Ahh crap!

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The ****ter is the thinking mans workbench.

ANYWAY I got some ideas.

A rapid way to drain a full tank is to undo your fuel feed pipe and stick a piece of hose on it and into a drum or two.

Connect your pump to a 12v supply (on a petrol it won't run constantly til the engine fires up - not sure about diesel) and the fuel pump will do it's job very well very quickly. That will get it low enough to drop.

Also, before anything, find your tank breather which lurks near the rear axle A frame usually, clipped to the inside of the drivers side chassis.

Get someone to blow down it (she'll love you for it) and feel around the suspected area for air leaks. You might be able to clean it up and seal it with chewing gum without even removing the tank :D

Cheers!
 
btw I dropped the fuel tank on mine with no issues with rusted bolts, left tow bar in situ
so you never know..
 
Mr Noisy said:
The ****ter is the thinking mans workbench.

ANYWAY I got some ideas.

A rapid way to drain a full tank is to undo your fuel feed pipe and stick a piece of hose on it and into a drum or two.

Connect your pump to a 12v supply (on a petrol it won't run constantly til the engine fires up - not sure about diesel) and the fuel pump will do it's job very well very quickly. That will get it low enough to drop.

Also, before anything, find your tank breather which lurks near the rear axle A frame usually, clipped to the inside of the drivers side chassis.

Get someone to blow down it (she'll love you for it) and feel around the suspected area for air leaks. You might be able to clean it up and seal it with chewing gum without even removing the tank :D

Cheers!
Click to expand...


Hmm, its a disco 1 so no 12v tank pump, just the engine lift pump. I'll pump her out somehow.

I'm leaving it for a day or two to calm down a bit, cant do anything when you got the red mist :mad:

I did think about bolting the floor in, and i have even passed a thought about drillin gthe rivets and taking it out but i did such a good job with the adhesive it would probably wreck it and that means another floor panel and so on....

I'll have to drop the tank i guess, i can see this little job leading to split fuel pipes, non-working tank gauge and many othe problems.

Dave
 
Ok, i been a thinkun' and have two options.

1 - drop the tank, this means draining it and undoing all the pipes etc risking splits and more leaks BUT it means my nice new floor is intact.

2 - drill the rivets and lift the floor, this means the tank and pipes survive but my new floor risks being shagged due to the adhesive.

Option 1 makes it harder to see the leak as the tank will be empty and have a big hole where the sender unit came out making it harder to pressurise etc for leak-tracing.

Option 2 makes leak-tracing easier as it will be full up and i only have to drive her or bounce around a bit to make it **** out but access is good once the floor is out and there is no risk to the sender unit or fill pipes.

SO, what would you guys do in this predicament???

All opinions apreciated as always.

Dave
 
Sorry Dave, I thought the diesels had a tank lift pump!!

Doh!!

I would drop the tank anyway over lifting the floor.

You will easily see leaks, and it probably needs to come out anyway, if not just to refresh the bolts and paint the chassis!!
 
took the tank out of my 110 recently and its not too bad a job just takes time as the years of crap accumulate around the areas you need to be.

If your going to do it protect your eyes (sounds simple i know but even after thinking mine was clean bits kept falling onto me)

get some spray to help free the bolts first (again i didnt and managed to snap 3 of 4 strap bolts but it didnt bother me as I needed it off and the rear x member is getting replaced anyway)

tow bar brackets and anti roll bar needed to be removed/disconnected to get to it and might help to have someone with you cos if the strap falls on you its gonna hurt.

Edit anti roll bar doesnt need removing just the top bolts need taking out and then it can be pushed out of the way.
 
not looked or tried it, but if you leave the tow bar brackets an roll bar on, drop the tank
onto them, will it give enough room for a pokey feely to the breather, or see
whats going on?

dont lift the floor as if tanks beyond repair in situ, tis gonna have to come out anyway.
then its double red mist....
 
How do you have so much hassle snapping bolts on a 94 when I have a 'used to be ultra rotten before I welded it and it spend 2 years at the seaside' 92 model and I suffer from remarkably few sheared bolts.

In fact compared to modern cars I find the bolts unfathomabpy strong. Usually on the landy I am slowly unwinding bolts that I would never has expected to come out!

Unless thats the issue, maybe the 300s were cheapened off. Is a 300 all metric? Cos mine still has plenty of imperial, mostly chassis stuff is imperial whereas body fittings are metric.

Good luck anyway :)
 
He he thanks guys, it would be lovely if the body just lifted off.

Of course the chassis will get treated when i'm in there, goes without saying.

As to the bolts well i dont know if they're metric or proper as i'm finding some sockets better in imperial than in metric the chassis seems more imperial but the engine more metric. Good old British build, can't beat it :)

I'm gonna drain off 25 ltrs as thats the biggest drum i can find the drive then rest off, then i'll drop the tow hitch and top ARB fittings and try and drop the tank out. Hopefully its just a hole i drilled and can be sealed by melting it over with a hot iron.

Does the filler neck come off at the tank or at the filler plate??

Dave
 
Filler neck is a steel tube which drops down from filler plate, then angles in towards tank, then meets a horizontal 12" long piece of rubber pipe which joins it to the horizontal moulded spout in the tank.

Should be able to undo jubilee and pull pipe off tank.

Unless I'm wrong AGAIN! :D

There is a fuel fill air return pipe also which needs disconnecting, but should be a similar principle. This is a long rubber hose that goes from tank to top of filler neck.

Cheers.
 
Ok, thanks.

Looking at this picture...
DSCN1587.JPG


I can see the large filler pipe and clip but where does the small-1" pipe join? Is that the vent pipe?

Plus there is a very small-10mm nylon pipe that goes somewhere, any ideas??

Dave


Looking at it more, what DOES that small pipe do, why would it need two vent pipes?
It is this one that i am suspecting of being fecked.
 
Last edited:
Ok big pipe filler pipe, easy.

1" pipe filler vent pipe, let's air oh when diesel goes in, goes up to top near filler cap, needs to be unclipped from there.

Small nylon pipe, tank breather, let's air in when engine is sucking fuel out (remember tank is sealed when filler cap is on), this is attached somewhere around your OSR wheel arch, mine was clipped to the chassis near the OSR seatbelt floor mount.

Cheers.
 
Zoom in on the pic and you can see the clip near the bracket!! But I don't see no pipe :(

Again, mine was there, but mines a 3.5...

Anyway, it can't be far off :D
 
The fuel pipes going to and from the sender unit are hard plastic with a union heat shrunk into the ends,i changed the sender on my 200tdi classic a few months back as the small return pipe had rusted through and was filling the well on top of the tank with fuel which was then blowing back and all over the tailgate ect when driving.Being able to undo the pipes from the sender unit was a big problem on mine.
 
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