P38A A series of faults

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Slooby said:
The old ones simply fell out, as for the potting compound I've been trying to work out which one to buy as I've been getting no where with my nitrile cord.

Enjoy the film, it's not one of his that I've heard of!
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The RS electrical circuit board potting compound is good
 
tomcat59alan said:
Hope that includes the wrinkled stockings? Possibly smooth stockings and wrinkled legs.:eek::D
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I still love to watch reruns of The Last of the Summer Wine
Rubberknees said:
Now WE are talking:p:p:D
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This should really be in the Top Totty section but what the hell - lets live a little :p:p

103031.bin
 
kurtjohnson10 said:
I still love to watch reruns of The Last of the Summer Wine


This should really be in the Top Totty section but what the hell - lets live a little :p:p

103031.bin
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I've managed to get series 1 to 8 and some specials saved to my computer, often have a watch. Already arranged to have theme tune played at my funeral, hopefully not for a long while yet:D
 
Slooby said:
Couldn't find a potting compound that felt right to my understanding of the stuff and what it was going to be used for at a sane price, but did come up with this: https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/puraflex-40/
Single pack semi-flexible Polyurethane Sealant/Adhesive, and only smidge over fiver from Toolstation.
Will give it a go over the weekend I hope (child care duties permitting)
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I am sure the little one would give a hand with that sealant/adhesive i could be ever where but where you want it:D
 
Today, besides filling the EAS spring solenoid plunger ends with gloop, I've been pulling apart the NSF hub in an effort to get to a split CV gaiter, replace the track rod and lower ball joint.

As ever nothing is going according to plan.

I'll probably need to replace the drag link as the ball joint on the hub end didn't feel great, but of greater annoyance (read expense) the wheel bearing feels horrid! I've been trying to find a replacement guide but the Range Rovers.net one appears to be hidden from regular member view, everyone on YouTube just buys a complete hub, and when I look at the hub that I've removed I can't see the 'snap ring' everyone talks about. Anyone got a pictorial guide?
 
Evidently they can be a right pig and you need a big hydrolic press to do them
the hub to go for have the timken bearing you can get cheap ones but do you want to go at it again.
 
I don't have a full on press here, but do have a brute of a hydraulic gear puller which can be used as a press.
Timken have slipped a bit in the quality stakes recently, since they started shifting production sites around, I've been pondering PFI and looking to see if SKF have anyting
 
Slooby said:
Today, besides filling the EAS spring solenoid plunger ends with gloop, I've been pulling apart the NSF hub in an effort to get to a split CV gaiter, replace the track rod and lower ball joint.

As ever nothing is going according to plan.

I'll probably need to replace the drag link as the ball joint on the hub end didn't feel great, but of greater annoyance (read expense) the wheel bearing feels horrid! I've been trying to find a replacement guide but the Range Rovers.net one appears to be hidden from regular member view, everyone on YouTube just buys a complete hub, and when I look at the hub that I've removed I can't see the 'snap ring' everyone talks about. Anyone got a pictorial guide?
Click to expand...

You sure it isn't just the CV joint gone bad from running with no grease? I put a How To on changing the CV boot in the Technical Section. That gets you halfway.

For £200 you can get a whole new hub with Timken bearing from a place in/near Birmingham. Carparts4u? If you don't have the proper press I would go down that route.
 
Slooby said:
I don't have a full on press here, but do have a brute of a hydraulic gear puller which can be used as a press.
Timken have slipped a bit in the quality stakes recently, since they started shifting production sites around, I've been pondering PFI and looking to see if SKF have anyting
Click to expand...
When you remove the bearing carrier you can press the hub out of the bearing then remove the big circlip then press the bearing out. I did both of mine the first one only took about 20 tons pressure to get out, the other which had been bad for a while and must have run hot, took about 40 tons before it moved.We evaquated the garage as the pressure rose,there was one hell of a bang when it finally moved:eek::eek: I elongated the hole in the domed shield that the abs sensor fits through before I reassembled it so if it has to be stripped again the sensor can stay in place. I had to destroy one when I took it apart.;)
 
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