Brakes & Suspension & Wiring Recommendations - 1988 90 Restoration

FlyingPete said:

On the subject of brakes and suspension, I would stick with basically standard. Aftermarket parts marketed as "heavy duty" sound great, but unless you're actually loading the Landy down with a lot of stuff they will give a very harsh ride. Same with big lift kits which ruin the suspension geometry and raise the centre of mass, worsening the handling. Standard-spec springs and dampers, and new bushes all round give surprisingly good handling. It will pitch up and down over speed bumps due to the relatively short wheelbase, and roll around a bit in corners due to lack of ARBs, but once you're used to that it's no issue. Likewise, the standard front disc/rear drum setup is more than capable if kept in good order. Spend the money on replacing the brake lines, rebuilding the master cylinder and generally ensuring the system is really sound.

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SPLRover said:

Yes, covered in initial post.

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SPLRover said:

Thanks again FP. Any advice on a single source company for all of the rubber seals, screws, fittings, brake lines etc? I figure it will prove easier to just place an order with one company for these items, rather than have multiple orders with a myriad of companies.

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dag019 said:

I know it was covered in the original post but the point I was making is until the chassis and the bulkhead are repaired/replaced (which ever route you go down) then you don't need to think about brakes, suspension, and wiring. Focus on one thing, complete it to a high standard and then move onto something else. You can have little jobs going on the side but tackle one thing at a time. Trying to do everything all at once is what leads to most projects failing. You will have at least a week of waiting for coats of paint to dry on the chassis and bulkhead after it has been welded/replaced that you can then use for planning the next step.



I would disagree with this, and I would also disagree with trying to place a single large order for everything you need. IN the current world we live in you can get parts delivered next day, and in 2-3 days with free delivery options. Choose the supplier base on cost and delivery rather than all form the same place. With all the planning in the world you are likely to still find yourself short of a couple of parts when you come to do a job and need to order additional anyway. Tying in with what I said above order the parts to do the job you are tackling and any little side jobs you are doing to fill time. do that job and then order the next set of parts. other than chassis and bulkhead you are unlikely to find anything that has much of a lead time. When I bought my looms they were all off the shelf.

If you find yourself in a position where you are waiting a long time for the next part to continue then move onto something else that you can do quickly and is not a huge piece of the project. There will be an endless amount of parts that will need cleaning, rubbing down and painting. you can rebuild small peices while waiting for larger parts (e.g. heater box, seat box, axles, brake calipers, etc.)

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dag019 said:

I know it was covered in the original post but the point I was making is until the chassis and the bulkhead are repaired/replaced (which ever route you go down) then you don't need to think about brakes, suspension, and wiring. Focus on one thing, complete it to a high standard and then move onto something else. You can have little jobs going on the side but tackle one thing at a time. Trying to do everything all at once is what leads to most projects failing. You will have at least a week of waiting for coats of paint to dry on the chassis and bulkhead after it has been welded/replaced that you can then use for planning the next step.



I would disagree with this, and I would also disagree with trying to place a single large order for everything you need. IN the current world we live in you can get parts delivered next day, and in 2-3 days with free delivery options. Choose the supplier base on cost and delivery rather than all form the same place. With all the planning in the world you are likely to still find yourself short of a couple of parts when you come to do a job and need to order additional anyway. Tying in with what I said above order the parts to do the job you are tackling and any little side jobs you are doing to fill time. do that job and then order the next set of parts. other than chassis and bulkhead you are unlikely to find anything that has much of a lead time. When I bought my looms they were all off the shelf.

If you find yourself in a position where you are waiting a long time for the next part to continue then move onto something else that you can do quickly and is not a huge piece of the project. There will be an endless amount of parts that will need cleaning, rubbing down and painting. you can rebuild small peices while waiting for larger parts (e.g. heater box, seat box, axles, brake calipers, etc.)

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meego said:

If the OP wants to start with the things that come later in a resto, and effectively ignore the advice of others who have done it before, then I would just let him wire in mate. All of your post contains good advice, but brakes etc are the priority it seems. I find it a strange attitude TBH.

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SPLRover said:

Thanks again FP. Any advice on a single source company for all of the rubber seals, screws, fittings, brake lines etc? I figure it will prove easier to just place an order with one company for these items, rather than have multiple orders with a myriad of companies.

I've been advised to shop around and will generally do this for the various parts but I do think it will be easier to get a large volume order for the above items (many with sub components) placed with one company.

Also, is there a place I can find parts lists/drawings?

Thanks again

Pete

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v8250 said:

Definitely this.

OP, I really recommend you compose a project plan for your rebuild. I plan my car rebuilds using .xls project plans. Left column listing each work element [really break this down with good detail]. Next column is works timeline [do not underestimate this!], next item cost, next qty, next total, next approx' lead time if needed. Next column I link to my preferred suppliers, then technical notes.

Doing this enables you to 1. properly visualise the scope of works and its complexity, 2. keep a proper track on costs - without this costs can spiral, 3. makes the works easier for you by visualising/planning what needs to be done in a logically organised sequence.

