4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

[jamesmartin]

dont want the gaps on all 3 rings in the same place

have a look at this if you havent a manual
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...iXH0bQJN32p-Imt_A&sig2=q8qDBA2qY3dc7dZoo7vdMw

 

[fett]

lol mark, I di tend to over think this , irrc you only gapped the top ring too right?

Thanks james, cant see a mention of it, I have plenty of manuals not (other than the lt95 ) but I cant seem to make sens of what its saying, doesnt help they are all so old they are harping on about the 3 peice oil control ring which I dont have

 

[discomark10]

The 3 piece is the 1 piece oil (thickest one) ring

 

[jamesmartin]

if the front of piston/center of gudgeon pin is 12 oclock oil ring gap at 11oclock and compression ring at 1 oclock ,the other compression ring at 6 oclock

 

[fett]

sweet cheers james, so oil ring at 11 and the comp ring at 1 are the ones next to each other

 

[jamesmartin]

on the same side and either side of gudgeon pin

 

[fett]

and the top comp ring at 6. got ya, thanks mate I will get on with it this week I hope

 

[listerdiesel]

Sorry I've been absent, lots of things going on at present.

In practice, the rings do move around the grooves, and whatever you set them to will change as the engine runs, but for initial starting it is best to space equally as suggested.

Two-strokes have pegged rings where there are ports in the cylinder wall and a loose ring end would end up jammed in the hole, but very few four-strokes ever had pegs, apart from some very early stuff.

Peter

 

[fett]

Ive worked on a lot more two strokes ( worked at an outboard repair place for a year), which explains my lack of experience on this motor with valves and the like and I was just thinking about the pegs last night and being annoyed LR dont have them- such a good idea!

 

[fett]

You know its been successful when you come in from the garage at 1.30am still smiling.

Pistons In At Last Photos by fett8 | Photobucket

All the pistons in, it all fitted lovely and its easier to turn the engine over with all 8 pistons in than it was before without any in on the 1st set of main shells.

Thanks for all the help guys, getting there now.

 

[fett]

So I take in no loctite on the head studs where they go in to the block then guys?

 

[jamesmartin]

So I take in no loctite on the head studs where they go in to the block then guys?

not on head studs, but all other internal bolts ,nuts in bottom end or front

 

[fett]

hang on, so you loctite the mains nuts? it said to use lubricant not loctite.

 

[jamesmartin]

hang on, so you loctite the mains nuts? it said to use lubricant not loctite.

i only use std ,and i loctite main bolts and conrod nuts ,cam bolt etc

 

[fett]

hang on, so loctite in main cap bolts? I thought the stndard way was to put oil on them?

 

[jamesmartin]

hang on, so loctite in main cap bolts? I thought the stndard way was to put oil on them?

originally it was lock wire ,then locking nuts etc, i suppose your special bolts are going for extra stretch

 

[fett]

yeah but for the std lr main bolts on a 3.5 for example, you are supposed to oil them no?

 

[jamesmartin]

yeah but for the std lr main bolts on a 3.5 for example, you are supposed to oil them no?

not were i learnt

 

[fett]

ffs lol, I thought we had this conversation where I said it was alien to me to put oil on things that need to stay done up! you said it was how they do it :doh:

 

[jamesmartin]

ffs lol, I thought we had this conversation where I said it was alien to me to put oil on things that need to stay done up! you said it was how they do it :doh:

must have misunderstood each other ,technically oil will help achieve exact torque in reallity you want it tight and not likely to undo