Freelander 1 Air con regas then failed
- Thread starter andyfreelandy
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I'm sorry, i'm not sure if you're taking the**** or not?
Dizzyistributor?
As far as i know it's not connected to the Thermal Expansion Valve. At least, as I'VE never connected one up to tens of thousands of volts, i really couldn't say whether it would be beneficial or not.
As i recall the last time i put said voltage up my arm, while working on my mate's mom's electronic ignition fitted Lotus Elan +2, i definately felt it, and as i then planted my arm straight onto it's HOT exhaust manifold i felt i didn't feel the benefit...
The burn, YES!
it was a reference to working on SUs I find that 90% of SU trouble can be fixed by setting the distributor up right. Yep been there done that with the shock thing - i also work on Defibs got a shock off one of those while working on it - like getting a sledge hammer to the arm.....
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- 1,088
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It's a very simple system really. Missing from this diagram is the liquid receiver which would sit as close as possible to the condenser outlet before then after that a filter drier. Both must be before the TEV. The receiver acts as a liquid reservoir because you have to fill the system with sufficient refrigerant so the evaporator is full of liquid that is changing state(getting cold) from top to bottom. The needle in the TEV opens to allow more liquid through when the conditions change. It has a temperature sensing bulb that is strapped to the outlet of the evaporator which opens and closes the valve depending on the otlet temp. |If it warms up, it opens allowing more flow. If it gets too cold it reduces flow. As this is liquid still changes state into a gas you have another vessel usually part of the compressor which hopefully then ensures the refrigerant has fully evaporated by the time it has reached the compressor because just like the piston in your car engine, it can only compress gas. If it tries to compress a liquid, BANG!
The difference between this and a system using a capil, which is a fixed restriction to flow, is you have to charge it to run in a much narrower band of conditions so you charge it with gas to ensure it won't wind up with the compressor pumping liquid. Like your fridge at home. Or a dehimidifier. If you try to run one when the ambient is too cold, around zero, you'll probably find the evaporator will lock out with ice. Once that happens airflow stops and it stops removing moisture from the air. We used to try to get away with one three minute defrost per hour, but if some customers complained it was locking out with ice, we'd fit a modified timer that would give two three minute defrosts in the hour. Then some would complain that now they were only extracting for 54 minutes in the hour to which we'd say then use a bloody heater in the room like it says in the manual... If it had a TEV that wouldn't happen, but the machine would have to be much bigger to fit the extra components and cost a lot more.
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- 1,088
- Location
- Worcestershire
Ah, got it now
To be honest it's been decades since i worked on an SU carb. I remember having 'fun?' setting up the twins on my Minis. My S-Type Jag had three and i never touched them once. The auto choke never worked which meant some times i'd have to pop the bonnet and cover half of the air intake with my hand to start it.
For the last thirty years or so it's either been injection or diesels.
Tell a lie, i think the last carb engine i had was the Landy pictured. It was doing 12 to the gallon. So i bought a new dizzy and coil. The current one had ends on the cables that you made up yourself!
I got worse mpg. So i bought a brand new Webber carb for it after reading reports that they give better mpg. Mine went down to 6mpg. So i binned the lot and put a 2.5 diesel in it.
