All I wanted to do was Paint the Rear Cross Member!

IamRobbie said:

What rust converter are you using and what chassis paint? thats something i need to do to my whole chassis this year before then waxoyling it

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Rust converter is Robex and chassis paint is Tetrosyl. Kind of limited up here for choice but I'm happy enough with the results. With these sorts of products I tend to have a look around for what's newly stocked and give it a try.

pressbrake said:

The rear crossmember looks about 40mm higher than standard, are you modifying the rear tub?
I did that once with a 90 running in a standard class but as a little cheat to gain clearance

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It looks about right to me.

IamRobbie said:

What rust converter are you using and what chassis paint? thats something i need to do to my whole chassis this year before then waxoyling it

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From reading lots of threads, I believe the best paints are.. red oxide primer then somenkind of hammerite.

Landyfox said:

It looks about right to me.

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I'm hoping so, will find out soon enough though.

discomark10 said:

From reading lots of threads, I believe the best paints are.. red oxide primer then somenkind of hammerite.

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Perhaps back in the day, but recently I've found red oxide to be nothing like it used to be. Probably to do with EU rules banning the use of the chemicals that made it so good. Similar story with Hammerite, it just doesn't seem so good to me. Like I said though, there are plenty of combinations to use and each to their own

Dan_Trials said:

I'm hoping so, will find out soon enough though.



Perhaps back in the day, but recently I've found red oxide to be nothing like it used to be. Probably to do with EU rules banning the use of the chemicals that made it so good. Similar story with Hammerite, it just doesn't seem so good to me. Like I said though, there are plenty of combinations to use and each to their own

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Hope your wrong. . Just brought 5l of red oxide!

discomark10 said:

Hope your wrong. . Just brought 5l of red oxide!

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Was much better when called red lead then they took the lead out.

Asbestos ! that's **** as well now a days

discomark10 said:

Hope your wrong. . Just brought 5l of red oxide!

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oops! :lol:

mick the builder said:

Was much better when called red lead then they took the lead out.

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There is that too, but certainly I've found recently it has gone extra ****.

Jason2 said:

Asbestos ! that's **** as well now a days

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Was working in a building last summer that had proper old skool asbestos in it

isn't red oxide just zinc phosphate with a red dye in it?

it isn't red lead from way back.

zinc phosphate is okish, not as good as a zinc rich paint.

also hammerite, meh. might as well use some tractor enamel

trax said:

isn't red oxide just zinc phosphate with a red dye in it?

it isn't red lead from way back.

zinc phosphate is okish, not as good as a zinc rich paint.

also hammerite, meh. might as well use some tractor enamel

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Even more confused that before now haha

trax said:

isn't red oxide just zinc phosphate with a red dye in it?

it isn't red lead from way back.

zinc phosphate is okish, not as good as a zinc rich paint.

also hammerite, meh. might as well use some tractor enamel

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yes, zinc phosphate, have to look at the zinc rich paint in future.

Whats tractor enamel when its at home?

discomark10 said:

yes, zinc phosphate, have to look at the zinc rich paint in future.

Whats tractor enamel when its at home?

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enamel based paint they paint trattors with

this is from i was looking into it a while ago.

re zinc rich.

see galv, it covers the metal in zinc which sacrifices itself instead of corroding the metal underneath (cathodic protection).

galv is metal dipped into hot zinc.

zinc rich paints can also offer cathodic protection if they are in direct contact with the bare metal and if the zinc content is high enough (like 95%+). They are not as good as hot dipped galv though. you might come across this as cold-galv, galvafroid or others.

zinc phosphate is made via some process i can't remember, but it doesn't offer the cathodic protection, but it is still alright for protection.

be careful what you stick on as alkyd paints can knacker the primer and that stuff is pricey (and heavy).

Aye to all what Trax said basically :lol:

You can look up the technical specs of a paint to see what zinc and other stuff % content it has.

Oh yeah and incase you were wondering, if you paint something in Galvafroid then throw the brush in some redoxide it starts burning and stuff

So it's been a while :lol:

Got the front axle and stuff all bolted up

Couple of repairs to the tub and bolted in place

Tub cappings need fixed, went the budget bodge route



Cut away the corroded parts



Cut out 2 bits of sheet in this sort of shape



Folded them like this





Welded them together



Also a box section bit to go inside



Weld, rivet, paint

A mate of mine wanted sides without windows and I was considering sides with windows so we did a swap. Also chucked the bulkhead on while we at it too.

Needed a gearbox cross member and didn't fancy paying £170 odd for one so got about £20 worth of materials and spent an hour or so and made one

Thought might as well throw some more body bits on and the gearbox in too

Been a while since I've sat under this roof!







Going to need to Gavin from Autoglass a call!

Stuck the doors in place just for the cracks!







Inside of rear door is a bit rusted, might replace it or just weld it