Again: EWS and TD4 swap- help needed

anitarrc · Sep 26, 2019

Grrrr. This doesn't usually happen to me but today it did.
Some moron connected the fuel pump to the EWS feed from the EDC and some common earth from the EDC.
Soon everything went wrong, they asked me to do a diagnostic, correct the wiring and fit a Bearmach pump.
Ok.
Only it stayed immobilized and the engine ECU or EDC refused to send orders to the fuel pump. Checked all the usual stuff and decided to need a 'new' engine ECU.
Then it seemed I had to change the EWS, too.
Finished all that and my Hawkeye Pro told me that the keys are programmed in the CCU but the EWS STILL wants another code.. both ECUs are from the same car and "should" talk to each other.
I opted for synchronization in the menu and thus didn't work either, it said there was no signal from the engine ECU.

EWS generates no error code and the EDC does.. immobilized it says .

What next? Do I need to swap the CCU as well?

I have been told on another forum that I don't need to but I will happily listen to your advice

td4van · Sep 26, 2019

Did you swap the transponders from the donor car to the customer’s car?

Engine ecu, ews and key transponder all need to match

Nodge68 · Sep 26, 2019

anitarrc said:
What next? Do I need to swap the CCU as well?

Further to the above comment. The CCU does remote door locking only.

anitarrc · Sep 26, 2019

So you are saying it works like the BMW diamond shaped key. Will look I hope it came with the parcel I ordered in the UK.

andyfreelandy · Sep 26, 2019

It is true...

td4van said:
Engine ecu, ews and key transponder all need to match

The chip is only about 6 mm x 8mm. I hope you have it.

anitarrc · Sep 26, 2019

OK just found it it was taped under the the CCU. Thanks... I found this Fred
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/l322-programming-new-key-to-the-ignition.178700/
So this works the same then? I just wonder why they don't explain it correctly in the the workshop manual

had assumed it works like disco 2 or p38 of the same generation.

andyfreelandy · Sep 26, 2019

Let us know if the chip solves the problem!!

anitarrc · Sep 26, 2019

this b...y thing is driving me nuts.

things I have done (remember, Freelander wasn't starting, not even the pump was humming)
bought a pack of all things needed to mobilise it in the UK : TD4 EDC, BCU,EWS, Key chip and even a barrel.
Changed EWS, Engine ECU (EDC) and now the key chip.
it still won't recognize the key

.
the message I get from the EWS inputs is immobilized (key) starter motor disabled.
Engine ECU says timeout from immobilizer.

What did I forget?

I did not change the CCU because it says in various sources the CCU is not involved in immobilisation, only in doors and alarm operation.
Needless to say I am at wit's end. I can get any p38 started or disco 2, always figured it out in the end.

Nodge68 · Sep 26, 2019

anitarrc said:
So you are saying it works like the BMW diamond shaped key.

Pretty much the same system.

anitarrc said:
had assumed it works like disco 2 or p38 of the same generation

The 2000 onwards FL1 has more comprehensive immobilization (from BMW), and is designed to make it difficult to steal.
Make sure the connections on the EWS are secure. There's been instances where the connections are corroded, and also instances where the EWS has failed altogether.

anitarrc · Sep 26, 2019

Nodge68 said:
Pretty much the same system.

The 2000 onwards FL1 has more comprehensive immobilization (from BMW), and is designed to make it difficult to steal.
Make sure the connections on the EWS are secure. There's been instances where the connections are corroded, and also instances where the EWS has failed altogether.

I just changed the EWS and trust me that connector with the slider on the plug doesn't come loose easily. it was bought as a set together with the engine ECU and the rest of the stuff. Also, the EWS is talking to the diagnostic.
But I can't get it to recognise the key.

Nodge68 · Sep 26, 2019

anitarrc said:
I just changed the EWS and trust me that connector with the slider on the plug doesn't come loose easily. it was bought as a set together with the engine ECU and the rest of the stuff. Also, the EWS is talking to the diagnostic.
But I can't get it to recognise the key.

Hopefully they supplied a matching set?

anitarrc · Sep 26, 2019

Nodge68 said:
Hopefully they supplied a matching set?

That's what it was sold as.
Do you know whether I have to change the CCU as well?
It should talk to each other or what is the trick to make sure it does?

andyfreelandy · Sep 26, 2019

Going back to your original post and noting that the wiring has been messed around with it may be worth checking all EWS wiring is now correct. The EDC is not getting the code it needs, are the cables for this correct?

anitarrc · Sep 26, 2019

Good point. We are having a tropical downpour so will have to wait a bit, don't want to soak the cables. It is 2pm here so there is time to reef the EWS out again. Pig to get to the plug.

anitarrc · Sep 27, 2019

Please clarify @Nodge68 @andyfreelandy [GALLERY=]

[/GALLERY]

I had once a big struggle with a BMW x5, my mate had towed it in on a tow truck and I had next to no fault description. It turned out to be the coil, but that I could see on the L322 diagnostics. Unfortunately the l322 module isn't talking to the Freelander EWS, I have only the Haweye pro and a old, Taiwanese multibrand diagnostic which isn't too bad.

andyfreelandy · Sep 27, 2019

I'm sure the coil is generic. In other words the coil is the same for all vehicles and does not have to match the key chip. I have changed coils with no problem without changing anything else.

Nodge68 · Sep 27, 2019

Item 2 is the transponder coil. That's not coded, it's just a coil. However it has to be functional, or it can't get the code from the key transponder chip.

anitarrc · Sep 28, 2019

[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]
I am still getting this with EDC and EWS and Key chip and the other coil.
Lower down it says immobilized (key)
I don't understand what I have to do.. it really drives me crazy.
I'll go to my MacBook now and post some pics of the signal.. please help I am desperately in need of a solution

anitarrc · Sep 28, 2019

here is what I get without a key at the ignition lock[GALLERY=]

[/GALLERY]
that is the key supposeddly matching the EWS
and another key does something in between. ( that is the previous EWS' key chip, I also tried one of a NAS V6 and had a very similar result.

andyfreelandy · Sep 28, 2019

I have no idea what the signal should look like I am afraid. My suspicion is that the chip and ews are not matched or the wiring modifications are still causing problems. Do you have another vehicle to substitute parts from? This would test the chip and units are matched.

Again: EWS and TD4 swap- help needed

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads