Advice please for engine removal.

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frog hopper

frog hopper

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,764
Location
france
I'm up to my armpits with taking Norman the 90's engine out to swap the clutch, he is a 1990 200tdi.
My question is that I have an engine hoist that I borrowed off a mate, ( he will give me a hand removing the engine), will it be suitable for the 200tdi? even with the front bumper removed I can only just get the hoist hook roughly centered on the engine if I set the arm to it's max length, but this is only rated to 250k. I also have a load leveler, and the lifting eyes are in place on the engine.
I have done a search and found a photo of someone lifting a 200tdi off the max reach of the hoist arm, unfortunately the weight limits were printed on the side away from the camera.
Any idea what the weight of a 200tdi is?
Would it be within the safe overload of the hoist?
Should I try and hire/buy a hoist with greater reach?
 
A 200tdi engine is between 220 and 250k depending on how many ancillaries still attached.
Engine out is pretty straight forward with a tdi unlike later models.
When out an old tire handy to lower it into and hold it stable on the floor while worked on.
 
frog hopper said:
I'm up to my armpits with taking Norman the 90's engine out to swap the clutch, he is a 1990 200tdi.
My question is that I have an engine hoist that I borrowed off a mate, ( he will give me a hand removing the engine), will it be suitable for the 200tdi? even with the front bumper removed I can only just get the hoist hook roughly centered on the engine if I set the arm to it's max length, but this is only rated to 250k. I also have a load leveler, and the lifting eyes are in place on the engine.
I have done a search and found a photo of someone lifting a 200tdi off the max reach of the hoist arm, unfortunately the weight limits were printed on the side away from the camera.
Any idea what the weight of a 200tdi is?
Would it be within the safe overload of the hoist?
Should I try and hire/buy a hoist with greater reach?
Click to expand...
It will lift it, but if it seems brinky, just unbolt some bits until you are happy with the lift. There is plenty of stuff you can take off those.Power steering pump and alternator must weigh over 10kg, and you have to remove the starter motor.

I think taking the engine out is easier than removing the gearbox. Removing the radiator gives you more room to swing the engine around without worry.
 
As Turbs says above. I have removed the alternator and steering pump. I have also removed the exhaust manifold as it is easier to get to the starter motor :) My crane is also 250kgs at full stretch. I have a stand that I can lower the engine onto once removed as I don't trust the crane to hold it for any length of time! Mine will be removed next Friday so you can tell me if it held.... :homer:
 
Thanks for all the comments guys, my mate will be available to watch over me on Friday so with luck will be bolting back together later in the day. Had to go fishing today for some reason, didn't catch anything, still a bad days fishing beats a good days working, and when your retired jobs seem to take 2nd place.
We'll get it done for the weekend.
 
frog hopper said:
Thanks for all the comments guys, my mate will be available to watch over me on Friday so with luck will be bolting back together later in the day. Had to go fishing today for some reason, didn't catch anything, still a bad days fishing beats a good days working, and when your retired jobs seem to take 2nd place.
We'll get it done for the weekend.
Click to expand...
How did it go? Did the crane survive :vb-bouncy3:
 
Don’t forget a trolley jack to stop the gearbox nose dropping.
Weld a piece of flat metal on the clutch arm on the rear of the pivot point. Just incase it breaks in the future. ;)
 
OK guys, the engine is out and the hoist did survive, engine now lowered onto a pallet on the legs of the hoist so safe for the time being. I have supported the front of the gearbox with a 2 ton sissor jack on a huge block of wood, this so there will be no problem with "creep" in the drybollics of a trolley jack, and I can leave it like that for days, it is also very easy to make fine adjustments.
My mates hoist came complete with a levelling unit which made things much easier once I worked out how to fit it.
I removed the power steering pump and held that up out the way, saves faffing about with hose unions. I removed the engine mount brackets while removing the nuts on the engine mounts, this was a faff but made moving of the engine easier, typical of me spending ages having a smoke and just looking at it, no wires or pipes were pinched/stressed.
BUT, I have wondered wether it would have been easier to take the gear/tranny box out and do it that way, because I still had to remove the bell housing cover and floor plates from the interior to get at the last couple of nuts on the bell housing. For anyone else I don't suppose this would be much of a job, but as I put loads of soundproofing in my cab, a lot of it fixed with black gaffer tape, I have given myself another couple of hours work putting all that back as I would like it.
Having said that I am happy to have the engine out and on a pallet cos I've done some work on it today after watching the coronation. After taking the pressure plate and clutch plate off I removed the spigot bearing (think thats what it's called) by filling the center with grease and ****ting a close fitting socket into it, took a few good clouts with a decent hammer, but drybolick action drove the bearing out, quite pleased that worked.
Going to fit a new crank rear oil seal while we are there, I think I shall knock up a wooden seal driver on me wood lathe tomorrow to make sure it goes in square.
So after all that did I find the source of the noises I was worrying about? Well I hope so, the release bearing had 2 or 3 mm of play in it, it rotated quite smoothly but rattles when shaken so I guess that was it after all, I shall be crossing my fingers when everything is back together
 
