4.6 Auto1998 cranks wont spark no fuel

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Yes that's the idea but mines giving One red flash which means EMS not waking up. Strangely it is a Thor and EDC code but def a GEMS sync mate. Not worth getting new lock to enter eka then? Is only thing I can think of except getting somebody with more upscale diagnostics to attempt re-sync. Do you know of anybody in the Fleet or Winchester area with decent diagnostics?
 
Not sure what you mean?

It is a Thor but you've got a Gems syncmate? If that's the case you need to get the right syncmate for your Thor engine.

Just so we're sure, Gems has a square plenum with 4.6 written on it, Thor has tubular plenum that looks like a bunch of bananas.

I don't think it's worth doing anything to the locks until you've got it on Diagnostics. You can buy a Nanocom for the price of a tow home.

Might be worth you getting one!
 
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Sorry using phone so messages probably are. It very clear. 1 flash is a sync mate Thor code. Engine is GEMS sync mate is GEMS but one red flash is in user guide as for Thor and diesel engines. I'm fairly sure you are right about immobiliser just can't get sync mate to communicate with my car
 
I'd switch off and go and have a coffee for 10 minutes.

Can you unlock with either of your fobs?

If you can, unlock with a fob and do a syncmate.
The receiver is above the drivers side back quarter light incase you need to get near it.


If you still get one flash, I think they might have hired you the wrong thing maybe? One flash is clearly a Motronic fault according to the user guide.

Where are you towing it home to? I have use of a Namocom but it's up at my brothers a long way from Fleet I'm afraid. There is a map on LandyZone showing where people are with diagnostics. You could ask for help there.
 
Thanks, am on way home in my golf now. Both fobs work little bit intermittently but work. Think sync mate may be faulty it is correct
 
One but flashes red once as you say this Is Thor fault. Vendor said should have g on sticker which it does. Will have to get it towed to Poole where I live or Swindon where parents are if no joy tomorrow
 
Going to get new multimeter and check old sensor readings and pins on OBD11 sensor tomorrow and attempt re-sync again. If this does not work am going to have to fork out for tow as work overseas contracting and expect I will have to go away soon so can't leave it where it is.
 
I really don't think it'd your ODBII socket. Never ever heard of that, and you said yourself it's only just been scanned. When you get your multimeter out, remember the Range Rover isn't ODBII compliant so don't necessarily expect to see signals where you would on an ODBII compliant car.

I know the timing isn't right, but a Nanocom is the same price as a Tow home (£345) and you'll definitely need it in the future...you might want to consider it. It'll be invaluable for your future ownership.

Lastly, make sure your battery is tip top charged before you start. Crappy batteries are the bane of Range Rovers, and it might be that the battery voltage is too low to allow the re-sync in the first place.

Let us know how you get on, you could be helping someone in the future.
 
THOR...
Sale_Blue_P38_Vreg_8.JPG


GEMS....
engine_bay.jpg
 
Yes mine is a GEMS engine. Pins all look good on back of OBD11 socket mounted in dash. Is there another socket further along the loom that suffers the corrosion? I think the fact the Sync mate has failed to communicate points to either faulty Sync mate, faulty OBD11 loom or connector or damaged BeCM. Have not checked fuse box underside yet. I see another person suffering exactly my symptoms after an engine swap.
 
To summarise at this point. Have new TPS and crank sensor fitted. Both key 1 and 2 lock and unlock doors using fob. Engine cranks but won't start. Sync mate failed to communicate with BeCM but OBD11 pins look good and successful scan few weeks ago as have invoice. No messages in instrument cluster display. Check engine light comes on most times but now even when it does not can crank engine.

Thanks to everybody who has helped do far.
 
The engine light comes on as a bulb check anyway so I wouldn't read anything in to that.

The fact that your fobs will unlock the car means that the immobiliser is happy and working as it should.

This is either BECM sync problems, or something else that we can't be sure of until we know you've re-synced your BECM.

Where's Rick The Pick when we need him....
 
Got this from RAVE might be worth changing as these are the parts not operating and maybe a non powered up ECU is preventing comms with BeCM thus preventing re-sync tool from working.

Main Relay

This relay supplies the power feed to the ECM
(Z132) with a tap off to feed the fuel injectors and air
flow meter. This relay is controlled by the ECM
(Z132) itself, so that the ECM (Z132) remains
powered up after the ignition is removed and the
ECM (Z132) can record all temperature readings and
motorise the Idle Air Control Valve (M112) to the fully
open position. This is known as the “ECM (Z132)
power down routine”. Failure of this relay will cause
the ECM (Z132) to not be switched on, resulting in
absence of fuel and spark and therefore a failed
start.

Any thoughts?
 
Engine check light did not come on on first day until after about 10 attempts when it started cranking and occasionally blinks then comes on after few seconds even now. Have seen somewhere else that it only comes on when a good immobiliser code has been received.

It definitely did not come every time with the rest on first attempts.
 
search for a thread (an epic thread at that - over 70 odd pages) by a guy called Neo2 - his post was called 'Cheesed Off, in need of help' or something like that...

he had major major issues with a non starting car....there maybe some further pointers in there..

And I concur with Gorsky - Wheres Rick when you need him...:D
 
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