Accelerator wont work in gear.

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P38guy said:
VERY true is there such a thing as diagnostics school ? I have got by by using rave in conjunction with diag but would like to be more competent :eek:
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Not that i know of. Do a five year apprenticeship. Then work in a garage for twenty or thirty years that may help. Being a good mechanic is not quite as easy as some weekend warriors percieve it to be. :D:D
 
Op only looking on my phone bfiefly I can see your rpm is set above the 750 but even in drive I notice it drops a lot it should only slightly drop and return but it look to me it was droping by itself I think you have a load propblem on pump either pump or ECM
When in reverse although the tacko drops do the revs of the engine drop too can you hear it by ear the reason I ask its as if reverse it causing some sort of short.
 
Grit Valve said:
Op only looking on my phone bfiefly I can see your rpm is set above the 750 but even in drive I notice it drops a lot it should only slightly drop and return but it look to me it was droping by itself I think you have a load propblem on pump either pump or ECM
When in reverse although the tacko drops do the revs of the engine drop too can you hear it by ear the reason I ask its as if reverse it causing some sort of short.
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When fuel is increased by ECU quantity servo feeds back that increase to ECU to qualify it. If the requested increase is different from the feed back a fuel flow quantity fault should be logged. It needs to be on live data to check if ALL the inputs and outputs at any given point. Engine ECU. Gearbox ECU are normal. Any abnormal input or output should point to the cause. It is an interesting Enigma.
 
Op in the video just after the main beams come on you do somthing , I think your grabbing the gear stick but I see no change on the gear selector in the dash ? The revs drop right down as if you were in reverse , but your not ?

Each time you come out of gear and put it in n or p the revs shoot up to nearly 1000rpm as if its been straining.

And were you diving for a shorts moment it looked like you drive from first to second gear , or maybe it was the way you slowly revved it , if so you still had hand brake on , just one think I think you should check it the xyz switch on diagnostics , check inputs .
 
Op in the video just after the main beams come on you do somthing , I think your grabbing the gear stick but I see no change on the gear selector in the dash ? The revs drop right down as if you were in reverse , but your not ?

Each time you come out of gear and put it in n or p the revs shoot up to nearly 1000rpm as if its been straining.

And were you diving for a shorts moment it looked like you drive from first to second gear , or maybe it was the way you slowly revved it , if so you still had hand brake on , just one thing I think you should check it the xyz switch on diagnostics , check inputs .
 
Grit Valve said:
Op in the video just after the main beams come on you do somthing , I think your grabbing the gear stick but I see no change on the gear selector in the dash ? The revs drop right down as if you were in reverse , but your not ?
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I switched on the Air-con, sorry I forgot to put that.

I have found a friend of a friend that has a dealer diagnostic computer that will have a look at it today.

One thing thats confusing me is, why doesn't it do it when the engine is cold? You have to be driving for at least 15min before it will do it.
 
gib6933 said:
I switched on the Air-con, sorry I forgot to put that.

I have found a friend of a friend that has a dealer diagnostic computer that will have a look at it today.

One thing thats confusing me is, why doesn't it do it when the engine is cold? You have to be driving for at least 15min before it will do it.
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when cold the fuel is enriched .

So it seems it is the fuel trims, putting the load on ie air con ect will make the ecu enrich the fuel to compansate the load but yours is struggling its the pump that has to make the alterations and its not , maybe wammers can explain in more detail as he is better at that the me :D
 
Grit Valve said:
when cold the fuel is enriched .

So it seems it is the fuel trims, putting the load on ie air con ect will make the ecu enrich the fuel to compansate the load but yours is struggling its the pump that has to make the alterations and its not , maybe wammers can explain in more detail as he is better at that the me :D
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I have already explained what happens with the idle control and throttle demand. If there is ANYTHING wrong in that respect there HAS to be a fault code logged. If the fuel quantity feed back unit fails the engine will not run, because the ECU does not know where it is setting the quantity servo to, so the ECU will shut the engine down and put on the Mil lamp..
 
Ok I have left it with the guy. He had p38 looms and ECU's dotted all over the place.

I stood with him for an hour or so and all we could find was the fuel temp sensor was showing 8deg, much too low.