Your rebuild plan can be printed out and/or kept on the laptop. Printing out and putting up on the garage wall is great as you can colour off with a green highlighter when each element is completed. It's very satisfying seeing the rebuild plan slowly fill with green

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meego said:

If the OP wants to start with the things that come later in a resto, and effectively ignore the advice of others who have done it before, then I would just let him wire in mate. All of your post contains good advice, but brakes etc are the priority it seems. I find it a strange attitude TBH.

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dag019 said:

I could see the need for brakes and wiring being a priority if the aim was a rolling restoration over several years of driving which is how I first did my 110. First priority was keeping it on the road and then larger parts were done in an adhoc manner. However looking at the photos that is not the case for this. And with what has already been stated as chassis work needed and the cost is no object view expressed above, I would be getting a galv chassis and bulkhead and starting from there. While you wait for the lead time on them you could rebuild and paint the axles so when the new chassis arrived they are ready to fit underneath it.

From op's comparisons to the 200k rebuilds I would assume as much as possible of this is going to be new replacements so if you have a new chassis and bulkhead there is an awful lot you can fit to that before you need to take any parts of the existing vehicle if everything is being replaced with new parts.

I would also echo @v8250 points regarding proper planning. I have just rebuilt the front end of my 110 after a fire and although not a full rebuild took longer and cost more than I had originally planned. I also suffered from scope creep where I did more as it was there and easily accessible. I also worked with a digital jobs list that had big ticket items broken down into the smaller jobs required to be able to achieve. I didn't bother with cost tracking as similar to op overall cost was not a factor but budgeting to spread the cost was, and time was not an issue as I had a storage and another vehicle to use. the important part was jobs order and what needed to be done prior to enable the actual task to be completed.
E.G. the very simple task of fitting the new bulkhead (not any of the fittings/dash etc just the plain bulkhead), should be simple job, unbolt the old one, bolt the new on in its place, about 10 bolts, see the ordered job list below:

Replace bulkhead:
remove old bulkhead - complete unit
remove old bulkhead support brackets
sand old bulkhead support brackets
t-wash galv bulkhead
t-wash new galv hinges
seam seal galv bulkhead
prime galv bulkhead
prime new galv hinges
prime old bulkhead support brackets
top coat galv bulkhead x3
top coat new galv hinges x3
topcoat bulkhead support brackets x3
cavity wax galv bulkhead
fit support brackets to galv bulkhead
fit galv bulkhead to chassis and sills
fit new galv hinges
fit old door bottom
align galv bulkhead to tub
remove old door bottoms

From the above job list you can then put together a shopping list of parts, tools, fixings and consumables that are required. There is likely to be overlap between jobs and once you start the lists of required tools and consumables should reduce as you already have them.

You can also see form the above list how long there is waiting for paint dry before you can give it another coat or fit it. I was using high grade enamel so the dry time between coats was about 24h and the time from finishing to it hardening enough to be able to fit was about a week. So you needed to plan things to do in that time so there was concurrent activity.

Click to expand...

v8250 said:

Definitely this.

OP, I really recommend you compose a project plan for your rebuild. I plan my car rebuilds using .xls project plans. Left column listing each work element [really break this down with good detail]. Next column is works timeline [do not underestimate this!], next item cost, next qty, next total, next approx' lead time if needed. Next column I link to my preferred suppliers, then technical notes.

Doing this enables you to 1. properly visualise the scope of works and its complexity, 2. keep a proper track on costs - without this costs can spiral, 3. makes the works easier for you by visualising/planning what needs to be done in a logically organised sequence.

Your rebuild plan can be printed out and/or kept on the laptop. Printing out and putting up on the garage wall is great as you can colour off with a green highlighter when each element is completed. It's very satisfying seeing the rebuild plan slowly fill with green

Click to expand...

meego said:

If the OP wants to start with the things that come later in a resto, and effectively ignore the advice of others who have done it before, then I would just let him wire in mate. All of your post contains good advice, but brakes etc are the priority it seems. I find it a strange attitude TBHWher

Click to expand...

meego said:

If the OP wants to start with the things that come later in a resto, and effectively ignore the advice of others who have done it before, then I would just let him wire in mate. All of your post contains good advice, but brakes etc are the priority it seems. I find it a strange attitude TBH.

Click to expand...

dag019 said:

I could see the need for brakes and wiring being a priority if the aim was a rolling restoration over several years of driving which is how I first did my 110. First priority was keeping it on the road and then larger parts were done in an adhoc manner. However looking at the photos that is not the case for this. And with what has already been stated as chassis work needed and the cost is no object view expressed above, I would be getting a galv chassis and bulkhead and starting from there. While you wait for the lead time on them you could rebuild and paint the axles so when the new chassis arrived they are ready to fit underneath it.

From op's comparisons to the 200k rebuilds I would assume as much as possible of this is going to be new replacements so if you have a new chassis and bulkhead there is an awful lot you can fit to that before you need to take any parts of the existing vehicle if everything is being replaced with new parts.

