P38A A series of faults

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Moot point now even the desktop won't run, EAS Unlock keeps locking up before I even get to the point of plugging the cable in, rebooted the desktop only for it to refuse to restart due to all the fans not working.

I have sorely tempted to just take a match to the lot of it right now
 
Moot point now even the desktop won't run, EAS Unlock keeps locking up before I even get to the point of plugging the cable in, rebooted the desktop only for it to refuse to restart due to all the fans not working.

I have sorely tempted to just take a match to the lot of it right now
Sensor arm flipping is more a problem with the L322.have you checked the back of the obd socket for corrosion? Cut out the white connectors at the bottom of both A posts,
 
I have no more time to work on it now before getting on with moving which was this pile's sole purpose.

Probably going to scrap it once I have the move out of the way as I am done trying to get it working
 
I have no more time to work on it now before getting on with moving which was this pile's sole purpose.

Probably going to scrap it once I have the move out of the way as I am done trying to get it working
Scrap it? that would be a shame, if I were closer I would take it off your hands.
 
For EAS Unlock, it's better to connect the cable to the Laptop or PC before running the software. Windows needs a moment to enable the driver. Then when you run the software, make sure you select the correct COM Port.

Regarding the footwell connectors, height sensors, etc. start on the Left.
  • Left Footwell connections carry Height Switch & Diagnostic wires
  • Height Sensors connect direct to the ECU.
The right footwell connections do not go to the EAS ECU as far as I can tell, although there are several BECM wires in there such as door outstation, etc. However these would only impact the height change inhibit modes.

Message in the Instrument Display come from EAS ECU --> BECM --> Instruments so tend to indicate that wiring is ok.
 
Tried all sorts with the cable and got no where, the Desktop got very unhappy about being outside!

When the EAS Unlock OBD2 cable is connected to the car you get three bleeps (normal) and then it displays 'Do not exceed 35mph' It only displays that when the cable is connected, the rest of the time it doesn't say anything beyond complaining the key is in the ignition when you switch to position 0

I've had a complete sense of humour failure now with the blasted thing as I have sunk so much time into it to avoid doing what I have had to do today: hire a tow car. The main reason I bought the RR was to give me some time to do the move on my terms and not in one big rush, now I'm left with doing it in one big rush...using a Toyota Hilux...the complete antithesis to my fleet of rusty Land Rovers oh the irony
 
Tried all sorts with the cable and got no where, the Desktop got very unhappy about being outside!

When the EAS Unlock OBD2 cable is connected to the car you get three bleeps (normal) and then it displays 'Do not exceed 35mph' It only displays that when the cable is connected, the rest of the time it doesn't say anything beyond complaining the key is in the ignition when you switch to position 0

I've had a complete sense of humour failure now with the blasted thing as I have sunk so much time into it to avoid doing what I have had to do today: hire a tow car. The main reason I bought the RR was to give me some time to do the move on my terms and not in one big rush, now I'm left with doing it in one big rush...using a Toyota Hilux...the complete antithesis to my fleet of rusty Land Rovers oh the irony
The P38 is not a car, it's a hobby:rolleyes:
 
The EAS warning always happens when connecting diagnostics to the ECU. Same thing happens with EAS-Unlock or Nanocom. It's part of how the ECU works. The diagnostics triggers the Delay Relay to force ECU restart, after which the diagnostic software sends a special data sequence to put the ECU in diagnostic mode. This is what triggers the message on initial connect.

If the message happens when you physically connect the cable, before the software is running, then the cable is faulty.

What sequence are you following in Windows ????
  • Boot Windows
  • Connect USB cable to PC ( but NOT diagnostic socket yet.)
  • Check in Windows Device Manager that the cable is recognised, and using real FTDI drivers.
    • It will NOT work properly with generic Microsoft drivers.
    • Also check which COM port the USB Serial device is using.
    • In Com Port Properties, set the Baud Rate to 9600, 8 Bit & No Parity
  • Now connect the car diagnostic port.
    • There should not be any beeps or messages at this point.
  • Run EAS-Unlock
    • In setup menu make sure you select the correct Com port
    • Click Initialize and see if it connects & gives good idle data.
  • The 3 beeps & 35mph message should happen when EAS Unlock connects to the ECU.
 

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Oh joy, my new cable and the FTDI adapter are both cooked then. The error message and beeps now hapoend when the OBD2 cable is connected to the socket with nothing else attached :confused: yay

Could anything going on in the socket, rather than the cable cause this? Or for that matter anything going on damage the cable/FTDI adapter/OBD2 socket/EAS ECU :eek:

The P38 is not a car, it's a hobby:rolleyes:

It's a Sadist...
 
With Nanocom the beeps & message are definitely only when entering EAS diagnostic mode.

Update: Just tried EAS-Unlock cable using the OBD to 9-Pin-D, and it does not beep. Then tried adding the 9-pin-D to USB section, and no beeps. Then tried the two cables together, and then inserting into diagnostic port - no beeps.

Not sure if it's been asked further up this 450-post thread, but is the Delay Relay installed, or a generic relay ?
 
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Meanwhile my electrically minded chums are hatching plots to create a standalone EAS controller independent of the BECM and Drive Pack...I fully expect an argument to break out between them regarding the use of Ardiuno or a.n.other microcontroller :rolleyes:
 
Meanwhile my electrically minded chums are hatching plots to create a standalone EAS controller independent of the BECM and Drive Pack...I fully expect an argument to break out between them regarding the use of Ardiuno or a.n.other microcontroller :rolleyes:
Why? If your friends really want to have a go, tell them to read this site; https://www.nigelhewitt.co.uk/stuff/eas/index.html

The ECU is clearly functioning (most probably correctly), but you have something else wrong causing the height changes & failure to diagnose.
 
With Nanocom the beeps & message are definitely only when entering EAS diagnostic mode.

Update: Just tried EAS-Unlock cable using the OBD to 9-Pin-D, and it does not beep. Then tried adding the 9-pin-D to USB section, and no beeps. Then tried the two cables together, and then inserting into diagnostic port - no beeps.

Not sure if it's been asked further up this 450-post thread, but is the Delay Relay installed, or a generic relay ?
Not sure without checking, but I think as soo as the USB to serial adaptor is connected to the OBD port the beeps occu
Meanwhile my electrically minded chums are hatching plots to create a standalone EAS controller independent of the BECM and Drive Pack...I fully expect an argument to break out between them regarding the use of Ardiuno or a.n.other microcontroller :rolleyes:
Not difficult to make a basic air suspension controller, in fact you can buy them in the USA, but covering all the variations that the EAS ECU covers is a big task and IMO pointless as the system is reliable once sorted. In addition that sort of mod would need to be declared to your insurance company as it is a mod that could affect vehicle safety
 
Not sure without checking, but I think as soo as the USB to serial adaptor is connected to the OBD port the beeps occu
Keith,
Only checked the cable to OBD port in various combo's because that's what Slooby said he's doing. I wonder if having the laptop USB connected as well will make a difference ?

Pete
 
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