He also said that he hadn't seen this problem before, so I have left it with him.
 
gib6933 said:
Ok I have left it with the guy. He had p38 looms and ECU's dotted all over the place.

I stood with him for an hour or so and all we could find was the fuel temp sensor was showing 8deg, much too low.

He also said that he hadn't seen this problem before, so I have left it with him.
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Was that with a warm engine or a cold engine?
 
Engine temp was showing about 85deg, after 20min driving.

I was toying with the idea of braking the car yesterday, but now I'm determined to find out what the problem is. Im not being beaten by it!
 
gib6933 said:
Engine temp was showing about 85deg, after 20min driving.

I was toying with the idea of braking the car yesterday, but now I'm determined to find out what the problem is. Im not being beaten by it!
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A new temp sensor is cheap enough, if it's reading that all the time hot or cold it will be effecting fuelling but i doubt it would cause your problems. Get it on dedicated diagnostics then you might find something to get your teeth into.
 
Yes gib agreed with wammers he should be looking at fueling and what's happening under load , I do hope its a proper diagnostics machine not a fault code reader type , they No good .

I forgot to say you could of done your own self diagnostics and seen what what thrown up
See my other thread self diagnostics for the guide .

Wammers it will only cut out if there is insufficient fuel its not automaticly cut as you can see in the vidieo the revs drop to around 400 rpm by the looks of it .
 
Grit Valve said:
Yes gib agreed with wammers he should be looking at fueling and what's happening under load , I do hope its a proper diagnostics machine not a fault code reader type , they No good .

I forgot to say you could of done your own self diagnostics and seen what what thrown up
See my other thread self diagnostics for the guide .

Wammers it will only cut out if there is insufficient fuel its not automaticly cut as you can see in the vidieo the revs drop to around 400 rpm by the looks of it .
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Have not seen the video, i was not talking about his car, just what happens if there is a fuel feed back sensor fault. If it's failing there should be a fault code if it fails altogether engine will shut down.
 
Think you are on the right track with the pressure switch and the failed ones that I have seen have been failing to switch the pump on (as per yours). Not sure how you have done your checks but I would confirm where the problem is by checking to see if the pressure switch is sending a gnd signal to the relay when the pressure is low. Don't forget that this could be caused by poor connections due to some idiot incorrectly probing and damaging the terminals. I would be supprised if this has caused the engine power problems as the EMS diesel only needs a road speed input from ABS and there is no CAN Bus for them to have a chat about the state of the vehicle.
 
Hurrah! ITS FIXED!!:)

It was the fuel temperature sensor.
IMG_7436.JPG

The guy bypassed the fuel temperature sensor on the slate coloured wire just as it goes into the ecu with a resistor and the car worked as it should, so he replaced the fuel temperature sensor.

Its fantastic, it pulls harder starts better and the delay on the throttle is dramatically reduced.

He thinks that its something to do with reducing the toque in gear when its cold? Apparently at one point it thought the fuel was -15deg. I don't know, Im just over the moon about it.

Thanks for all your help! I really was lost, without you the car would now be on ebay in a thousand bits, minus the engine and ecu.
 
gib6933 said:
Hurrah! ITS FIXED!!:)

It was the fuel temperature sensor.
View attachment 53336

The guy bypassed the fuel temperature sensor on the slate coloured wire just as it goes into the ecu with a resistor and the car worked as it should, so he replaced the fuel temperature sensor.

Its fantastic, it pulls harder starts better and the delay on the throttle is dramatically reduced.

He thinks that its something to do with reducing the toque in gear when its cold? Apparently at one point it thought the fuel was -15deg. I don't know, Im just over the moon about it.

Thanks for all your help! I really was lost, without you the car would now be on ebay in a thousand bits, minus the engine and ecu.
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Nice one, it would have shown up a lot sooner with decent diagnostics.
 
I'm glad you got it sorted , I know when the fuel is hotter its thinner and thicker when cold the ecu uses the temputure sensor in the fip along with other info to determine the correct amount of fuel, but as far as I'm aware,if the fuel temp sender fails it goes to a setting of - 5 degrees and the ecu and should still allow the engine to work at a pre set setting .
 
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