I would also echo @v8250 points regarding proper planning. I have just rebuilt the front end of my 110 after a fire and although not a full rebuild took longer and cost more than I had originally planned. I also suffered from scope creep where I did more as it was there and easily accessible. I also worked with a digital jobs list that had big ticket items broken down into the smaller jobs required to be able to achieve. I didn't bother with cost tracking as similar to op overall cost was not a factor but budgeting to spread the cost was, and time was not an issue as I had a storage and another vehicle to use. the important part was jobs order and what needed to be done prior to enable the actual task to be completed.
E.G. the very simple task of fitting the new bulkhead (not any of the fittings/dash etc just the plain bulkhead), should be simple job, unbolt the old one, bolt the new on in its place, about 10 bolts, see the ordered job list below:

Replace bulkhead:
remove old bulkhead - complete unit
remove old bulkhead support brackets
sand old bulkhead support brackets
t-wash galv bulkhead
t-wash new galv hinges
seam seal galv bulkhead
prime galv bulkhead
prime new galv hinges
prime old bulkhead support brackets
top coat galv bulkhead x3
top coat new galv hinges x3
topcoat bulkhead support brackets x3
cavity wax galv bulkhead
fit support brackets to galv bulkhead
fit galv bulkhead to chassis and sills
fit new galv hinges
fit old door bottom
align galv bulkhead to tub
remove old door bottoms

From the above job list you can then put together a shopping list of parts, tools, fixings and consumables that are required. There is likely to be overlap between jobs and once you start the lists of required tools and consumables should reduce as you already have them.

You can also see form the above list how long there is waiting for paint dry before you can give it another coat or fit it. I was using high grade enamel so the dry time between coats was about 24h and the time from finishing to it hardening enough to be able to fit was about a week. So you needed to plan things to do in that time so there was concurrent activity excellent, thank you

Click to expand...

dag019 said:

I could see the need for brakes and wiring being a priority if the aim was a rolling restoration over several years of driving which is how I first did my 110. First priority was keeping it on the road and then larger parts were done in an adhoc manner. However looking at the photos that is not the case for this. And with what has already been stated as chassis work needed and the cost is no object view expressed above, I would be getting a galv chassis and bulkhead and starting from there. While you wait for the lead time on them you could rebuild and paint the axles so when the new chassis arrived they are ready to fit underneath it.

From op's comparisons to the 200k rebuilds I would assume as much as possible of this is going to be new replacements so if you have a new chassis and bulkhead there is an awful lot you can fit to that before you need to take any parts of the existing vehicle if everything is being replaced with new parts.

I would also echo @v8250 points regarding proper planning. I have just rebuilt the front end of my 110 after a fire and although not a full rebuild took longer and cost more than I had originally planned. I also suffered from scope creep where I did more as it was there and easily accessible. I also worked with a digital jobs list that had big ticket items broken down into the smaller jobs required to be able to achieve. I didn't bother with cost tracking as similar to op overall cost was not a factor but budgeting to spread the cost was, and time was not an issue as I had a storage and another vehicle to use. the important part was jobs order and what needed to be done prior to enable the actual task to be completed.
E.G. the very simple task of fitting the new bulkhead (not any of the fittings/dash etc just the plain bulkhead), should be simple job, unbolt the old one, bolt the new on in its place, about 10 bolts, see the ordered job list below:

Replace bulkhead:
remove old bulkhead - complete unit
remove old bulkhead support brackets
sand old bulkhead support brackets
t-wash galv bulkhead
t-wash new galv hinges
seam seal galv bulkhead
prime galv bulkhead
prime new galv hinges
prime old bulkhead support brackets
top coat galv bulkhead x3
top coat new galv hinges x3
topcoat bulkhead support brackets x3
cavity wax galv bulkhead
fit support brackets to galv bulkhead
fit galv bulkhead to chassis and sills
fit new galv hinges
fit old door bottom
align galv bulkhead to tub
remove old door bottoms

From the above job list you can then put together a shopping list of parts, tools, fixings and consumables that are required. There is likely to be overlap between jobs and once you start the lists of required tools and consumables should reduce as you already have them.

You can also see form the above list how long there is waiting for paint dry before you can give it another coat or fit it. I was using high grade enamel so the dry time between coats was about 24h and the time from finishing to it hardening enough to be able to fit was about a week. So you needed to plan things to do in that time so there was concurrent activity.

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KISSMYAURA said:

LRworkshop

click here

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SPLRover said:

Where on this thread am I ignoring the advice of others as you state? What do you find strange? If I wanted advice on welding I would ask for it but I do not require this hence I have not asked for it. I work with upwards of 70 ton of welding in my vocation on far more complex stricter than a Land Rover chassis and do not require advice on welding 180 kg. This is the second negative post you have posted following my response to your comments on the financial aspect of the project which I did not ask for advice on yet you chose to comment and when I stated my reasoning you felt the need to tell me to "chill out". Here you are again commenting on things with no factual background.

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