50 Shades Of Green
- Thread starter LaxfieldLandy
- Start date
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LaxfieldLandy
Active Member
- Posts
- 82
- Location
- Suffolk
Thanks! I’m really hoping that I don’t miss anything so that I don’t have to revisit it again in a couple of years!
ganthercage
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- 114
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- canada
Last edited:
LaxfieldLandy
Active Member
- Posts
- 82
- Location
- Suffolk
Over the last few days I’ve fully stripped all panels for painting. There are some bizarre design choices such the metal strip with welded studs that sit behind a little bent panel on the sides next to the front doors. One has sheared a stud so that’s a job for another day.
I’ve fully stripped the doors now (I’d replaced the bottom frame sections last year) quite a few areas of hidden rust!
The felt window guides were a pain to get out so will need new ones of those when I build back up.
The dented up rear corner has now been treated for a skim of filler and finally flat. The bottom of the panel sits in slightly but this will be pulled flat with the rest once I fix the chequer plate corner protectors.
I’ve also drilled any necessary holes in the wing tops for the chequer plate fixings (I did find a surprising amount of filler in the passenger wing top, hats off to whoever made that repair look invisible)
The rear drillings are for the classic badge and the fog and reverse lights.
I have a swing away carrier too but I’ll be measuring up and drilling for those fixings once I’ve got the rear door back on.
I took the front wings off, sprayed the bulkhead and internal wing face where they meet the bulkhead and then refitted the wings using YRM stainless fasteners. This way I have full coverage but don’t have the hassle of cracking paint as there is a fair bit of flex in the wings and would crack the paint on the joins if I were to bend the panel back into position upon refit.
I have also removed the entire dash, heating system, failed radiator and intercooler.
I’ve fully stripped the doors now (I’d replaced the bottom frame sections last year) quite a few areas of hidden rust!
The felt window guides were a pain to get out so will need new ones of those when I build back up.
The dented up rear corner has now been treated for a skim of filler and finally flat. The bottom of the panel sits in slightly but this will be pulled flat with the rest once I fix the chequer plate corner protectors.
I’ve also drilled any necessary holes in the wing tops for the chequer plate fixings (I did find a surprising amount of filler in the passenger wing top, hats off to whoever made that repair look invisible)
The rear drillings are for the classic badge and the fog and reverse lights.
I have a swing away carrier too but I’ll be measuring up and drilling for those fixings once I’ve got the rear door back on.
I took the front wings off, sprayed the bulkhead and internal wing face where they meet the bulkhead and then refitted the wings using YRM stainless fasteners. This way I have full coverage but don’t have the hassle of cracking paint as there is a fair bit of flex in the wings and would crack the paint on the joins if I were to bend the panel back into position upon refit.
I have also removed the entire dash, heating system, failed radiator and intercooler.
LaxfieldLandy
Active Member
- Posts
- 82
- Location
- Suffolk
It’s been a while but I’ve finally managed to get some time on the Landy.
I’ve had some interesting moments. While prepping the front wings for primer I realised that the passenger wing side remained curved rather than having the top and front curve and then going to vertically flat. I thought I’d try and straighten it and when I did it cracked!.. well the 15mm of filler did anyway!
I removed all the filler and straightened the wing out…
This has now been treated to a light skim of filler and prepped.
I also decided to block up the multiple aerial holes with fibreglass before skimming with filler…
The rear tub has now had a coat of epoxy primer. I started here as I was having previous issues with paint reactions so wanted to make sure that the tub (different paint to the rest) was ok before I primed all panels.
I’ve attacked the rather rusty door frames (see previous post) with a die grinder, DA, wire brush and other goodies including liberal quantities of Rust Converter. Now rust free and ready for primer. I’m not too worried about getting the door internals smooth as they will be covered in Lizardskin Sound Deadening spray and Cobra (polish Raptor).
I’ve also decided to buy 5 new Modular wheels as my current ones have some rust around the lip or stud holes. And I’ve also got 4 new Cooper Discoverer STT Pros as I’ll be swapping my only current STT Pro (the others are STTs) onto a new wheel and using as a rear mounted spare.
I’ve had some interesting moments. While prepping the front wings for primer I realised that the passenger wing side remained curved rather than having the top and front curve and then going to vertically flat. I thought I’d try and straighten it and when I did it cracked!.. well the 15mm of filler did anyway!
I removed all the filler and straightened the wing out…
This has now been treated to a light skim of filler and prepped.
I also decided to block up the multiple aerial holes with fibreglass before skimming with filler…
The rear tub has now had a coat of epoxy primer. I started here as I was having previous issues with paint reactions so wanted to make sure that the tub (different paint to the rest) was ok before I primed all panels.
I’ve attacked the rather rusty door frames (see previous post) with a die grinder, DA, wire brush and other goodies including liberal quantities of Rust Converter. Now rust free and ready for primer. I’m not too worried about getting the door internals smooth as they will be covered in Lizardskin Sound Deadening spray and Cobra (polish Raptor).
I’ve also decided to buy 5 new Modular wheels as my current ones have some rust around the lip or stud holes. And I’ve also got 4 new Cooper Discoverer STT Pros as I’ll be swapping my only current STT Pro (the others are STTs) onto a new wheel and using as a rear mounted spare.
LaxfieldLandy
Active Member
- Posts
- 82
- Location
- Suffolk
Todays bits so far…
move Tigersealed any parts on the tub that may contribute to water ingress, around the cappings etc (only the sides of the cappings so they can still breathe/drain.
I’ve also Tigersealed any gaps in the side panels and also stuck the door skins to their frames.
The rear door was previously dotted with rivets to hold the door skin to the frame. A fag packet was used to stop a rattle too .
I’ve drilled out the rivets, fibreglassed the holes and bonded the skin to the frame using Tigerseal.
Now for a beer in the sun while I wait for it all to dry.
move Tigersealed any parts on the tub that may contribute to water ingress, around the cappings etc (only the sides of the cappings so they can still breathe/drain.
I’ve also Tigersealed any gaps in the side panels and also stuck the door skins to their frames.
The rear door was previously dotted with rivets to hold the door skin to the frame. A fag packet was used to stop a rattle too .
I’ve drilled out the rivets, fibreglassed the holes and bonded the skin to the frame using Tigerseal.
Now for a beer in the sun while I wait for it all to dry.
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