rich paint in future.

Whats tractor enamel when its at home?

enamel based paint they paint trattors with

this is from i was looking into it a while ago.

re zinc rich.

see galv, it covers the metal in zinc which sacrifices itself instead of corroding the metal underneath (cathodic protection).

galv is metal dipped into hot zinc.

zinc rich paints can also offer cathodic protection if they are in direct contact with the bare metal and if the zinc content is high enough (like 95%+). They are not as good as hot dipped galv though. you might come across this as cold-galv, galvafroid or others.

zinc phosphate is made via some process i can't remember, but it doesn't offer the cathodic protection, but it is still alright for protection.

be careful what you stick on as alkyd paints can knacker the primer and that stuff is pricey (and heavy).

Dan_Trials · Jan 23, 2014

Aye to all what Trax said basically :lol:

You can look up the technical specs of a paint to see what zinc and other stuff % content it has.

Oh yeah and incase you were wondering, if you paint something in Galvafroid then throw the brush in some redoxide it starts burning and stuff

Dan_Trials · Jun 8, 2014

So it's been a while :lol:

Got the front axle and stuff all bolted up

Dan_Trials · Jun 8, 2014

Couple of repairs to the tub and bolted in place

Dan_Trials · Jun 8, 2014

Tub cappings need fixed, went the budget bodge route

Cut away the corroded parts

Cut out 2 bits of sheet in this sort of shape

Folded them like this

Welded them together

Also a box section bit to go inside

Weld, rivet, paint

Dan_Trials · Jun 8, 2014

A mate of mine wanted sides without windows and I was considering sides with windows so we did a swap. Also chucked the bulkhead on while we at it too.

Dan_Trials · Jun 8, 2014

Needed a gearbox cross member and didn't fancy paying £170 odd for one so got about £20 worth of materials and spent an hour or so and made one

Dan_Trials · Jun 8, 2014

Thought might as well throw some more body bits on and the gearbox in too

Been a while since I've sat under this roof!

Going to need to Gavin from Autoglass a call!

Dan_Trials · Jun 8, 2014

Stuck the doors in place just for the cracks!

Inside of rear door is a bit rusted, might replace it or just weld it

All I wanted to do was Paint the Rear Cross Member!

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