Ahhhh The Tub Floor's gone

Matt DeVeants · Jul 17, 2010

Hello,

I would like some ideas on what I could use to replace the Floor on by SIII 88" as mine is rotten

and is soon to be folded into beer cans

Thanks,

Matt.

Pikey · Jul 17, 2010

How about another ally floor panel?? they're cheap enough to buy.

jaycraft21 · Jul 17, 2010

Hey matt, Although some may not like this idea (I know my dad don't) I'm going to lift the floor out in mine and place 3/4 (18mm) WBP ply into the base of the floor coating the underside and edges with underseal before final fitting, paint the top side and then replace the aluminium floor on top of this just to add a little more strength. If you didn't want to replace the aluminium floor i'm pretty sure the Ply would be strong enough on it's own.

just a suggestion

steve2286w · Jul 17, 2010

have a look at a previous thread, i sorted mine with 2mm birmabright ally

if youre adding ply best to put it on top of the proper replacement floor

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/series-iii-rear-floor-restoration-89567.html

clivees · Jul 18, 2010

is it the floor plate or the supports ?
Both art cheep and easy to replace.

fenby1976 · Jul 18, 2010

Replacing the alloy floor plate is a bastard of a job even with the tub removed from the chassis. When I did it on my SIII I found there were hundreds of spotwelds and rivets to break. It might be worth considering swapping the whole tub. or just laying new plate over the old.

Matt DeVeants · Jul 18, 2010

It is the alloy floor that is gone and it had been layed over and too that has rotten :suspicious: .

So I was thinking checker plate 2mm as I am going to be carry kit bags in the tub

But I was not sure if it is strong enough ever with the ribs and cross members?

And you can buy them on e-bay

TheMiddle · Jul 18, 2010

Hi,

when i needed to replace the tub crossmembers and tub floor I ended up drilling all the way round edge because of the spot welds and leaving enough to attach some L shaple angleiron to refasten the new floor to.

Very painfull job, unless you've got good reason just go straight over the top of what's already there.

TM

dr pepper · Jul 19, 2010

If you want to use wood, why not use a phenolic sheet, looks a bit and works like wood, only it dunt rot. A local geyser uses it for the floors of trailers he meks, if its good enough fer that it'll do your job.

clivees · Jul 19, 2010

I dont understand its a easy job?
Drill out the spot welds.
Remove old floor
Remove old supports
Replace supports (Tip use axle strap cut up in to bits to sit on the supports rails)
use old floor to mark the positions of the holes
fit new floor
Using best grade pop rivits fix floor in place.
Took me a day including welding and painting the chassie rails.

Matt DeVeants · Jul 20, 2010

Mr Clivees,

Could you please explain the axle strap bit, does it go between the floor and the floor supports or between the floor supports and the Chassis?

steve2286w · Jul 20, 2010

the latter and it is that simple, i ground the riverts off with mini grinder and drilled from underneath for new holes although i took a weekend!

clivees · Jul 26, 2010

Aye Between support rail and Chassis

Ahhhh The Tub Floor's gone

Matt DeVeants

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