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Engine Block weight

while the engine is stripped down I thought I’d check it’s weight Bare block apart from camshaft is approx 85kg so I’ll stick with the crane for lifting it!
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getting it back in a lot harder, I gave up and bought the leveller then went in right away

a seal driver good idea I used some wood blocks and tapped around gently not perfect but it didn’t leak
 
frog hopper said:
OK guys, the engine is out and the hoist did survive, engine now lowered onto a pallet on the legs of the hoist so safe for the time being. I have supported the front of the gearbox with a 2 ton sissor jack on a huge block of wood, this so there will be no problem with "creep" in the drybollics of a trolley jack, and I can leave it like that for days, it is also very easy to make fine adjustments.
My mates hoist came complete with a levelling unit which made things much easier once I worked out how to fit it.
I removed the power steering pump and held that up out the way, saves faffing about with hose unions. I removed the engine mount brackets while removing the nuts on the engine mounts, this was a faff but made moving of the engine easier, typical of me spending ages having a smoke and just looking at it, no wires or pipes were pinched/stressed.
BUT, I have wondered wether it would have been easier to take the gear/tranny box out and do it that way, because I still had to remove the bell housing cover and floor plates from the interior to get at the last couple of nuts on the bell housing. For anyone else I don't suppose this would be much of a job, but as I put loads of soundproofing in my cab, a lot of it fixed with black gaffer tape, I have given myself another couple of hours work putting all that back as I would like it.
Having said that I am happy to have the engine out and on a pallet cos I've done some work on it today after watching the coronation. After taking the pressure plate and clutch plate off I removed the spigot bearing (think thats what it's called) by filling the center with grease and ****ting a close fitting socket into it, took a few good clouts with a decent hammer, but drybolick action drove the bearing out, quite pleased that worked.
Going to fit a new crank rear oil seal while we are there, I think I shall knock up a wooden seal driver on me wood lathe tomorrow to make sure it goes in square.
So after all that did I find the source of the noises I was worrying about? Well I hope so, the release bearing had 2 or 3 mm of play in it, it rotated quite smoothly but rattles when shaken so I guess that was it after all, I shall be crossing my fingers when everything is back together
Click to expand...
Nice work. Hope you used the best rear crank seal available (think it’s the cortico one) and put some hylomar blue around the seal too.
 
Some photies for you.
IMG_2819.JPG

IMG_2818.JPG


IMG_2817.JPG


IMG_2821.JPG


You can see why chippies are called chippies, all over the bleedin place.
IMG_2822.JPG

One rear crank oil seal insertion tool, 100 year old oak I had lying about, hard as the hob of hell, but just the job for this.

IMG_2823.JPG


There ya go, 1st time and straight in with a good few sharp taps. I do get a lot of satisfaction from making tools to make things easier for me.

IMG_2824.JPG
 
I'm late to the party as usual, but I agree with you on taking the gearboxes out instead. I don't know why, but I have a hatred of working on exhaust manifolds, so will always look at the alternatives. I also found that having the (separated) gearbox on your chest and lifting it up is by far the easiest way to get it lined up with the clutch.
 
I am long past lifting gearbox's on my chest boguing.:) I do not remove any manifolds or ancillary's when removing a 200 but the I do have a tractor and loader.:D
 
Last edited:
That chalice as just the job, saved having to remove flywheel housing from block.
Looks like you used the proper seal so no need to worry about using Hylomar as that green stuff on the outer rim is a sealer.
 
tottot said:
That chalice as just the job, saved having to remove flywheel housing from block.
Looks like you used the proper seal so no need to worry about using Hylomar as that green stuff on the outer rim is a sealer.
Click to expand...
Phew..............that makes me feel a bit better thanks, just didn't think of sealant.
 
Well the engine is finally back in thank god, my mate came round to give me a hand pushing and pulling. One thing I did to try and make life easier was to remove two of the studs on the flywheel housing and replace with long bolts with the head cut off as guides, made the positioning of the engine to bell housing a doddle. So after a bit of faffing about the studs were all in and tight, then the real laugh started, it must have taken us an hour to get the engine mounts back in place, why? I don't know, just needed a lot of jiggling about. Finally in place, now to fit all the hoses/wires etc back in place.
So one tired but happy bunny.:cool:
:cool:
 
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